Hi,

Once again, I used the search looking for answers but have failed.

I am redoing my 95 2.2 Sunfire engine. Had a bad head gasket and also had 3 cracks in the head. I've arranged for another head but my question is about the head gasket.

When certain parts are proven to be trouble prone there is often a redesign by someone that overcomes the issue and prevents further problems. Does it make a big difference on what manufacturers gasket I use when I install the head? I've read that GM "redesigned" the head gasket but what does this mean? I've also read that companies like Felpro look at gasket issues and come up with their own take on a better product.

specifically.......
Should I purchase a genuine GM?
Felpro ?

Or some other manufacturer?
if so, whose is best and has a proven track record of extreme quality?

Thanks for any insight,
Dave

when doing the head gasket you have to consider some things, sense your going to have the engine apart anyway does the timing chain need to be replaced or the water pump or thermostat. you will need new head bolds i would go with felpro head bolts or if you want a stud ARP has them. for the gasket set felpro is just as good as oem if better. for the head your getting make sure its not warped or anything, take it to the machine shop and have them pressure check it and what not.
i am sure other people will chim in and make some more suggestions

aaron campbell wrote:when doing the head gasket you have to consider some things, sense your going to have the engine apart anyway does the timing chain need to be replaced or the water pump or thermostat. you will need new head bolds i would go with felpro head bolts or if you want a stud ARP has them. for the gasket set felpro is just as good as oem if better. for the head your getting make sure its not warped or anything, take it to the machine shop and have them pressure check it and what not.
i am sure other people will chim in and make some more suggestions

Hi, Thanks for the response to my post.
I am reasonably aware of the additional things to look at while making repairs. I've got all the Helm Factory Manuals as well as a crappy Haynes Manual.
Currently the engine is out of the car and sits in my garage on an engine stand stripped to the bare iron. While the bearings are not at all worn out, they show wear and I'll replace them all because I'm in there and don't want to return again. The crank is in wonderful shape, no gouges or unusual wear. I got out the micrometer and measured it in several spots on each journal and it is still round and smooth, original standard sizes also. The cam bearings show wear but only on the bottom of the bearing, the top isn't worn at all. I imagine down ward pressure from the lifters and valve springs always pushing down on the cam it had no where to wear but at the bottom. I'll replace them. Also new timing chain and gears as well as tensioner. I've read after market tensioners have a high failure rate so I'll be getting a GM for that as well as the oil port plug for the timing gears.
I'll Glaze break the cylinders (almost no ridge) and install new rings. I'll put in new rod bolts and nuts along with new head bolts. I am torn about an Oil pump but lean strongly to installing a new one, maybe the older longer version that puts our 80 PSI instead of the newer 60 PSI pumps, if I can find one. I think the 60 PSI has become the "norm" in pump replacements.

Curious, I found all of the exhaust side Head Bolts Finger TIght only. The exhaust side of the gasket was virtually wiped out with a only a few strands of the metal left! (this may be why the bolts were loose, no gasket material to squeeze) It was the Worst head gasket I've ever seen in all my years of fixing cars.
I know these are NOT re-torque head bolts and gaskets but use the torque value plus angle system but the loose bolts make me wonder if one should check after a period of time!

I plan to purchase a new head instead of going used or "rebuilt". The price isn't bad ($285) considering I got the car for a very very very small amount of money. The body is perfect, good interior, new tires and a great soft top so I'll be getting a rebuilt ride for well under $1000. Pulling the motor I found a brand new torque convertor and I dropped the trans pan to find clean oil and no wear debris in the pan or stuck to the magnet so I suspect the tranny is a very recent rebuild by someone.
New alternator, belt and tensioner also. I'll slip in a new water pump, thermostat and hoses and I'm off for what I hope to be 100,000 more miles of motoring! I know, brakes and other wear items but that is all minor stuff.
Because of the difficulty of reaching the coil pack I am toying with installing new ones, I had problems with them on a 2.2 Cavalier years ago.

The car came with a FELPRO kit and just want to install a head gasket that is better than the factory one was considering the amount of failures they've had with them.

Thanks for any and all help!

Dave

Sounds real familiar to my friends S-10 as far as wear goes. 100,000 miles give or take and nearly no wear. Somehow the head got cracked when starting the engine up though. Don't know if it was air trapped or what, but the temp guage was coming up slower than expected before finally sounding like a diesel. Replaced the head and removed the thermostat to make sure water circulated after the motor being bone dry. Good luck, although it sounds like you know what you're doing.

Oh yeah, if it was me I'd go ahead and put in new lifters while I had it down.

ohvrolla wrote:Oh yeah, if it was me I'd go ahead and put in new lifters while I had it down.

Hi,

I thought about that but everything I've read says IF you put in new lifters, put in a new cam and if you need a cam, put in new lifters. I've carefully marked each lifters original spot and my cam is in perfect shape.
Advice????

BTW this engine has 125,000 on it. I was excited to see how good the lower end was considering the oil looked like Mississippi river mud!

Dave

I'd say it's fine to swap lifters because they are roller instead of flat tappet lifters.