There comes a point, when you should just give up. I wish I knew my point sooner.
I got my new wheel bearings, went to autozone in the morning to pick up the last min 30mm socket, and some lube.
Everything should be easy.
Car jacked up, 2 mins. Wheel off another 5-10. Things are going great.
Then: brake rotor rusted to hub, took out the fluid, start raising the orther side. Easy do it. Other side rotor rusted stuck as well.
After letting the fluid sit. both rotors come off.... Not too bad, only about an hour into the job...
hours 2-7.
Rotors off, axle nut off. Hub screws out. Total time for this <1hr for both sides
trying to get the hubs off, by banging, soaking, pring, using clamps. 4 hours, the things wouldn't move. the drives side nudge, maybe a crack. The pasanger side didn't even.
Tired and hopeless. I put everything back... And since I was going to switch to summer tires.
Jacked up the rear end: steelies rusted to freaking drums. An hour of pounding later: both wheels off... Summer wheels on.
roughly 8.5 hours after starting the job, only managed to swap tires and that was a pain in the ass.
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Now rotor question. I have bear decla rotors. about 2 years on them. But on both, the inside brake surface is pittted beyond what I consider reasonable. It seems like a 1/4 of the surface is just rust pits, the other 3/4 smooth.
Is this a warrent claim? I never had disks rust on the bracking surface to the post of pitting... And this isn't just around the area where the drill holes are, but every where.
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So the hubs / bearings will be shipped back. screw it, only going to have the car for a few more months. 8 years, 111k miles on it, the paint is starting to go, and when simple things like swapping wheels is a pain in the arse, you know its time to give up.
There probably is no warranty on the rotors, and its too bad you gave up, sounds like you needed a real hammer.
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maybe you need to change your brakes more often if the rotor is getting rusted to the hub lol....sucks you had such bad luck
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
rotors and pads where changed less then 2 years ago. about 1.5 years. i never have rotors pit like that before though
the rear drums were changed last summer, and the winter wheels put on like 4 months ago. Thats what you get when you live in salt country.
its very very very common fr rotors to rust to the hub. I fix cars for a living, off the top of my head I'd say 90% of the brakes I've done have the rotors rusted to hub. Beat them off with a hammer, no big deal.
As for the hub... when bolt in hubs get stuck take a prybar and big fuggin hammer and beat on the side of the flange trying to twist it, like your trying to unscrew the entire hub from the spindle. Work it sideways enough to get the prybar on the inner surface and pry/beat it off.
^the hub bolts came off. The hub, after soaking it in fluids, beating it with a hammer, trying to get pry something in between it and the steering knuck didnt even move. If I would have I would have kept going. It was just fused togthere like one gaint piece.
and here as the the pic's of the inside braking surface of the rotor. I did check my paper work, and the brakes were changed in april of 2006. No way should this happen in 2 years.
http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rotor002vr0.jpg
Its a common issue, In eastern States or provinces, Usually where alot of snow falls and Road salt is used, Also alot of times people dont take the time to have those areas cleaned out from corison. Lots of lube oil, And big A** hammer and pry bar with take care of the job.
i'm in the midwest. Normally check the car underneath after every winter. This winter was one of the snowest in wisconsin. And my car has had more rust show up on it in the past 4 months. Then in total over the past 7 years
