I think I need to replace my fuel filter but am not ready to take the plunge and have been advised to test the fuel pressure first to be sure that is a problem. I can't seem to locate a port on the fuel rail that I can connect the pressure tester to. Am I over looking it?? I can't find my Haynes manual, I think I left it at work and will check for it next week. Any help you ca give me will be greatly appreciated! Thanks
TJ

1997 Cav 2.2L @135k miles.

i'm not sure but i think for the 2.2 you need to make a t-connection in the fuel line. there is no nice easy way of doing it.



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Thanks Rich, I was afraid of that... Do you have any tips to make replacing the fuel pump any easier? I am praying that my Haynes manual is at work because I don't want to buy another one. If I remember correctly it is in the fuel tank so I'm sure there are a few connections I have to remove to drop the tank and access the pump.

Why do you think you need a new pump? Also, in your first post you said fuel filter.

To test the fuel pressure, you can buy a test kit that comes with an adapter that connects to the fuel line at the filter. You might be able to get a loaner, but I bought mine at Harbor Freight. You "can" splice in a T, but that's kinda the hard way and I wouldn't recommend it considering how infrequently you need to test fuel pressure. Amazingly, these cars don't have too many pumps fail. I think the pressure is around 30 psi and I've read they'll still run decently below 20 psi.

2.2 97 Cavalier......the "Crapalier"

Yes, I'm sorry... I think it is the pump not the filter. I replaced the filter a year or two ago as a first step and thought that might solve my problem. I will explain in more detail:

1997 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 135000 miles

My 97 Cav has been a great running vehicle, have had very few issues over the past 11+ years we've owned it.. the problem I have is that there is a medium-high pitched whine/vibration sound coming from the back of the car... it happens about 80% of the time and when the engine is going to die, the pitch of the sound increases and then stops and the car conks out about 5 seconds later. It almost always happens if I have to stop and go a few too many times, sit idling at red lights, or go thru the drive thru... it just doesn't like sitting still . I'm not sure if the fuel pump is getting hot and stops pumping fuel or what. Most times I can let the car sit in the off position for a couple minutes and it will restart and I can head on home, sometimes it stops repeatedly and I just want to drive it into the lake.

I had a really hard time getting the fuel filter off for some reason. I hadn't seen anything about attaching the pressure tester to the fuel line at the filter; do you have any pictures of this or steps on what I need to do? I called about loaning the tester from AutoZone and it is a $150 refundable deposit so I supposed I could check that out. I am just thinking it is something electrical in the fuel system because a) it stops feeding fuel to the engine and b) when you press the break pedal or turn on the blinker, the whine changes frequency when current is drawn elsewhere in the vehicle (if that makes sense...). It just seems like all signs are point to the fuel pump and as bad as I don't want to replace it, I sure don't want to pay someone else to do it! I drove the car yesterday a little and about 35 miles today had no problem with the engine cutting out but the persistent whine coming from the back end of the car was ever present (it is most noticeable when the engine is at idle speed).

Well, that does sound like a possible bad fuel pump. Electric pumps do get loud when they're on their way out.

If the problem started since replacing the filter, it wouldn't hurt to replace it again. I read recently about a guy who cut open a 6 month old filter and it was packed with crap. It only takes one bad tank of gas that's loaded down with sediment to clog the filter. That would also make your pump work harder and therefore be noisier.

I don't have any pictures of the pressure test kit, but it's really simple to use. You just pull the filter and the adapter fits inline. Below are the specs from my Haynes manual.

Key on, engine not running.........41-47 psi
Engine idling..................................
with pressure regulator hose connected.........31-44 psi
with pressure regulator hose disconnected........42-50psi

Good luck! Changing the pump will be a PITA, but not too hard as long as you get the car jacked up high enough and run as much gas out of it as you can.

2.2 97 Cavalier......the "Crapalier"

ok, thanks so much for your feedback on this!! I'll see if I can locate a pump and run the gas out of it and see where it gets me . I'll try to take pictures in case I run into trouble and need some help on the specifics. Have a good weekend!