ok so For those of you that are cheap and poor.......like me
and plan on turboing your car are probably stuck on the idea of how to actually install the turbo. so you are decent at mechanics and you have a few freinds? well then you can do it in a weekend. well I have neither so Im trying to figure out the best way to put on the parts this is what I have so far.
mind you between each there will be daily driving.
I am working on the MS now
batterys in the trunk
when there done. I think Im going to install the intercooler with the plugs still in.
then work on the charge pipes. fab and install as many as I can as close to the turbo as I can get it
then Im going to try and get to a shop and get my 10 an welded in an have them put a cap on it so I can take it off and plug in the line.
same for the feed.
then I think Im going to have to bite the bullet and just do the rest in one sitting. my goal is to go from NA to boost in one weekend. what do you guys think? is there anything elese I can squezze out?
"
Kick azz is my boost hero!!! 
"
Its very do-able....but not exactly the best idea. You will find that you forgot a part, something might break, something won't fit...... I would say go for it, but try to line up a ride should something go wrong.
Boosted Eco @7psi for now....WRX come spring.....
make sure you have EVERY LAST FITTING......................... and everything should go fine ...... you willl need a welder..... at your house if you plan ondoing it in one weekend ..........
mine was a daily driver....... but I took the bus for 2 1/2 weeks.............. while we finished everything up .........
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
i thought i could do it all in a week... i rushed it and now for the last month ive been without a car.. take ur time.. dont rush things... its not worth it.. trust me
here comes the boost!
its not an art.... its a SCIENCE!!! always remember that
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
ahah scarab couldnt say it better... althought i think is does have some art in it ahaah
mine has taken 2+weeks now... all custom and put togeather by me.. the pipes made up by me, a jiffy marker and a hack saw... man does it take a long time to cut perfectly straight in aluminized steel....
but yes take your time, make sure things are all good and that you didnt forget any thing at all... and if your like me and know your greedy with a boost controler, take a minute when you get your oil pan off and have one last chat with your internals and pray that the next time you see them, they are still in once peice..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
yeah see i got mine done all fabbed up totally custom at a shop with any tool you would need and a mig welder along with extra fittings and bolts and what not. So yeah take your time you'll be happier when its all done and it will save you some hassle later.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Don't forget the little things. Like deburring all the pipe ends because metal shards are murder on a turbo. Silicon pipe fittings. All the vacuum lines, oil and fuel lines and fittings, all of that. The exhaust manifold and the turbo itself would be good to have before you bend up all the charge pipes. A good tuneup. Plugs, fuel filter, plug wires, all of that should be in good order before adding so much as a pound of boost. Mounting the intercooler and all of that is no biggie, ou said you're going to leave the caps on, so it should be ok.
Opfer benotigt. Keine Erfahrung notwendig.
Victims needed. No experience necessary.
the best thing i could suggest if u are doing this at home and tools are limited get a lot of mandrel bends (aluminum) like from vibrant much lighter and easier to cut through put all the pipes together with sleeves and reducers again from vibrant. this set up is very strong once its all tighten up and another helpful idea that we use at my shop when drilling and tapping the oil pan the best and easiest way (j-body 2.4) assuming u have the right bit ,tap and fitting ready to go and the oil cap is off and the front of the car is on ramps or stands is to leave the pan on the car with the oil in it and drill the hole as high as possible on the pan its a little rodeo because u can't take your time once u start to drill through your committed the oil will start to leak out of the hole and the leak will turn into a gush so be ready with a pan and don't spine the drill to fast but as the oil comes out it will wash out any aluminum that might be getting into the motor and trust me the oil comes out fast enough that there is no chance next tap your threads than jack the car up a little higher so the oil runs out of the hole and washes out the aluminum and than drain the rest of the oil and your good to go the whole thing can be done in around 30min saving u lots of down time.
^ Personally I wouldn't do that, with the oil pan. When we drilled and tapped my pan, there were shavings everywhere that took quite a bit of wiping to get out. The oil makes them stick to the sides of the pan, until the pump starts up and sucks them up. Its worth the extra couple hours to pull the pan off, its really not that difficult, and tap it the correct way.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
thats what u would assume but when u see how the oil comes out u will understand there is no way the aluminum is going to fight the current its like a garden hose
Why would you wanna drill a hole and have the oil pouring out of it?That makes no sense to me.For one,you will probably ruin the drill by getting oil in it,and your gonna have oil running down your arms while your drilling.And how about when you tap it?Your still gonna get metal shavings in the pan.Just do it right and drop the pan.Why would you wanna half azz it?If your gonna do it,do it right.
When i put my turbo in,im gonna do alittle bit here and there before the turbo goes on.Im gonna remove the pan,tap it,and put a cap on the fitting for when i install the turbo.Then im gonna mount the intercooler,and run the pipes up into the engine bay.This way i can still drive the car,and alot of the work will be done already.With all that done,you should have no problem getting the turbo installed in one weekend.
Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust
dont worry guys. Im having a shop tap my pan then caping it off so I can just screw it on.
"
Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
Jcavi wrote:dont worry guys. Im having a shop tap my pan then caping it off so I can just screw it on.
WHy get a shop ????
it HONESTLY took me 15 minutes to get the pan off..... another 15 minutes to clean off the oil gasket and have a chat with my bottom end...............
and another 15 minutes to put it back on .....
Pics..............
OOOOOOOOO.....AAAAAAAAAAAAA.....>EEEEEEEEEEE
so hard eh !!!
haha I had a hoist and air tools but still .... NOT HARD AT ALL.......
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Lee, the oil pan on a 2.2 is a JOKE... it's so simple. On an LD9 it's A LOT harder to get off...way more ish to remove.
I don't know about an ecotec... but do take the pan off to drill, tap and weld your fitting.
You can cap it right afterward and reinstall.
I did things in steps... first I did all the fuel, (injectors, FMU, S-AFC) and tested... then I installed the MSD and tested it... then I installed all the gauges and tested... then installed the IC and the rest was all done in one shot, though the piping took a few weeks... (TIG Welded, powdercoated, + downpipe with custom flange)
At any rate, yes do it in steps if you'd like BUT please remove the pan to drill & tap.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
I agree. Never cut corners when it comes to boosting your car.
If you're planning to boost a daily driver, it's much easier to do it in steps. When I turbo'd my last car, I started by getting all of the tune-up stuff out of the way first.
When I did my oil return, I bought a second oil pan to drill the return into just to be on the safe side incase I messed anything up. Once that was done, it took me about half an hour to drop the old pan and put on the new one. Unfortunatly I didn't think far enough ahead to get a plug, so I got creative with my Dremel tool, a hockey puck and some hose clamp. That's all I did that weekend.
Next weekend, I did my new wires and a coolant flush while I put my stainless coolant feed and return lines for the turbo on. I did an engine shampoo afterwards on the same weekend.
Next weekend I did my oil feed line, oil pressure gauge, vacuum manifold, and boost gauge.
Next weekend I did my Walboro fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and under-hood fuel pressure gauge.
Next weekend, I did my injectors, wiring harness, evap eliminate, resistor box, converted to OBD 1, and computer management.
Next weekend, I did a test fit of the turbo, and fit and cut all the pipes.
The next weekend I installed the turbo, the fresh cut charge pipes, and the new 2.5" exhaust system.
There was alot of little things I did in between, like hunting for fittings, cleaning rust off of things, test fits, internet searches, moulding a custom pod in my dash for my AVC-R (digital boost controller), but you get the point. If you want it to turn out good, take your time and plan everything. Get little things out of the way on the weekends prior to the turbo installation. I've got lots of pictures here (and I've got way more if you ask):
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1178023
_________________________________________________________________
Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. 
1997 Pontiac Sunfire SE 2-door
I love people who drill the pan with it on the car...... exp. on the LD9...... just ask WrenchMonkey..... his was already turboed when he bought it, but we pulled the pan off, and found a snapped off drill bit IN THE BALANCE SHAFT HOUSING...... seems they drilled to deep, and broke the drill bit off inside the housing..... awsome.
NEVER drill the oil pan with it on the car. NEVER.
JCavi...... you shouldnt have a problem. But just like playing chess, always think 3-4 moves ahead...... that way you dont put something together, only to have to pull it apart for the next step.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
1)does the actual turbo suck the oil on it's own?
2) can i install my turbo without hooking up the charge pipes and get my exaust built the same day?
3)is it bad for the turbo to be spooling without charging the engine? and will it just flow out the down pipe?
I'm boosting my daily driver too. and planing on installing the turbo and building the exaust on a weekend seeing that i already have the charge pipes made.
just posted this here cause i have already a drilled pan so i just swap it in and this guy should take it off and do it right.
The oil pressure from the engine feeds the oil to the turbo. It shouldn't be installed without the charge pipes because the turbo will over-spool and destroy the bearing.
_________________________________________________________________
Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire SE 2-door
