I'm fairly new to the cavaliers but not racing or wrenching. I have a 2000 Z24 5spd and was just wondering if there are any weak links in the drivetrain? Reason being, Ive owned 3 saturn S series, & I grenaded the differentials on 2 occasions lol. The problem was with the differential pin working its way out over time (wheelhop speeds up that process greatly lol) And then Kaboom! the pin takes out the case and diff . Solution- weld the diff pin on both sides. After doing that, I didn't have any issues
I've read how the cavaliers have electrical issues and the gauge cluster randomly stops working. Also, VATs acting up and creating an issue. I already fixed the VATs issue with HP Tuners
All input appreciated.
2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd CRM
Eibach Anti Roll kit, Poly motor/trans mounts, custom made CAI, Header, cutout, tuned by me with HPtuners
14.81 @ 91.09 mph 2.06 60'
97 Saturn SC1 with DOHC swap. 13.7@98mph on motor. +75 shot 12.8 @107mph
The diff pin can come out just like it does on the Saturn diffs. It is fairly rare, but has been know to happen. 3rd gear syncos are what dies normally in a f-23 transmission. If you speed shift / power shift into third soon or later the synco is going to die.
The cavaliers do have some VATS craziness. Turning it off with HPTuners does nothing in most J-bodies... Install a new cluster, ignition switch, PCM, or BCM and the VATS will do what ever the hell it wants. Mainly make you do a relearn on the system.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
if you have a ld9 the rod bearings are the only issue worth caring about imo.
My Z is Slow (Mike) wrote:if you have a ld9 the rod bearings are the only issue worth caring about imo.
This. They like to blow out rod bearings. Not much you can do to prevent it besides swapping oil pumps with a 2.3 quad motor. It's not a direct bolt on affair.
I should also mention that I grenaded an f23 differential that way. I know your pain..
"In Oldskool we trust"
My Z is Slow (Mike) wrote:if you have a ld9 the rod bearings are the only issue worth caring about imo.
Number 3 rod bearings hate life. In some LD9 motors the oil pressure drops of greatly about 5,800 RPMS. Swapping to a 2.3l quad 4 oil pump normally solves this issue. The core shift of the block, and the poor oil gallery alignment seems to be the cause of this in mainly blocks.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Thank you for the helpful information fellas. It is greatly appreciated.
2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd CRM
Eibach Anti Roll kit, Poly motor/trans mounts, custom made CAI, Header, cutout, tuned by me with HPtuners
14.81 @ 91.09 mph 2.06 60'
97 Saturn SC1 with DOHC swap. 13.7@98mph on motor. +75 shot 12.8 @107mph
My wife had a Saturn S series that was never raced, but had that pin slide out and take out the housing under normal driving. Actually broke the pin in half.
I have never seen that happen in a J/ As long as the c clips on the end are in place it shouldnt.
Biggest weak link in Jbody's is the owners/drivers.
FU Tuning
Just keep the oil topped off and under 6k rpm and that ld9 will last...never had any issues with mine. Also as for electrical issues its one of the few newer cars that will run just fine with sensors missing...like mine doesnt have the knock sensor, o2 sensor, and IAT sensor hooked up.
But youll love the stock power output of it. ld9's are addicting
Addicted to meth wrote:
Biggest weak link in Jbody's is the owners/drivers.
truer words have
NEVER been spoken!!!!!!!!!!!!!
RIP silver car. You will be missed.
