The problem:
The driver-side window does not seal properly with the rear window, and it does not seal properly at the top-rear corner where the window meets the roof seal (because the window raises a bit too high to fit snugly). I have two Cavalier convertibles that I bought new in 1996. Both of them exhibited the same problem from day 1. Although there are several built-in adjustment mechanisms for window positioning under the door panel, neither I nor the dealer could adjust the window to stop it from leaking. I eventually figured out how to fix the problem with a simple modification to the rear limiter, and now both of my cars’ windows seal perfectly, making for a quieter, dryer ride. This problem seems to only apply to Cavalier convertibles of this generation, and only to the driver-side. I think that it was a design flaw that Chevrolet simply didn’t bother to fix before torturing their customers.

Since I could not find information on how to fix the problem on the Internet, and I saw several people asking about the same problem, I offer the following instructions.

Disclaimer: Since I could not find information on how to fix this problem on the Internet (despite seeing many people searching for a solution), I offer these instructions to be helpful, as I have benefited from others who have posted instructions. I don't guarantee the accuracy of these instructions, nor your results should you choose to follow them. Personal or property injury could result from following these instructions. Be careful. And if you don't feel comfortable doing this kind of work, please hire a trained professional.

How to modify the rear window limiter to fix the window seal:
Instructions (and photos) are based on my 1996 Cavalier convertibles but are probably applicable to all Cavalier convertibles of that generation.

This job should take about 1.5 hours.

1) Lower the window all the way and open the door all the way.
2) Remove the 4 (black) screws from bottom of the interior door panel and the two that are in the handle of the arm rest.
3) Remove interior door panel by pulling lower part away from door. Once all of the push-on clips are detached, lift the cover up vertically off the lip of the window sill. You may have to tap it with the palm of your hand to get it off the clips. Then remove the power lock plug to completely remove the interior door panel.
4) Peel back the plastic sheet of translucent covering inside the door (as shown). Try to leave all the sticky putty on the plastic, not the door. Fold it up and tape it to the door in the center middle, out of the way of where you’ll be working.
5) Slightly loosen the bolt at the top rear of the door. (Shown in picture.)
6) Remove the 10mm bolt inside the door that holds the rear height limiter on the track. You will need to adjust the window until the nut appears in the hole (as shown in picture). There is a hole in the door (toward the back center) through which you can insert a long socket wrench and undo this bolt. The limiter will fall off the track when you undo the bolt. You may want to make note of how it goes back in place since you may have to finagle it back on.
7) Remove the golden limiter assembly and bolt. And place the limiter on a work bench.
8) Remove the two Phillips-head screws from the limiter.
9) Drill two 5/32” holes in the limiter assembly below the existing holes as shown (in the middle of the space between the hole and edge).
10) Put some lock-tight glue on the screws and reattach the black plastic limiter to the limiter assembly using the new holes that you just made.
11) Reattach the limiter assembly to the rear window track. This may take some finagling. (You will have some ability to adjust this limiter up and down but you probably want to tighten it down at its lowest setting.) Make it good and tight but be careful not to strip it.
12) Re-tighten the bolt at the top rear of the door. (Loosened in step #5. Shown in picture.)
13) Check that everything works properly before you reassemble the door. You may need to make some minor adjustments to any of the adjustment points. I did not need to make any adjustments after implementing this fix. But there are adjustment points for the front and rear tracks. And there are adjustment points for an Allen wrench at the top of the door which move window pads (and the window) inward or outward. (If I remember correctly these Allen-wrench adjustments do the opposite of what you first expect. Pushing the window out, actually causes the TOP of the window to angle in towards the car, and vice versa.)
14) Reassemble the door reversing the steps 1-4.

You are very correct,I have the same problem,although I also need a new main seal,but this is a great how-to and I think I will try this.Thanks alot.I think this should be put in the library under the how-to or a sticky!!!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, September 03, 2007 4:58 PM


15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

need to replace a motor anyways so i will give this a shot when i get around to it

great info! might have to give this a try soon as my drivers side window is being a bitch with this exact same problem. kudos on the work man!




coming back in 2008...

dam wish i found this eariler its pooring rain out. but gonna give it a shot tommorrow hopefully it the rain blows in from the pass side and the d-side stays dry.

ok first off, i like to thank the one who turned me on to this particular thread, who had email of tobasco ant.and the person who made this tread origianally. you have my upmost gratitude. myself and my gfriend dug into her 98 sunfire before we found this thread and i can tell you, that you can remove the window motor without taking out the window., you have to undo the window off the two bolts at the bottom, then have someone hold it up or move it down for whatever position you need to do the rest. to replace the window motor took us 2 and half hours to take apart and 1 and half to put back together, then found out that the window wouldnt shut properly, so we tore it apart and done the regulator drill out part and that took us 3 hours, we still are adjusting it and getting ready to put the inside door part back maybe tomorrow or next day. anyway, still wanna thank you all for the info. was worthwhile joining this forum. we plan on doin the drivers side at a later date, the drill out part cause it dont close properly either.i forgot to take pictures, sorry. reddevil 333

good to hear it worked. yeah, thank razz for doing this write up. its priceless!

if you get around to it, you should post some pics of your convertible and fill out your registry

I guess the website with my how-to-repair photos went defunct. I've posted those photos here.
http://picasaweb.google.com/104746918913021986185/CavalierLeakRepair#

thanks for this article!

Great post!

I finally got around to pulling my driver's door apart to do this "fix" (as well as others.. door latch was broken)... but it looks like on the 2000 model, the stock holes are drilled just a tad lower, so there's not enough meat there on the rear height limiter to be able to drill the two extra holes.

I did notice mine was bent pretty badly... so maybe that (in addition to lowering the door height... had two washers in there, didn't line up), will fix my window issue. We'll see in a few hours!

Got mine back together... it fixed the height adjustment (no longer closes with the window onto the side of the top)... thanks!! I didn't have to drill holes, but I did straighten the metal bracket and that seems to have done the trick.

I have an issue with the window motor.. but I'll make a separate post about that.