ok so im told that this is not practical for street use.. that it will be like im in neutral untill the rpms reach 2800 and then the power will be transfered to the wheels and actually make the car go...is this true
I was under that impression for the longest time, but i think it just means you can brake tq up to that rpm and the car won't move. Basically you can preload up to the point.
thats what i thought but a guy my friend talked to to install it for me said otherwise
well anyways... i have a 2800 stall Yank torque converter that im gonna be putting in here soon so im hoping that it all works out
good luck matt
I'll have a sig someday....................
yeah because right now your car has like a 2100rpm stall and it moves before you hit 2100rpms.
are 700 rpms or so extra really worth it? does it really make THAT big of a difference?
The Other Matt wrote:are 700 rpms or so extra really worth it? does it really make THAT big of a difference?
The higher you can rev, the closer you are to your powerband when you launch and that will also held bring back some of your drivetrain loss.
A 2800 stall converter IS daily driveable.
It's good to help knock your times down a tad bit but that's about it.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
ive had it installed on my car now for a while and i had a stall of 2400 before and now its at 2900 and yes it makes a big difference mainly at the track and it is very streetable i cant tell the difference. before my engien blew i actually had traction issues launching at 2900 rpms and all i have done is whats in my reg. definitely well worth it
The one, the only, ME.
talk to dragracemyz24. i belive he has one. or had one. i know he was having problems with it slipping.
13 psi and climbing......
2800 is very mild for a converter. Actually, it is perfect for someone that wants more edge, but not all out drag racing with slicks. That is why it was picked to be 2800. That is a nice number for the majority of the FWD crowd wants.
I had the modded 3500 stall version in my car with Falkens. The tires would wear out slightly faster as you could imagine. Burn outs were easier after the swap and the car pulled like crazy in the low range. It was nice for a street light to street light mod. That is where you will notice it the most.
MPG didn't have a bad decrease. Obviously, the 2800 is much better for most people. There is almost no MPG loss and you can maintain traction on ice and snow just like stock. I had no problems with the 3500 on ice. It is just that you have to use the pedal slightly more.
Please just go drive a car with a high stall converter in it. I always dread geting back into a factory automatic vehicle.
Here is a pic of my car on their pic. Look for the yellow car on the link:
http://www.converter.cc/customercars/customer.htm
Here is a pic of my new ride:
I know brake torquing is supposed to make you launch better, but when I do that it seems to take longer to accelerate than when I go from an idle. Am I not doing this right or what?
thevilliagemon wrote:I know brake torquing is supposed to make you launch better, but when I do that it seems to take longer to accelerate than when I go from an idle. Am I not doing this right or what?
That's more than likely because your traction control is coming on. You have a sunfire so you should be able to turn it off.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:thevilliagemon wrote:I know brake torquing is supposed to make you launch better, but when I do that it seems to take longer to accelerate than when I go from an idle. Am I not doing this right or what?
That's more than likely because your traction control is coming on. You have a sunfire so you should be able to turn it off.
and if you have a cavalier ... 1 click up on the ebrake handle will turn it off and shouldnt apply any pressure to the brakes
well i have the converter being shipped to me as we speak cause i had bought one before i made this post so ill just have to put it on and see
thank you for all of the info...every question i had was answered
I have TCS? Didn't even know it was equipped with such a thing. So how do I know if I really have it or not?
all autos have torque converters....these are just higher stall torque converters
Matt...does your "Brake" light still come on though? Just trying to see if I have it or not and/or how to dissable it.
oh ya the brake light comes on when you pull on the ebrake...also...ETS OFF light will come on when the traction is turned off
Thanks Matt...guess I don't have that then. Never got the ETS OFF light.
Maybe i'm special but i can break torque to about 2800rpm with my stock converter.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
You have a lot of mods and that would make your converter stall higher.
I don't think that your stock TC should stall that high even with the mods. How much HP?
It is possible for your TC to be a factory freak. GM standards call for 15 - 1000'ths of a inch error in the welding. Most aftermarket TC's are 3 times more accurate. So, if the converter had more play than the average converter and you throw the mods on top it is possible to get a higher stall. No factory builds products to the exact same specs everytime.
ya i can brake tourque my factory one up to about 2800 no problem... except that i cant get any traction from launching that high
