okay i have 97 Z24 and i just spent atleast $1500 and rebuilding the top half of the motor and now it'll start and run for two sec. and then die. i check everything except a proper fuel test and a ecu. went a gm dealership and they said they could find the problem but it'll cost me at least $400-$500 just to CHECK the problem not to fix it. so now am at a cross road, sale all the stuff i put into the car and buy something else or pay to fix it?

um yeah there should be no way it should cost that much to FIND a problem
thats bull@!#$
find another shop or dealer and get another quote

i did bring it to another shop and it cost me $180 for the guy to hold my car for 5 days and tell me it's my lifters b/c i have bad compression so i got my car back did a compression test everything was 150-160. so now i'm left with just the dealership b/c no one around here seems to know why it's dieing?

i did find another dealership and she said they'll be able to find the problem but i didn't tell her that the car set up for 3 months before i got around to the rebuild (car ran find before i did the rebuild) should i tell her that i did the rebuild or just let them check it out?

just let them check it out, but make sure youre not gonna get the shaft on a price beforehand

The more honest you are upfront and the more information you can give them may save you money in the long run. What you tell them could dictate how they trouble shot and save some time.

the last person i was honest with told me i needed new lifters "in which all 16 are new" and he also said when i had installed the my new lifters that i shouldn't have let them sit in clean engine oil

check your fuel psi. lifters will not cause it to run for 2 sec then quit. once it dies does it have spark?

i don't know how to check the fuel psi on a 2.4 and once it dies you have to wait about 2-3 mins. before it'll start back up other wise it'll just stall out

please tell me that when you rebuilt the motor you used after market parts right?

i know this may have nothing to do with it but sounds like youre pass lock theft system may be killing the engine but i could be wrong just my 2 cents

I agree it sounds like PassLock cutting the fuel.

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

...and the way to know for sure... is your security light blinking??

If so, the fix is in the Library FAQ

Check ur oil press switch! If it don't read anypressure it will kick the fuel pump off! If that don't work ill go up to service and ask around i work in parts at a gm dealer btw!


Ryan

StrippedCav98 (Now Quotable) wrote:please tell me that when you rebuilt the motor you used after market parts right?

no after market parts just a p&p and just about everything up top and a few miscellaneous items here and there, i'm just looking to S/C it with a little boost was going to do the secret cams but someone from the org rob me had to file a claim to get my money back took to long and needed my car

for pass-lock reset it twice light never did blank when it starts then dies light stays off

Ryan: i wen to another dealer and she said a bill for the first test and if they have to take the motor apart then i'll be looking at $400 but if i let them fix it'll go to the cost of repairs

it's at the dealer now know something by tuesday

okay the dealer called today and told me i'm looking at 3 hour's of work at $100 an hour, yes i know it's a lot just to tell me what's wrong but what can you do?? i need my car, waiting on the call on tuesday

Ummm....

gene simmons wrote:i know this may have nothing to do with it but sounds like youre pass lock theft system may be killing the engine but i could be wrong just my 2 cents

REDGOTE wrote:I agree it sounds like PassLock cutting the fuel.

Rob

John Lenko wrote:...and the way to know for sure... is your security light blinking??

If so, the fix is in the Library FAQ

So... is your security light blinking? Help us help you

...j

Ah @!#$, I can read

Never mind... I have no idea. I'll shut up now.

dealer just called and said that two of my cylinders show no compression and that i need a new motor and it'll be $3000 + tax. i don't know what could of happen between when i did the compression test that check out find, fix or buy something new??

crate motor from GM is only 1500-1800 depending where you go. $1200 is a lot of labor......



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

3000 was for the price of a used motor install a new would be $4674 but i found a better deal on the motor for $1734 shipped to the dealer with 3 yrs. 100,000 warranty and the labor was $1900 for the dealer to install it, they are diffidently ripping me off but i don't think they're right about my motor being bad so i want them to prove me wrong and if they're wrong then by law they have to fix it with the cost on them because they claim the engine was bad

If there's no compression on two cylinders... you broke something. Likely the timing chain, or at least jumped a tooth or two and smashed the valves into the pistons... bending or breaking them. But it's hard to say with that little information.... If you did a compression test yourself, you'd have known for sure that it was good then... so I'd say you might have a leg to stand on... but I don't know where you get this "by law" stuff, as it's the first I've heard of it

Anyway... that's a lot, but it's a GM dealer so what do you expect? If you're good with tools you could swap the motor yourself... $1700 for a new one with warranty is pretty decent. Around here, a low mileage used one is rare... and fetches around $1200 cdn..

yeah, i know the price of the motor isn't bad at all, it's just the labor but that also include the towing and all the other work perform on it, as for the "by law" if you call BBB or automotive Service Council, they'll tell you more about it and you could also read up on it at the BBB website. today i'll pick up my est. for the labor, i could put it in myself but i don't have time and i don't want to have to bring it to someone else when it do the same thing it's doing now b/c the dealer was wrong

They told you that there was NO compression on 2 cylinders but have no Idea why, (even after you checked it yourself and it was OK) and there just saying you need a new engine right out of the gate? It sounds like there strying to screw you.... I'de get my car out of there and wouldn't let them touch it.

If the car runs fine for a few seconds THEN dies, then there has to be compresion in your cylinders, and everything "mechanical" has to be working correctly. It almost has to be a fuel, spark, or sensor problem. Or something with the ECU, maybe even a controler or actuator problem.

But no compression, or theres something wrong internally? Come on, who do they think there kidding.