On Tuesday I rinsed all the salt off of my car, after that I drove it about a 1/2 a mile to dry it off and parked it. Two hours later I went to start it up. The engine is cranking but will not catch. My first thought was the timing chain, but the dealer has already ruled that out by looking at it. He said the chain is not broken and on tight. They said they are going to look at the head gasket next. I don't think that is the problem because my car has never had an issue with over heating. Any opinions would be great. My car is a 2002 Cavalier with a 2.2 ecotec. The engine has 148,000 miles on it.

Thank You

Hopefully they checked for fuel pump running and spark before they start digging in to the engine.

i would think so they are a very good GM dealer. My fuel pump is 2 years old. Any other ideas?

anyone?

Not trying to bash this particular dealer, but if I were you, I would ask to make sure thy checked the fuel and ignition systems before they blame the engine. After all, it's you that is paying for their time.

I Agree with you 100% chris, no matter where i take my car dealer or anywhere else i always ask questions it's the only way to go in my opinion that way you know exactly what was done and in a lot of cases it also prevents you from being charged for any unnecessary repairs which a lot of places will try and talk you into just because it may look to them like it needs it.

Yeah Bill, and it's funny, because I work in auto service and repair. But I see so many people that come to our shop and tell horror stories about how they got ripped off or they bring a printout of a list of things supposedly wrong with their car when half the things listed aren't defective. My partner and I always try to do the best for our customers, just like any business should, but there are a lot of shady people in this world, and not just in the auto repair business. I guess I just don't like seeing people lose their hard earned money. And sometimes, to be honest, these auto repair guys aren't trying to rip anyone off, a lot of times they simply don't know what they are doing. We don't always have a fix to everyone's car either, but if we can't figure it out, they leave with their car and no charge to them.

Right Chris, and that's as it should be as far as the printout and half the things listed not being wrong i believe it. I couldn't agree more with what you said about a lot of shady people in this world, there are people out there try and get every single penny they can out of you whether your car needs it or not. I sometimes wish they allowed customers to watch what was being done to their car just as an extra measure of protection against being conned if you will into having repairs done that aren't necessary. But it's like you said it's not just the auto repair industry it's any industry no matter who you deal with, you have to ask questions you have to get to know the people that are working on your car preferably on a first name basis, auto repair guys not knowing what they are doing in my opinion there are far too many out there that fit that category. That's why i am very leary about who works on my car, it's too bad your not In Arizona Chris you'd definitely be getting my business.

Car needs fuel, air and spark to run. Check those.




Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.

i talked to the dealer today. my car is getting plenty of fuel. they said they got the compression in all 4 cylinders to go from 0 to 75 by replacing the tensioner. so they think the chain skipped time. they now have to figure out how to get the compression up to 100. they think some valves might be bent. anyone have any ideas?

I'm pretty sure if all the chain did was skip time nothing else your valves are fine, now if the chain had actually snapped and broken then probably you would have bent/destroyed some valves but i don't think so if the chain just skipped time but i'm probably wrong about that so don't quote me on it.

In your first post, you said the dealer told you the chain was tight, and they were going to look at the head gasket next. Now you say they replaced the tensioner and your compression changed? If the chain was tight in the first place, then changing the tensioner wouldn't affect the compression. If the compression was 0, then one or both of the cams were out of time, and yes you could have some bent valves.

They shouldn't be telling you they "think" some of the valves are bent. They should be doing a cylinder leakdown test so they "know" where the compression is leaking. This is assuming that the cams are now timed correctly.

Thanks for the clarification there Chris i didn't think it was possible to bend valves if the chain simply skipped time but didn't snap and break but i guess it is.

Bill wrote:Thanks for the clarification there Chris i didn't think it was possible to bend valves if the chain simply skipped time but didn't snap and break but i guess it is.

When the cams are timed properly, there isn't a lot of room to begin with, so if the timing is off a couple teeth, usually the exhaust valves get hit by the piston. During the exhaust stroke the piston is coming up towards the valves and the exhaust valve is closing, and when a chain or belt jumps time the cam timing becomes late. When that happens the exhaust valve to piston clearance will decrease. If it decreases enough, then the damage happens.

the damage meaning bent valves, car stalling having a hard time starting, and ultimately blowing the engine entirely if you do nothing.

well here is what happened....the tensioner screwed up and the chain skipped. all of my valves were damaged. so i need a new tensioner, valves, and i am replacing the head gasket also. goo old chevrolet.

Oh Joy, just what you always wanted NOT! Good luck with it man.

i just want another two years out of this thing....i figure then i can afford a car payment. definately cant afford one now. better of getting this thing running right.

i'm in the same boat as you Jimmy, at this point i'm shooting for at least 225 possibly 250 out of mine but it's unlikely i'm sure because i'm still on the stock timing chain and i doubt they last anywhere near that long.

Btw, i'm only at 137,767 now so if i can get at least another 115k out of the stock tc that will put me at right around 252 253k by which point i will have more than gotten my use out of the car.

i have 148,000 now. the most expensive repair until now was a fuel pump. this repair will be alot but if i can get another 2 years out of this car and then trade it in i will get my money's worth out of it. i should have the car back on friday.

just an update....
car is still at dealer, but it is running. they are trying to figure out why the hearing a ticking sound. when they fix that ill have the car back.

I would be ordering performance cams/ cam, larger valves, heavier springs while it all has to be done anyways, mind as well upgrade.
Maybe even do some match porting while they got it all apart.


My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch in and dual 2 inch out muffler Trans Am muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a very long 2 1/4 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.