I've been doing some contemplating on where and how to make vents in the engine bay to vent out heat for cheap. I was looking at the strut towers in the engine bay and then from inside the wheel well, what if I were to make a 4x4 or smaller cutout with a mesh metal screen of some sort on the strut tower right behind the fuse box and the same behind the coolant overflow tank? It looks like it would function well while driving and also let heat out at idle with the fan on. I'm looking for input on this idea, pros and cons etc. I do plan on doing this mod to see for myself and to promote it but only after its concluded that it's worth the effort.

Heat rises... Vents in the hood would be more effective.

Not to mention, not compromising the structural integrity of the strut towers.

Yes Im aware of that option with a heat extracting hood. Also the issue with the strut tower integrity does make sense if the cutout was too big. However with a few holes drilled in the towers, like 4 at the top edge then 3 then 2 and 1 stacked on eachother with the addition of a strut brace wouldnt effect the integrity minimally or not at all. Without a strut brace I can see a problem when cornering hard. I know that heat rises, Yet the whole engine bay gets hot and after a 30 min drive and when I pop the hood, the strut tower wall is hot to the touch. Soo I can see the benefit of some type of venting in that area. Im not trying to argue but I see how it can help quite a bit.

Very bad idea. For it to be effective you will have to open it up enough that you will ruin the strut towers. A few small holes won't do anything. If you want to vent that area the put vents in the hood.

The strut towers are hot to the touch because of the ambient air temps in the engine bay... Hood vents will have a more profound effect on those temps than drilling holes in the strut towers. You could also look at some form of thermal barrier for the exhaust. (Wrap, ceramic coating, etc)

Looking at your mods list I would say your time and money would be better spent figuring out why your car is running so warm. If it truly is running warm enough to cause concern for you I'd say you have other issues that need to be addressed first.

Theres no issues with the car as far as overheating. I just see it as a plus to help take some heat out without cutting up the hood. But Since yall disagree with the strut tower vents then majority rules. Im all about doing mods for cheap and I do everything from scratch. I will look into doing some cutouts on the hood as Strat81 mentioned, I thank yall for your opinions on the matter. I will put up a post about doing custom vents on a stock hood sometime in the future. I would have made a how to, for the custom trans mount insert bushing that I made but I thought about it after I finished it. which was a slap on the face for me, would have been a great option for people with the auto trans, and for 60 bucks instead of 250 for the TTR solid one that does the same thing. thanks guys, yall have a good one.

First of all do not modify the front strut towers or adjacent metal due to weakening the structure. Build hood extractors are least likely to mess with the flow dynamics of the actual cooling system. But remember the engine is designed to run at a spec temp to maintain emissions. Also the cars mileage and longevity comes from the retaining thermal dynamics.
Too many think lowering temps on newer cars is productive. But unless you don't get emissions inspections lowering under hood temps do little for the car.
Insulating and lowering intake temps and evening thermal temps of engine help more. I have seen the use of Evans coolant and revamping the fan strategies more useful. See the reason for the fan strategies is to maintain an average temp with coolant that boils at a low temp. See coolant boils at 212deg Fahrenheit the pressure system raises boiling point to between 257-266 depending on pressure cap. Most GM fan turn on is 225-235 deg. And no ethylene glycol antifreeze does not change boiling point.
With GM cars they try to maintain 200-205 degree running temp down the road.
The main reason is to lower HC output and allow and maintain converter light off.
Now use the Evans coolant allows engine to run hotter and not boil with no system pressure(375 deg 0 pressure at sea level).
If there are no inspection in your area, dump converter and retune from there.
EGR is only for NOX reduction and some knock control. If you can retune for more power and no knock then EGR can be deleted, again the reason mostly for running fans higher is for keeping system efficient and emissions.
Now a benefit is less internal wear and condensation in the oil.
Better crankcase ventalation is required when dropping engine temps. And mileage may vary.