what would happen if i pulled my LD9 with the supercharger, and dropped in a LD9 stock... would the computer kill the engine cuz it would be looking for boost and all that? or would it work?

I want to pull my engine to begin a build on it... i have access to a relatively cheap high milage complete mid 90's 2.4. i dont want to build that one, but figure i could drop it in and keep drivin my car and take my time to build my engine the way i like it.

I just didnt know what headaches i would have running an older N/A engine in place of my newer SC'ed engine.

I figure it is either something like this.... or go and buy a beater car to drive in the mean time...


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

just take it to the dealer and they will return the comp to stock, thne redo it again when the new engine is ready to go in

they going to charge me for that? i know you get a re-flash with the kit... but i doubt you get free-refils.

where is the computer? could i just swap the computer out too? leave the SC computer with the SC engine... and keep the older N/A computer with the older engine...


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

My computer is by the right side fender in my 00 Z

I was going to suggest just swapping the computer also

I highly doubt the Dealer will do anything for free

Personally the easier way (which is what i did) was keep your car the way it is... get a blown/high milage engine and rebuild it... i got 1 soon to be 2 spare engines sitting here if your interested.. PM.. one is torn apart kind of and the other one which i will be pulling out of a car in a week or so has 184,00kms on it with a spun bearing i believe...



The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno

ken soggs wrote:what would happen if i pulled my LD9 with the supercharger, and dropped in a LD9 stock... would the computer kill the engine cuz it would be looking for boost and all that? or would it work?

I want to pull my engine to begin a build on it... i have access to a relatively cheap high milage complete mid 90's 2.4. i dont want to build that one, but figure i could drop it in and keep drivin my car and take my time to build my engine the way i like it.

I just didnt know what headaches i would have running an older N/A engine in place of my newer SC'ed engine.

I figure it is either something like this.... or go and buy a beater car to drive in the mean time...

I'm guessing since your car is a 2002 you have the reflash. It'll be just fine without boost. When you drive the car around, it's not boosting 100% of the time you're driving. The computer runs the engine just fine when it's out of boost, and when you put your foot into it, and it sees boost, it'll compensate with fuel and timing. If it doesn't see boost, it won't compensate with fuel and timing, it'll just run like normal. You'll just need to swap over the injectors and 2 BAR MAP sensor to the engine going in.


_________________________________________
450WHP Turbo Ecotec swap in the works...

what spilner said is true,

i got my car running on the gm s/c program but still has the 2 bar and 310's in it and it runs just fine besides for my o ring for cyl #3 injector messing up just recently and shooting fuel everywhere

with out the blower it will run fine.....get good milage and you can use 87.


it will be fine, dont reflash it.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

Quote:

i have access to a relatively cheap high milage complete mid 90's 2.4.

What year exactly? 96 is the start of the 2.4. If it was me and youcan get a 2.4 I would keep the car running as is and build another motor then swapout. Yes you can run the GM reflash on a N/A motor, but it will not perform to it's best, but will be plenty driveable.



FU Tuning

John Higgins wrote:

Quote:

i have access to a relatively cheap high milage complete mid 90's 2.4.

What year exactly? 96 is the start of the 2.4. If it was me and youcan get a 2.4 I would keep the car running as is and build another motor then swapout. Yes you can run the GM reflash on a N/A motor, but it will not perform to it's best, but will be plenty driveable.

I thought about that plenty.... but the thing is it is pretty hard to find one of these cheaply... and i would really like to keep the newer 00-02 engine for the build. no real reason for it... i know they are all the same (short of a few differences)... but i just dont feel right putting a 96 engine in a 2002 car... I dont mind it for temporary purposes. but if it is going to be in my car for life, and going to be built up and all, i would just feel better if it was a newer block.

and buying a "bad" motor kinda scares me.... like what if whatever made it "bad" also damaged the block, or the head... and how badly was it abused or neglected to make it "go bad"....

But yes, if i could find a good engine that just needed some work.... i would definately do the build on that. and swap later... it is just overcoming my fear of a "old bad engine"


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

So your car motor in your car currently is knocking? I have about 3 2.4's 2 00+ and 1 97 that would be great for rebuilds.



FU Tuning

John Higgins wrote:So your car motor in your car currently is knocking? I have about 3 2.4's 2 00+ and 1 97 that would be great for rebuilds.

really?? that would be great news if you werent 3000 miles away.... but i dont think shipping, or the cost of gas would be worth it to transport a bad engine from florida to ohio.... even if the engine itself was free.

but thanks for the thought. If only someone in ohio had the same thing....

and it isnt "knocking" yet.... it is just a mild tick at this point.... but sounds like the early stages of a knock. thought it was valves or cam lobe actually..... but the way it acts makes me think it is very mild knock.


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

hey guys... new information that was brought to my attention... please read my last post in the thread below....

let me know what you think.... wrist pin or rod bearings....

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=147133&t=147133


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

ok i may have a lead on a "nearly free" 2.4L engine from a 99 grand am... it has 110k on it, but supposedly runs like a top.

I was thinking i could drop this engine into my Z24, as is... then begin work on my own engine, and build it up as i would like.

I just wanted to make sure this would be reasonable....


if i am going to keep this engine normally aspirated.... i shouldn't have to change out injectors, or starters, or anything should i?
I should just be able to drop the complete engine right in, right?

can i move the computer too? or will a 99 computer from a grand am not work with my 02 cavy.

do i need to mess with EGR and that stuff on a 99? or can that stay as is?

I am about to seal the deal on this engine, and need to make sure it is worth doing.

(basically this engine is just buying me time to work on my own engine and supercharger, while still driving my own car.)


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

use your injectors from your car. then there is no @!#$ around. swap the motor and presto, it runs.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

so dont even touch the computer or egr? leave my computer in the car, transplant my injectors into the new engine, and go?

nothing else needed?


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

correct

f* the egr, unless you have one already.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

i dont have an EGR.... and dont want one...

but i dont have to remove it and block it off or anything?



my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

what about mounts and boltups?
motor mounts are all the same?
wiring should all just plug in the same?
everything should fit?



my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)

ok, just did the spark-removal test.....

when i cut the spark to cylinder 3 (if you count from the passenger side to the driver side) my noise goes away.

Acording to the guy who told me about this test.... that means it is a wristpin.

but in talking to other people about this.... someone else told me "yeah that is the old test to determine where a rod knock is located"

I for one say that it should test equally for both.... i mean it is the same rod, different ends of it... the whole rod is under the same force... shouldnt matter which end of the rod is making the noise.

I have just had alot of people tell me that a wrist pin is more of a tick or a clank, higher pitched, and sounds like it is coming from the valve area.... where a bad rod bearing would cause a rod knock, which is lower pitched and comes from lower in the block.

mine sounds like a tick from the valve area. with the IDI cover off it is even more noticable.

I would LOVE this to just be a rod bearing.... but i fear it is the wrist pin... let me know what you guys think.


my poor baby is sick... someone help me...
(2.4L engine in my cavy is ticking bad... need to make it stop)