Ok guys, I am about to tow it to the shop, but before I do I'll see if anyone here can help a brother out. The car has had the check engine light on for over a year, but ran fine. Consistently got 26 to 27MPG, always a quick starter, and the engine was silky smooth. A week ago it started hesitating for a split second if you lightly pressed the accelerator. It only did it a few times, but it did do it. Well Thursday afternoon it whirled over a few times before it started, and I knew that was NOT the norm, especially since I had just driven the car for about 10 miles, cut it off, ran in the house for a second, and jumped back in to head out. I drove it to my wife's work, and when I left there it like to have never cranked. I thought I was going to run the battery down I cranked on it so long. Once it fired up it ran really rough with some missing, but it cleared up once the engine had ran for 30 seconds or so, then it ran just like it always has. Idled smooth, accelerated clean, and didn't miss or do anything out of the ordinary. I think the rough running after it cranked was due to it being flooded, because you could smell gas when it kept whirling over.
I drove it home, cut it off, then started it right back up without a problem. The next morning I get in it to drive to work and no dice, it wouldn't start. That afternoon I cranked on it until the battery was definitely getting low and it tried to light off and would start to run but it would die pretty quickly.
I got a scanner today and it gave me 2 P0420 codes, and one of them says bank 1. That is the only thing that showed up. I think that is for the rear O2 sensor by the Cat???
I don't think that is my cranking problem. The check engine light has been on for over a year and that was the only code, so I assume that is what made the check engine light come on. So what do I check? Already replaced the crank sensor and the cam sensor. It's turning over good, and getting fuel because you can definitely smell it. But now it doesn't ever hint at starting no matter how much you whirl it over.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks
try and get a real data scan tool will tell you if a sensor isn't reading right
when was you last oil change???? crank sensor could be gummed up if its been awhile
on a 2.4 i believe the crank sensors right beside the starter and on a 2.2 its on the back of the block near the oil filter
JBO since July 30, 2001
I changed the crank sensor already.
Hello, maybe the problem is your map sensor, that sensor determines the ignition time and the fuel presure, bad ignition time=more whirling to start, and much or poor fuel presion=Drowned or poor in gasoline motor (to much gas odor) test if your map is the problem, various map sensor's not send a error code to the ecu or scan tool im 90% sure this is you problem, i had the same problem in my 96 2.2 cavy but in my case the conector is in reverse position after reconect it.
The Symptoms of a defective map sensor are: when it doesn't fully damaged excesive vibration of te engine until the rpm get hi by press the acelerator ,excesive whirling to start or start but inmediately stop(even if you press the accelerator) and no fuel or execive fuel pressure.
I hope this can help you and resolve you problem soon.
PD sorry for my bad engish, im from mexico and don't speak & write in english very well.
Map sensor eh? Well it is certainly worth a shot because the car is worthless to me now sitting in the driveway on jackstands!!! I'll do a little research and see if I can find the location of the map sensor, and call the parts store to see what kind of money I am looking at. Thanks...........
Where the hell is the map sensor? I went and got a manual, and on the 2.4L it shows it on the lower right corner of the TB. Mine is not there?
It is there. There is a hose coming off the front of the intake manifold going into the map sensor. Check that hose for cracks.
FU Tuning
Ok, found it. Vacuum line looks ok. Is there a resistance value for this sensor. I'd like to test it before I replace it.
ninjaman wrote:Where the hell is the map sensor? I went and got a manual, and on the 2.4L it shows it on the lower right corner of the TB. Mine is not there?
The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor send information to the pcm like atmospheric pressure an vacuum in the engie also control the ignition timing, the car can work whitout this sensor but fuel economu drecrease and rpm are a little hi, and in mostly cars is ubicated nearly Thortle body or at the end of some hose of the TB, a vacuum leak of this hose cause erratic rpm's and cars shut off when the speed decreases and some times the car crank but wont start or start and stop imediately, but i think in mostly cavy have no hose the sensor is directly mount in the TB.
Here an image an Part Numbre of the 2.4 Z24 Map sensor.AC DELCO Part # 2134433 you can chek the price in www.rockauto.com
Man you must check your IAC valve too, some times is fully of carbon and need to be cleaned to proper function This sensor is Mounted in the TB and clean it whit carburator cleaner.
Is it getting spark or the injectors pulsing? Fuel pump kicking on?
It's getting fuel for sure, you can smell it everytime you try to crank it. So something is not letting it fire????
Should I change the map sensor?
The map isn't going to cause your problem. If you unlplug either the map, iac, iat, or cam sensor the car will still run. The crank sensor i know if it isn't pluged in it will not get spark or fuel. Not sure if it would go bad if it would get fuel and no spark. make sure the plug going to the idi cover is plugged in good. If so check pcm fuses, test the coil packs under the white cover and then have the ignition module tested.
To check for spark though thake the cover off the motor. The the plastic boots of the coil housing and lay the silver tips close to the cam tower where you know it will spark and see what happens while someone cranks it.
don't mean to double post but it sounds like the ignition module or coils are breaking down. My 2200 i pulled out did the same thing for a year till i swaped the 2.4 in. It would take for ever to start but would run. Here a wire going to the ignition module was bare. And the coils or module was bad. Not sure as i switched it all out on another motor before i took and put the 2200 in a 00 fire i had baught.
