My buddy bought what we've now figured out, according to the VIN, is a 93 Cavalier. According to the (idiot) previous owner, it was an 89 cavalier with a 93 2.2L motor, with TBI, because "TBI is better then MPFI". Granted, I don't know Chevys like I know Hondas, but 4 separate injectors would say to me that it's MPFI. I bought a Haynes today for the 82-95 (or some such thing) Cavalier, and none of the images or teardowns of the various intakes seem to match what I'm looking at, so I'm curious as to what the heck it really is. The ECU is fried, it some water got in it, and the leads of a couple chips are corroded together, so I need another ECU, and to get that, I need to figure out what year/size motor it is (or if it really is the stock motor). The part number on the ECU case matches that for a 92/93 2.2L, but it had obviously been apart before, so I'm not sure if the board is the one that was originally in it. I also need to figure out the correct fuel line hookup, the original lines were cut and replaced with rubber ones, but were disconnected. For your viewing pleasure (more pics
here):
God what a mess.. I'd seriously find a newer/better engine than that. It looks like it's the 2.2 out of an early 90's cavalier. Maybe someone else can verify. It's definitely not carb.
Quote:
Watching you parade around my bedroom in a thong was a little like watching sea lions mate.
looks like a 2.2 from 97 or earlier to me
Oops, that was supposed to say "Anyone wanna play the "guess the motor" game", guess the quotes screwed it up. In the class this car will be racing in, it needs to be a stock motor, no swaps or building up allowed, but you must remove all the lights, and you can remove other systems, heater, AC, all electronics, etc. The PO apparently elected to do that, and also remove all the wiring from said systems, and also anything he decided looked like it wasn't necessary. I've been working the last 3 days to trace all the cut and duct taped (not kidding) wires to fix all his mistakes, only to discover the ECU is fried. I'm about 90% sure the wiring is good enough to run the car, just need to get an ecu to test with.
hey man the easiest way to find out the motor is to look for a meatal tag on the motor bolted on or welded on or stamped on, this is comming from a mechanic himself, not for sure where it would be at for sure cause it varies block to block but once you have the block code take that to a gm dealer and the mechanic can run a check on it or be able to tell you what it is.
My guess seeing that the wiring harness is a complete mess, is that it is not the stock engine and someone installed it. It looks like the earlier 2.2s out of the 3rd gens, cant recall if the 2nd gens had the 'same' 2.2 though.
the second gen did have the same 2.2, to a point. you have a second gen (94-) cavalier with the 2.2l ohv mpfi engine. if the vin says 93, then get an ecm for a 93, 2.2l car. as for the harness... i wouldnt wanna touch it.
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The harness is actually "good enough" at this point, coming from an electronics major
All the wires that are missing/cut went to other systems, lights, AC, etc. I've now literally traced every single wire connected to the motor itself (MAF, TPS, etc), and checked that they all connect to where they're supposed to, ECU, power, or ground, and the ECU's power/ground wires are all set as well. The only external systems that matter, fuel pump, alternator, and starter, are all set as well. I've even marked a bunch more for removal, once the engine's running, that wiring harness will probably only be a dozen or so wires when I'm done. I'm also redoing all the grounds to use chassis/motor grounds, so they're a little less obvious, and then rerouting the wires so they're as hidden as possible and slipping conduit over everything (there's a show at the start of the season, June 4th, would like compete in it if we can get it going by then). Hopefully picking up an ECU tomorrow.
The block does have a stamp on it, says "G1" on the exhaust side, in the bottom right corner, haven't seen any others (yet).
The other question, as you can see in the pics, the brake master cylinder has been replaced, the ABS system was removed in favor of the regular one, but none of the lines are hooked up. I know it doesn't really matter which side (left/right) connects to top/bottom, but I'm assuming front and back does matter. I'm guessing the back ones would be the closest to the vacuum booster?
Unless I'm remembering wrong.... one line splits to the front left, and rear right... and the other one to the others.... (on older cars without ABS) . but as long as they are hooked up so all 4 brakes work... it shouldn't matter....
And that definitely does look like a 96 or earlier LN2 engine.
Weebel wrote:Unless I'm remembering wrong.... one line splits to the front left, and rear right... and the other one to the others.... (on older cars without ABS) . but as long as they are hooked up so all 4 brakes work... it shouldn't matter....
And that definitely does look like a 96 or earlier LN2 engine.
I agree with the engine. you should not have any "swap" problems, although a vin check should tell you if it is the proper displacement for that car.
the brake thing will make a huge difference, the bias is something like 80 front/20 rear, if you get those mixed up, you are going to know it.
Actually..... brake bias isn't controlled by the master cylinder..... it's controlled by the clamping ability of the brakes.... the reason the front brakes apply so much harder if because the front brakes are disc and the rear are drums... and that 80% of your stopping power comes from the front brakes regardless of what your diving.... (unless your hitting the brakes in revers)... do to weight transfer. There is only one piston in the master cylinder... and the same amount of fluid is moved through all of the lines when the pedal is pressed down so actual line pressure is pretty even...
And as far as that wiring harness goes.... for the love of god... at least invest in some wire ties LOL.
no....these masters have internal proportioning.
It lives! New computer (took a gamble, 92-93 2.2L computer works) and a new fuel pump (old one was a measly 5.5-9psi, not sure what the idiot was thinking), and she fires right up. Idles extremely high, probably the half dozen vacuum leaks and the fact that the alternator wasn't even hooked up doing that, but at least it's firing on all 4 cylinders. Discovered that the clutch slave cylinder had blown out, so I replaced that, and now it moves, but in a related, very long story, there e-brake cable's now broken. The wiring is all covered in conduit now, there's a radiator and dual fans (out of an 87 Pulsar), and the ignition switch has been completely eliminated in favor of switches. It's coming along, this weekend it's the joy of brake lines, hopefully next weekend it hits the track.
Brake lines are finally done, and the master cylinder's junk. Not only is one of the outlets stripped (not by my hand, either), but when I pulled the lines off (after trying to bleed one of them for half an hour), I only got fluid out of two of them. Got an ebay one on the way, not making test and tune this wednesday, but hopefully I can get a couple laps in before this saturday's race and then be ready for the first race on June 4th.
Can anyone confirm which lines go where, and if it really matters? Does anyone have a book on this car, aside from the Haynes (which doesn't have that info) and can look it up? It's definitely the master cylinder from the 89, the rear bumper has an ABS sticker and that master is definitely not ABS. I'm not really sure why the moron didn't just unhook the ABS electronics on the original system, but maybe there was a reason.
