Ok I have a 2001 Z24 manual. We put a Spec Stage 2 clutch and a Fidianza flywheel in ( a few months ago). Also a Team green LSD (I'm sure this has nothing to do with my issue). Car has been really good. Clutch is great!!! Well lastnight I was coming home from work (a little later than normal), and was not having a great day. Sitting in front of my house waiting to turn. I have the clutch pushed in and in 1 gear. I decided to rev the car. I reved the crap out of it. Well it was trying to crab (the clutch that is). You feel nothing at idle, but when reving it will trying to move the car a little. I let the clutch out and pushed it back in and did it again. I made sure the pedal was on the floor(it was), still doing it. I pulled in and parked the car went in for the night. Today I drive the car all is well, no signs of anything. I decided to try this again and still does it. I checked the fluid for the clutch all is good. I did a gravity feed on it as well. Clutch still feels the same as it did, and still does it. Has anyone had this happen? I have thought it could be a sign of a bad Clutch master cly??? Also a friend (who helped install the parts) said it could be the affects from reving pushing against the springs of the pressure plate and allowing the clutch to start to dis-engage. Please any thoughts, or if you have had this problem.
FU Tuning
i just put in a spec stage 2 clutch and a spec flywheel, and mine does the same thing. im sitting in 1st gear with the clutch push in all the way and if i rev the engine the car will start to roll forward....(With the clutch pushed in the car will still try to move a little!!!)
I have no idea what it might be, hopefully someone helps out
Thats odd.........once the weather warms up and I get my spec and aluminum fly in....I let you know if I have similar problems....(crosses fingers)...... did you replace the clutch master when you put in the new clutch?
are you on a hill?
I want to share something with you - the three sentences that will get you through life. Number one, 'cover for me', Number two, 'oh, good idea, boss', Number three, 'it was like that when I got here.'
Myles wrote:are you on a hill?
I thought this the first few times it happened, and didnt think anything of it. but then i noticed it when i knew i was on even ground.
Jucie n' Boost (jucie pushrods wrote:Thats odd.........once the weather warms up and I get my spec and aluminum fly in....I let you know if I have similar problems....(crosses fingers)...... did you replace the clutch master when you put in the new clutch?
No.. i didnt replace my clutch master cyclinder, the more and more i read about it, the more it points toward this being a problem.
since my trans swap(same time as the spec clutch and flywheel) my trans has never shifted right, when i go to shift its really hard. it never grinds but its just really hard to shift, most of the time i have to rev the engine just to get it to go into gear. Its just like when your trying to shift without using the clutch and you have to rev match the gears for it to shift.
A update. I have put in another clutch master cly (not brand new, but only 3k on it), still does it. I tested another J with a spec stage 2 (but stock flywheel and a isuzu tranny) it does not do it. I'm also not on a hill either.
FU Tuning
Magik1109 wrote:maybe its the slave....
Yeah could be. It is brand new (well brand new with the clutch install).
FU Tuning
i used the spec one that came with the clutch
Liquidplamsa wrote:i used the spec one that came with the clutch
I did as well (which is nothing more than a GM OEM one). They also cost about $300 brand new.
FU Tuning
Huh. yea. i have (had) a spec stage two in mine along with the fidanza flywheel, and i relized it was way hard to shift and all the shifting issues would come back to it not fully diseangaging. when i installed it i put a new pre bled master and slave assymbly from gm. I put a stock 2.8 clutch in it from advance that was $72 with a discount. And wow, its soooo much more drivable than the spec 2, like big differance!! and it shifter so nice, like it should (as easy as u sitting with the engine off.) i looked at the clutch dics and the outside endges seemed to have the most ware. So moral of my story, Im not to happy wit spec. i should try a slave maybe, i would home its not that cuz its like bran new.
I do not think it is the clutch it' self. This thing has plenty of grip. I love it. Also it was good at first as well. Took it to the track. it seemed to change after about 2k on it. That makes me think TOB/slave, or master cly. I'm going to re-bleed it today and see.
FU Tuning
my experiences with the spec stage II and flywheel..personally mine messed up on my 01..i had to switch back to stock from the dealership too...that was another 2400$ down the craphole.....but yeah i dont even have 20,000 on my whole new system from GM.....runs very nice..the next time im doing a clutch though is im going with Clutch Masters....im not doing another aftermarket flywheel either...im just going to resurface the stock...
HP wins money...torque whens races...
I had the same problem with my stage 3 when it was installed. We put the car up on stands and the wheels would turn no matter where I had the clutch. Took a couple revolutions around the block before I could even shift without turning the thing off. After that, it must have worn down enough to disengage.
But now my clutch is toast. This is the third Spec stage 3 I've had problems with. My next clutch is a Bully stage 4, @!#$ Spec, I'll never buy thier products again.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
This seems like it's a problem with pre-Eco cars, or maybe some issues with the Eco as well? I'm getting a little leery about putting a Spec in my 04... The stock clutch is still grabbing fine, but getting a little higher and higher on the pedal, also some chatter.
Dan Trump
2004 Cavalier LS Sport 5M - 27K
dont freek, this is a problem with jbodys, GM has bulitens on this, it says to replace the master and the slave, i did that, (just the master) but it still is ...weard... diffrent release points and sometimes it feels like rons used to.....
im loosing fath in spec though....
PM me and ill send ya the PN's
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
I'm wondering how everyone bleds the clutch. That's what the problem sounds like to me.
Sunfires... eh (Tom) wrote:I'm wondering how everyone bleds the clutch. That's what the problem sounds like to me.
What do you mean exactly? I'm starting to think the GM factory TOB can not hold up to the aftermarket pressure plates.
FU Tuning
no, there is a bulletin on this for stock f23's
its called clutch bleed down. the new master is suposed to get rid of this, BUT i did it to mine and it still does it (only in really cold weather)
PN
master 24233064
slave 22602575
also there is some weard tool to bleed this..... i dont know how it works though
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Taetsch Z24 wrote:no, there is a bulletin on this for stock f23's
its called clutch bleed down. the new master is suposed to get rid of this, BUT i did it to mine and it still does it (only in really cold weather)
PN
master 24233064
slave 22602575
also there is some weard tool to bleed this..... i dont know how it works though
Chris
I have also replace the master cly as well. I'm curious as to the special tool. I have rebleed the clutch but it does not help. It was good for a good 2000-3000 miles.
FU Tuning
it talks about reverse bleading.... WTF? idn pump the @!#$ out of it and see what it does,
i hope mine dosent end up like rons......... but like i said, it only really goes when its cold.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Saab hydraulic clutch systems are the same as j's. We pre-bleed the tob with the transmission out of the car with a vacuum pump. It basically gets out all of the air in the fluid before the bleeder valve.
Also the gm way to do it is to vacuum bleed it from the resevoir.
Sunfires... eh (Tom) wrote:Saab hydraulic clutch systems are the same as j's. We pre-bleed the tob with the transmission out of the car with a vacuum pump. It basically gets out all of the air in the fluid before the bleeder valve.
Also the gm way to do it is to vacuum bleed it from the resevoir.
Well we have bleed my clutch using one of those vacuum pumps you can get from Advance Auto. Did not make a difference. how you you hook up a vacuum pump to the TOB?
FU Tuning
