I know there are tons of topics on this - which is what made me decide to do it. Well that and I was about to do an oil change. Which leads me to my question - I added 1/3 to the fuel tank 1/3 through the brake booster line, and 1/3 in the oil. How long should I wait before I actually change my oil? Like Can I just change it right away? after 5km? after 10km? 20? 100? etc etc. I havent seen an answer for that on the org. All I see is people who mention that they didn't put it in the oil.

Putting it in the oil doesn't do too much. After the smoke wears off you should change the oil.

i've said this several times, usually at least once in every topic on sea foam. when you add it to your oil, let the engine IDLE for five minutes, then change the oil immediately. being that seafoam is a solvent, what does it do when introduced to oil? it breaks it down, and removes alot of its lubricating properties. so what does seafom do to old, already lubicitive impaired oil? it breaks it down. DO NOT DRIVE WITH SEA FOAM IN THE CRANK CASE.



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I did not drive with it in the crank case - thanks guys. I just wanted to make sure. Most people dont put it in the crankcase which is why its not too specific on the other topics - er well not that I noticed. Anyways - all done!

Is it just me or does Seafoam smell like Mineral Spirits? If that is what it is,,,,,,, expensive way to purchase the stuff!

Dave

I don't know - I'm not to keen on smelling chemicals so I didnt take a whiff of the Seafoam. Didnt get as much smoke as I expected though - ohwell.

Jusy did my daily driver today and it worked great, was not too sure about what to do about putting it in the brake booster or the throttle body. I just put some in my engine and the about a can in the gas tank. Along with a tune up and oil change it turned my car into a whole new car. It was pretty amazing.

I asked the same question of Seafoam and got this response from them

Quote:

Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase Oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a Blended Petroleum Product, NOT A CHEMICAL and is widely used as an old oil residue reducer and moisture drier in any oil crankcase.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner / diagnostic tool, and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive. Sea Foam Motor Treatment does NOT add significantly to oil volume, so removing oil is NOT required for use, when used according to printed directions on the product container.

1. As a PRE SERVICE CLEANER for old oil residue, (sticky rings or valve train noise, diagnostics), pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of crankcase oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint Sea Foam to 4 gallons of oil, please.) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 200 miles, (Diesels 1 hour drive/run time MINIMUM) and then do your oil change service (LOF). This is the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbo & Supercharged applications where hot oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, those residues NEED CLEANING. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service = OIL CHANGE).

2. As an AFTER SERVICE ADDITIVE into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put 1 ½ ounces Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase per quart of capacity as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for proper level, color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF) When the oil gets dirty, CHANGE IT!

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will usually make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF (oil change service), or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Synthetic oils, both blends and 100%, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants.

Check your oil; monitor its level, color & clarity to determine the need for an LOF service! Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department July 2008 DD
Sea Foam Sales Company

Per this document, I added Seafoam to my Sunfire and drove the car 200 miles, then changed the oil. Sadly it didn't help my oil consumption

While Seafoam DOES have some uses, sadly a portion of the "hype' is not unlike the old Snake oil products of the 1800's. It really doesn't do what some claim it will do. At some point, it probably did free up a stuck ring but by and large nothing will fix your oil consumption short of identifying why you are using oil and fixing that issue.
It could be something as easy and cheap as valve stem seals or as big as a complete engine removal and teardown installing new rings and resurfacing the cylinders properly along with a proper valve job and NEW valve stem seals.
It could be an oil pressure sending unit leaking also.

These fix it all products are most often not really "fix it all's" at all.

There is validity to cleaning deposits out of a fuel system with additives and this is one of the areas seafoam appears to excell at.

Engine oil is too important to go messing with. It is the blood of your automobile, Any high quality (oil cheap quality) engine oil sold today has additives in it to clean your engine and lubricate it at the same time. These products are engineered at a facility that has people a lot smarter than you or I with years of experience and a great understanding of what it take to lubricate a modern engine. To go and willy nilly add things to your oil most often only dilutes the oil and could work against the carefully formulated oil as it comes out of the can (plastic bottle, sorry showing my age, oil used to come in cans).

People have been sold "engine flushes" that claim to remove all that awful sludge and built up crud in the engine. The sad part is that it actually does work but much of the build up that is dissolved is AFTER the oil filter and also contains built up lumps that are suddenly freed by these chemicals and thus gets circulated into the critical parts of the engine and wipes out bearings and other critical parts resulting in an engine rebuild that may not have manifested itself for 10's of thousands of miles, years, if not longer.

Dave

Yeah, didn't figure it would do anything. But I knew my engine was pretty clean anyway since it's had a steady diet of Mobil 1 until the last oil change. Figured why not. If it works, awesome, if not, oh well.