I want to do this to my car, and can only find mixed / improper information.
I found 87-89 W and L bodies, 96-97 J bodies had this option with the 5 speed trans.
I cant find any parts anywhere for this.
Is it only possible with used junk yard parts?
I want to buy all new if possible.
Can anyone point me to some part numbers or web sites that have
the inner shaft, housing (if needed depending on year), bearing, mounting block, and outter axle????
Any help would be great.
I already know that I have to modify the mounting block.
The entire jackshaft can usually be had at a junkyard, really the only "new" thing you can get is the bearing and seal... both available from napa... you will need to have them cross reference the old bearing number and the seal is the same as any other output shaft seal on any of the cav's.
Your a 2200 right? If you get the parts I can duplicate my setup and powdercoat it.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Can I get the shaft new from GM?
Also what years and models had it?
The yards around me cost money to get into, so I would need to know if they have the car im looking for before I go in and waste money.
I believe the shaft is discontinued.
95-96 Z24's had it, probably the same for the 2.2ohvs. (I forget what axle goes with it? Right side Auto axle? or two Left side Manual axles?)
I have one in my garage from a '95 Z24, and I think I saw a couple in my local yard the last time out.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
LF passenger axle will be the same as the RF if it has the intermediate shaft
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Anyone willing to get the axle, bracket, and seal?
I will pay top dollar for your troubles!
PM me please!!!
Roofy wrote:LF passenger axle will be the same as the RF if it has the intermediate shaft
Actually the right front becomes a stock Auto axle and the left stays the same manual.
The jack shaft makes the inboard joint female.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
GM part #'s
Shaft Assy, Intermediate - PN 26034381
Bearing Shaft - PN 26016069
Ring, Retainer - PN 7829495
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
I never could understand why some people made a big deal out of the jack shaft. I had one on my 89 Beretta. That car still torque steered when laying into it and it was a pain getting that right side axle off the jack shaft when it came time to change clutches. The last straw was when the jack shaft support bracket broke off the block.
Many front drivers out there with a long right side axle including Cobalts and Neon SRT4's.
Both of my stick shifted Grand Ams use the long axle on the right with no problems.
Blwn LD9 wrote:GM part #'s
Shaft Assy, Intermediate - PN 26034381
Bearing Shaft - PN 26016069
Ring, Retainer - PN 7829495
I just searched these, and only got the "Ring, Retainer"
Are you sure the "Shaft Assy, Intermediate" and the "Bearing Shaft" are correct.
Where did you source these part numbers from.
Thanks
Lee Josephs wrote:I never could understand why some people made a big deal out of the jack shaft. I had one on my 89 Beretta. That car still torque steered when laying into it and it was a pain getting that right side axle off the jack shaft when it came time to change clutches. The last straw was when the jack shaft support bracket broke off the block.
Many front drivers out there with a long right side axle including Cobalts and Neon SRT4's.
Both of my stick shifted Grand Ams use the long axle on the right with no problems.
I was auto previously so I can't say if the torque steer is reduced or not... but I did it for another reason also... I only need to keep one axle as a spare for the track if I ever break one or one goes bad on the street. Having that option is big for me. Not to mention a long axle is more susceptible to breaking than a short one.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Thought someone above just said that it makes the right axle an auto axle, not the same as the left axle?
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
The driver side axle is "male" on the transmission side.
The jack shaft is "male" on the transmission side, and "male" on the passenger axle side.
The passenger axle is "female" where it connects to the jack shaft.
Both axles should still be different, but close to equal length.
SpeedRacerZ wrote:Thought someone above just said that it makes the right axle an auto axle, not the same as the left axle?
It does, but the only difference between auto and manual is the inboard tripod cup, therefore, If I ever broke an axle all I would have to do is install the proper inboard tripod cup (whether male or female) and reinstall the axle...
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Bobby Higgins wrote:Blwn LD9 wrote:GM part #'s
Shaft Assy, Intermediate - PN 26034381
Bearing Shaft - PN 26016069
Ring, Retainer - PN 7829495
I just searched these, and only got the "Ring, Retainer"
Are you sure the "Shaft Assy, Intermediate" and the "Bearing Shaft" are correct.
Where did you source these part numbers from.
Thanks
I got the part numbers out of the GM catalog. Sounds like they maybe discontinued if the part numbers are not working.
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Lee Josephs wrote:If you are making that much power and worried about breaking an axle, then why waste the money on stock stuff when you can get a pair from here http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-axles/chevrolet
Actually the few that have bought axles from DSS have more issues than stock... Adam Hahn has had his stock axles hold up on his 600+hp sunfire... So... stock axles are fine... cheaper, and readily available everywhere... so tell me, the fact I can buy 60 new stockers for the price of one set of DSS axles... why would I want to?
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Alex Richards wrote:Lee Josephs wrote:If you are making that much power and worried about breaking an axle, then why waste the money on stock stuff when you can get a pair from here http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-axles/chevrolet
Actually the few that have bought axles from DSS have more issues than stock... Adam Hahn has had his stock axles hold up on his 600+hp sunfire... So... stock axles are fine... cheaper, and readily available everywhere... so tell me, the fact I can buy 60 new stockers for the price of one set of DSS axles... why would I want to?
What kind of issues are people having with the DSS axles besides the price? I have installed probably 6 or 7 sets on 03-04 Cobras and we never had any issues. Heck, those guys would usually break the differential housing before breaking the DSS axles.
But the main issue I see is the stock 5 speed axles arent available everywhere and can be hard to find. I went through this with my Beretta when I was trying to find a right side axle. Rebuilders had them listed, but no one actually had any in stock.
Plus the original poster is already having a hard time finding the jack shaft and bearing bracket. When the bearing bracket broke on my Beretta I had to weld it back together because all of the original ones (and I am talking the 94 and earlier stuff) were discontinued and finding a 5 speed J or L or N body around here is hard as hell.
I believe most people have been snapping DSS and going back to stock. It seems their alloy is too strong for the application and cannot withstand the impact loading and shatters... Stock axles are softer and seem to hold up better.
I have no issues getting axles... new or used. Keep in mind your beretta is almost 20 years old... Parts availibility is going to drop off... I've worked at Napa and Advance and trust me.... They are readily available for third gens and up.
The bearing bracket that I made for a 2200 was fabricated... This is not a question of availability... When you make it yourself you really don't have to worry about finding another one.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Alex Richards wrote:Lee Josephs wrote:If you are making that much power and worried about breaking an axle, then why waste the money on stock stuff when you can get a pair from here http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-axles/chevrolet
Actually the few that have bought axles from DSS have more issues than stock... Adam Hahn has had his stock axles hold up on his 600+hp sunfire... So... stock axles are fine... cheaper, and readily available everywhere... so tell me, the fact I can buy 60 new stockers for the price of one set of DSS axles... why would I want to?
Not sure why I would waste that muich money ..... when .....
1. Most OEM replacement axles you buy now have a lifetime warranty on them.
2. It only takes about 30-45 minutes to replace an axle, with a skilled mechanic. (I know this site doenst contain many of them)
This makes the 70-80 dollar axle worth it.
Alex Richards wrote:Roofy wrote:LF passenger axle will be the same as the RF if it has the intermediate shaft
Actually the right front becomes a stock Auto axle and the left stays the same manual.
The jack shaft makes the inboard joint female.
so the right axle is a left auto axle?
Magik1109 wrote:Alex Richards wrote:Roofy wrote:LF passenger axle will be the same as the RF if it has the intermediate shaft
Actually the right front becomes a stock Auto axle and the left stays the same manual.
The jack shaft makes the inboard joint female.
so the right axle is a left auto axle?
Auto axles are the same on both sides.... it just depends on the stub shaft being installed or not. In the case of the jack shaft the stub shaft is left out.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Any bump for these pieces?
I want to source all of this for spring.
Thanks
If you can find a jackshaft I can rebuild the bearing and make the bracket for about 150
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
