OK, so car has a bad growling noise that gets louder the faster you go. When the turn the wheel left it goes away, but right it is the same if not worse. So, from what i read..sounds like a bad wheel bearing. So, i jacked it up, and started to check for play in the wheel....the passenger side had a very small amount, and a post i read made it sound like it would be that side bad....well, i replaced the passenger side with no luck. So, i am assuming i had bad info and its the drivers side that is bad....

BUT, my question...when i got the new one from the parts store, in the box was the wheel bearing hub assembly and a bag with a seal and a o-ring.... what exactly are these for? when i removed the ones one on the car assumed bad......it didn't have any of these parts there.....so im assuming they are for a different application?

can someone confirm this for me if they are needed.......

also, with my noise going away turning left....is it really the drivers side that should be bad?



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Um, I DON'T NEED NO SIGNATURE!!!!!

those are normal in case the Race or seal went out because "technically" replacing the bearing you need to remove the whole shaft and strut and BS if the "seal" is fine your OK but if it is bad and you dont replace it you will be having that same sound from your bearing in like 10,000 miles....I know because i never wanted to do it right so lets just say I am pretty fast and changing wheel bearing now


Its all about the pain...The Jewelry and Ink are just souvinirs

If you bought a new wheel bearing hub kit. Make sure you use the O ring and and seal, Their is a reason why they are includded with the kit. I just did the front bearing hub kit on my 01 cavalier pretty easy fix, Heres a list of tools you i will need

1. 30mm deep impact socket 1/2 drive. Also need a piece of pipe or break bar break the nut free Or impact gun or electric one works well.

2. Also decent set socket set fairly decent hammer.

3. Also penitrating oil spray those sized bolts & nuts . Tube High temp bearing grease.

4. 3/8's hex socket to remove the caliper bolts.

5. Tie wire string to tie up the brake caliper.

6. container white out or chalk stick, to mark the bolt position on strut shock.

That should be all u need, Pretty easy fix, Once u do the first one the next on will be easy.

Good Luck.

okay, so oring and seal needed...but again, i don't understand the seal itself....where does it install into. same for the oring. some explanation here would be nice. i will say the old ones on the car did not have a oring or a seal in there on the old ones.





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Um, I DON'T NEED NO SIGNATURE!!!!!

seal goes on the back side of the spindle.

14.82 @ 97 mph

ok, so if the seal isn't installed...just causes premature failure on bearing assembly i assume?



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Um, I DON'T NEED NO SIGNATURE!!!!!

Went to the store and found 2 options, a cheaper one for $100 that has the seal and ring, and another from SKF that's $135 that doesn't include these.

There's a note included that says they redesigned it to not need the seal anymore.

Did anyone use this before? Sounds like a better bet since I hate putting seals on.

3 years on a wheel bearing that didnt use the seal or O-Ring, an accident on that side, autocross and sliding sideways due to poor weather later, mine was loose, I dont think the seal makes much difference to be honest.

Hey quick and I hope easy question -

When I torqued the axle nut I had the car back on the ground. Is it critically important that the nut be tightened with the car still raised, or does it not really matter?

I don't think it matters if you had it up or down when your torqued it as long as you had it snugged before you put it down.

BTW, the symptoms you are describing point to the DRIVER's side wheel bearing being hosed. Turning left will take the weight off the driver's side, turning right will put more weight on the driver's side.

If you read the hayne's manual, after you put the new bearing/hub assembly back on and get the 3 bolts that hold it to the knuckle tight you can put the brake rotor, pads and caliper back on and stick a screwdriver in the vanes of the brake rotor which will brace it against the caliper so you can torque the axle nut before you put the car back on the ground. That way you don't have to pop out the wheel's center cap.

Shouldn't take you more than an hour or so to change out a wheel bearing on a J-body, it's pretty straightforward.


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Sleeper style, they don't see it coming that way.