does anyone have a link to a thread that will basically walk me through removing my trans? its an 04 2.2l ecotec 5 spd manual
if it was the 2.4 5 spd manual i would because i have taken it out four times now... but i dont know if there is a big difference or little difference in them sorry.
Alldatadiy.com they can. You have to pay but its well well well worth it. Its as good as a GM tech manual.
I know DaFlyinSkwirl did a write up on this. I followed the procedure on my car (LN2) and it worked.
Basically:
Jack the front corners up, put it on jackstands, I got my car about 16" off the ground.
Take off the tires, I dont remember if you need to remove the brakes to get at the axle nuts (i dont think you do). Remove the axle nuts (30mm socket i believe).
You can either disconnect the strut from the steering knuckle, or drop the whole strut assembly from the tower (unbolt the strut mount, which makes it less necessary to get an alignment after the job is done).
Pull the axles out of the wheel bearings, I has to tap on mine a bit because they were stuck (rethread the nut on if you need to so you dont mess up the threads, but don't hit it too hard, you can screw up the bearings). Then pull the axles out of the differential, they "pop" out, I used a small pry bar to pop them out, so i didn't put stress on the CV joints.
This gets the axles out of the way.
Next:
there is a bar connected from the radiator support to the subframe on the drivers side. Remove the bar (2 bolts).
then (i dont think i needed to but an eco might require this) cut the "ear" on the end of the subframe. Basically the front of the subframe (where you disconnected the support bar) looks like this "<", you want to chop the little ear off (ending the subframe just past the bolt hole), make it flush. There are probably pics floating around about this... describing it isn't easy.
Disconnect everything from the trans (clutch, shift cables, wiring harness).
Put a jack under the trans, disconnect all the bellhousing bolts and the front and rear mounts (recommend 2 people for this and next steps). Theres a few bellhousing bolts that arent easy to spot, so if you cant get the trans seperated, you missed one, you wont need to force it apart at all when its fully disconnected.
seperate the trans from the motor and youll need to rotate the differential upwards and it work it so it falls out the bottom in the hole you made for it. (at this point I let it just fall to the ground, because i was replacing it anyhow.)
Installation is the reverse of removal, but it is HARD to do if you're alone (trust me). Just make sure you line up the input shaft correctly when you get it back together. I rotated the motor with the trans in gear just to make sure it was all gravy before i tightened the bellhousing and reinstalled the mounts.
Currently i could do it in probably 2-3hours, but my first shot (working slowly so i didn't mess it up) took i think 6 or so hours working alone.
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Thats a pretty simplistic explanation, and takes into account you know you're way around a car, and what I'm taking about. Alldata.com would be a great help, i lost my haynes manual but im sure that has some pointers as well.
Heck, it was like 10 degrees out when i did this, and i was sick and needed the car for work the next day, and i pulled it off. lol I'm sure you'll be fine.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
Ok thanks matt, ill be back on here im sure if i have any questions!!!
Ok thanks matt, im sure ill be back on here if i have any questions
No problem, PM me though if you need anything, itll be a faster reply as i just remembered to check this thread now.
Good luck!
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
Take off the tires, I dont remember if you need to remove the brakes to get at the axle nuts (i dont think you do). Remove the axle nuts (30mm socket i believe). - if u put a screw driver in a vent hole of the brake disk next to the caliper itl hold the hub in place so the axle retaining nut can be removed
seperate the trans from the motor and youll need to rotate the differential upwards and it work it so it falls out the bottom in the hole you made for it. (at this point I let it just fall to the ground, because i was replacing it anyhow.) -
youl need to lower the engine on an angle to remove it properly
also while your in there remove the cluch & fly wheel and check your rear main seal to see if its leaking
Disconnect everything from the trans (clutch, shift cables, wiring harness). - the clutch is attached to the flywheel which is attached to the crank only the slave cylinder is attached to the tranny
dont over fill your tranny with fluid itl cause your drive shaft seals to wear out and your tranny will leak
and buy a haynes or chilton manual for torque specs
and also drain your tranny before you pop your axles if you use a 1"1/4 wrench itl cupple the axle and allow you to pry it out
and it can be done alone easily invest in an engine crane youl want one for this
if it start the next day it can be driven harder
