I'm going to try this again. Now that I'm boosted i'm having a crappy time tuning this thing with Megasquirt. Mostly i think is because i have an upstream exhaust leak and messing up the wideband, but since i don't an accurate wideband reading, i'm not boosting..its actually really sluggish and hard to get into boost anyway..
something has to be messed up when i'm running like 130% VE, and its still not richening up at all..
also since more people are running megasquirt now, i think is a good time to get people to post there maps. in .MSG format so we can look at them in megatune. maybe some datalogs to..something can help me do tune a little better
so post what MS your using, size of injectors, code, megatune and anything else you think will help...
Thanks
I had a similar problem when I first started with my MS. It turned out to be the fuel pump not getting enuf power and not putting out enuf pressure.
MSQ files can't be attached so i'll just put the ve table info in in the post
MSNS-e code 26h I think
Megatune 2.25
VE Table RPM Range [12]
[ 0] = 6
[ 1] = 11
[ 2] = 16
[ 3] = 22
[ 4] = 28
[ 5] = 34
[ 6] = 40
[ 7] = 46
[ 8] = 52
[ 9] = 58
[ 10] = 64
[ 11] = 70
VE Table Load Range (MAP) [12]
[ 0] = 20
[ 1] = 30
[ 2] = 35
[ 3] = 45
[ 4] = 50
[ 5] = 60
[ 6] = 65
[ 7] = 70
[ 8] = 80
[ 9] = 85
[ 10] = 95
[ 11] = 100
VE Table [ 12][ 12]
[ 0] [ 1] [ 2] [ 3] [ 4] [ 5] [ 6] [ 7] [ 8] [ 9] [ 10] [ 11]
[ 0] = 30 27 25 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26
[ 1] = 32 35 41 42 41 48 66 64 63 61 59 57
[ 2] = 39 46 50 47 40 44 68 59 64 63 61 59
[ 3] = 43 49 54 51 55 58 71 68 68 66 64 62
[ 4] = 50 50 60 53 58 60 67 72 70 68 66 64
[ 5] = 53 60 60 63 61 67 77 75 73 71 69 67
[ 6] = 54 61 67 65 65 74 79 77 75 73 71 69
[ 7] = 55 63 68 67 71 80 75 79 77 75 72 70
[ 8] = 58 65 64 74 70 80 84 83 80 78 76 73
[ 9] = 59 57 63 68 71 68 79 84 82 80 77 75
[ 10] = 61 70 77 83 87 90 90 88 86 83 81 78
[ 11] = 62 71 78 85 89 92 92 90 87 85 82 80
what you do to fix the fuel pump problem??
i think all i did was replace the fuel pump relay. then i started from scratch again as it ran so rich it was disgusting.
i can't say for sure that your problem is the same, but hopefully it is simple to fix. it only took me a week of on-and-off pissing with MS to figure out that it was the fuel pump not putting out enuf.
well we pulled the plug on the fuel pump and is getting 12v..i can try changing the FP relay.. but MS is acting really wierd now, turns the fuel pump on and everything, but does shut it off and now it won't start
..i don't understand it. I started it and drovve it out of the garage and into the driveway, pulled the FP plug and now it won't start...ERG its been so frustrating lately..
ok so i changed the 40 pin chip and it works again...so we'll see what happens what i start the car and drive it..
Well good news, the car won't start again
.......erg i'm getting really frustrated with this thing, i don't know whats wrong..
But where is Jcavi, Excidium, Roscoe and everyone else running megasquirt??
what is it doing when you try to start it?
it fires, then it dies..almost like the VE map isn't right for it..but no matter what i do t the map it doesn't start
that sounds like the after-start enrichment is off. that is what happens on mine when i start my car at a temp that i haven't had any real time into getting a good cranking pw and good after-start enrichment. if you take a datalog of you trying to start the car a couple of times, i could take a look at it and see if I can figure it out.
i have the stock ecu controllin the fuel pump still.I recomend you do the same. it does not sound like a tuning problem running rather somethings screwed up. do you have a good ground? like atleast 5 ground pins used? as for the no start double check your afterstart enrichment. try stayin on the starter a bit after it fires to catch it if its drops off. that may get you running. make sure your req_ fuel is right. alotta people mess with that to get the car to start and its really not necessary.
Good luck!
99 Turbo Sunfire GT | Ram 2500 | International Rollback | Mr Hanky the Suburban
there is 5 grounds yes. How would i make the stock ECU control the fuel pump??. The thing is i started it and drove it out of the drive way, then 10 mins later after i checked the FP it wouldn't start again?? I don't see how exactly that could be the afterstart enrichments, but i'll check it jsut in case..I'm going to go play with it now, i'll come back with more info
First i can't attatch a datalog because its not a picture..gimme your email that you use and i'll email it to you..
second that log was taken with out a o2 sensor hooked up. and with a really really rough basemap since i can't get it started to tune again, and the tuning done before was way wrong
Third i think i found half my problem. it has to be in the wiring.. Reason behind me thinking this is because..I have the Zeitronics WB o2 which needs a IGN power and ground, so what i did was connect a aligator clip to the power and ground and then clip the clips onto the power and a ground for MS, same power and ground pretty much.. What i found out is that when the o2 sensor isn't hooked up. The FP works like it should, Primes and shuts off, comes on during ignition.. When the o2s is hooked up, the FP is always on..it doesn't shut off after the Priming.. Also if i take a test light and ground it and put the light into a INJ. clip the FP turns on..there is no reason that should be happening..
you can email me at kjdhome(AT)telus.net
replace (AT) with @
first sorry poundinfire i never got around to sending you the datalog..
second, the first time my buddy test my fuel pump, just tested it the plug..unplugged so it got 12v open circuit voltage duhh!!
i tested it again this morning, and i got 3v..... that looks to be my problem. though the car does start and run again, just really @!#$ty and the same symptoms as before.. (130%ve and junk)
i tried a different relay, and it still does it. so i'm going to rewire a new FP relay and wire back to the FP with thicker wire
I had this exact same weird problem and the funny thing is that the car ran fine for about a month and then all of a sudden I had starting problems only resolved by putting in a new relay and so unpredictable tha I always had 3 relays on hand until I figured it out but the only reliable solution is to have the stock fuel pump relay turn on a seperate relay which gets a direct line to the battery for power and use the stock fuel pump power wire to switch on the relay so it is on during both crank and run also you should have the other side connected to the wire going back to the fuel pump which you cut as a trigger twoards the fuse box side. It is also a good idea to run a heavier guage wire back to the fuel pump for a boosted car cause you get more from the pump by this alone.
I replyed like a week ago and it didnt show up???
oh well how are things going?
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
heres a little update..
I re-wired the fuel pump with a new relay, and thicker wire my own way instead of using half the stock harness, so now i got 12v running to the FP.. the thing ran better, but i started to show a miss fire.
well i'll let the pictures do the talking before i tell the rest of the story
well i went to find out which cylinder was missing, i pulled the plug wire off #3 and it didn't change the idle, so obviously it was this one.. i then when to see if any others were also, pulled the wire for #4 and it almost died..ok so this one is firing good, when i went to put the plug wire back on (with the car still running) BOOM!!! the plug shot out of the head, scared the living @!#$ out of me..after i calm down a little, i try to put a new plug in, @!#$ head stripped out....so i decide to pull the old head since i have a half built head with a full P&P, just needing to be built to put on.. so thats how the car sits now, no head one and waiting for school to pick up my Stainless steel valves and the new head is going on tomorrow
..
i'm glad i got to pull the head but pissed at the same time
all the cylinders look good and now i get my built head on too
another update
alright, i finished the port and polish on the head. and thanks to my freinds Josh and Kyle.. we got the new head on and the car is driving again..It runs better than it did before, its stil very sluggish, but it actually went into boost...lol about 1-2psi is all that it would go up to..i think the problem lies in one of three things (maybe all three)
1. Boost leak
2. Pre-turbo exhaust leak
3. Just to sluggish to put it into boost
onto the pictures
i would explain all the pictures, but i'm to lazy right now
wow great job man
btw I would try and help you out with your boost leak problem, but thats one of those probelms that has so many causes that its almost impossible to e diagnose.
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
see thats the thing, i don't know if there is a boost leak.. I haven't driven it since i replaced the head. and i just went out there to try and diagnose whats wrong, still seems like its miss firing, but the CEL isn't blinking...but i tried pulling the plug wires again Cylinder #1 and #3 didn't change the idle at all. so pretty much its running off 2 and 4..but the plugs are still firing in #1 and #3... so what could be the cause of this?? no fuel? what are some other possibilities of it?
well,
from what your explaining.... sounds like a @!#$ up coil pack.........................
is the FIRING ORDER CORRECT ???
is everything good.... (timing, ignition, etc........)
let us know....
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
can't be a messed up coil pack.. because cyl #1 and #4 fire together and #2 and #3 fire together..so if #1 and #3 aren't firing, either would eb #2 and #4 (if it was bad coil packs)
wiring is correct checked, double checked and checked by my teacher..i never messed with anything timing so i'm assuming its still correct, and set up stock
its not bad rings...its not burning oil and/or smoking at all.
i haven't had a chance to look at it, but i'm feeling like its those 2 injectors are not firing, and i think it has to do with my wiring, something so simple but yet i still f'd it up..
Try putting test lights into the injector plug and crank the engine over. If not could be a bad ignition module I found this out the hard way after digging right into the wiring harness trying to find out why my car would not start. I started out with irridum plugs which in my opion now should never be used for boost anyhow one of them failed and the porclin came off the plug and fell into the engine at 250 KM/h and made a very big bang as the extremely hard porclin used in irridum plugs collided between the new weisco pistons and my cylinder head. anyhow I put it all back together after getting a new head and an engine job and couldn't get it to start. I realized the megasquirt was getting its tach signal form the ign module and was not getting a proper tach signal and couldn't fire the injectors right. Put in a new module and also a coil which got cooked by the spark plug closing and everything fired up and worked fine. Also I had to set the fuel pump to start using the origoinal relay to start another because the megasquirt would only start the fuel pump sometimes.
