Need steps to doing it. The more tips, the better.
thanks in advance.
What year... they where different (and better) in 96
When you get a new timing chain tensioner it should have a lock pin in it wich will make it much easier to install..
Its actually kinda a bitch to do.... (I only know all this from when I replaced mine when we installed my cams)
first thing ya have to do is drain your oil..
then ya jack the front passenger side of the car up and remove the wheel and the inner fender plastic, then the belt, then the crank pully and harmonic balancer
Theres a good chance you will have to place a jack under your lower motor mount and unbolt your top motor mount so you can position the engine as needed.
Then you have to unbolt all the damn little bolts that hold the timing chain cover on... (cant remember the size but I highly recommend one of those ratcheting box wrenches) im sure someone else here will remember the size.
once the cover is off you will see you chain and tensioner.... when you unbolt the old one make damn sure that the chain doesnt skip any teeth on anything..... it might be a good idea to time the engine at #1 TDC before removing it just in case...
then you bolt the new one back in making sure all the slack in the chain is still in between the crank and exhaust cam (and still timed correctly), and once its in you just pull the retainer out and the shoe will snap out and hold the chain...
assuming you timed the engine (you really should) it wont be a bad idea to turn it over my hand and make sure the lines all line up again to make sure everything is OK...
Then you put it all back together and add new oil...
It might not be a bad idea to replace your water pump and maybee even your chain (wich require more steps) while your in there also.
As for removing the alternator.... I dont remember if you have to for sure or not...
Also... you should replace your timing cover gasket.... I would recommend one of those heavy blue felcro ones.
good luck and have fun
WEEBEL - this is an 2002 cavalier Z24 - still go in by removing tire, innner plastic peice, balancer?
I read in the maintenance FAQ section where on how to repalce the water pump...
That guy says to remove the exhause manifold and o2 sensor - IS this required?
yea, that's a good read through if you're going to do this kinda work. you only NEED to remove the exhaust manifold and the o2 sensor if you're going to replace the water pump. it's a very good idea to do that while you're in there. you only need to worry aboug the exhaust and draining the coolant n stuff if you're going to replace the water pump, otherwise it's not an issue.
if you DO do the water pump, it's a good idea to replace the thermostat too, its rite there. also a good idea to replace all the gaskets in that area, good idea to replace the chain, and the guides too.
you have to remove the upper engine mount and the upper engine mount bracket that bolts to the block, in order to get the timing cover off. you will need to jack the motor up a bit to get the bracket bolts out. dont have to remove the alternator.
i've had this all apart more times than i'd care to remember over the past 6 months. all in all its not hard. but its a pain in the ass.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Saturday, December 12, 2009 11:00 AM
let timing chain snap
piston will smash valve
drop motor
replace with L61
done
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
wish weeble would of wrote that on the thread i have with the 2.4 valve stuck, we just replaced the motor all went well, but that timing tensioner is a bitch
Hey, so I got it tore apart last night and here is what I noticed:
Slack up top in between the exhaust/intake cams - I could make it slap against the top guide and get a decent noise out of it.
is that usually where the noise comes from?
Second, the tensioner is out more then 1.7 mm - its out pretty FAR, but if I presson the top of the shoe, it the tensioner still pushed out some more. this normal?
My gears look good. worn, like they should be fore 150k.
On the right side, where the guide is, there is a pretty good mark where the chain looks to have been rubbing.
With the tensioner fully extended, should there be slack?
Are the guides really needed?
There should be NO slack in between the upper cams. That slack will be making the noise (I just replaced my entire assembly of timing chain, tensioner, guides, water pump and thermostat). The only part that can have slack is between the tensioner and the water pump, which is the area that the tensioner will tighten. The guides are needed as they will help to remove any additional slack, but it's crucial to have your slack 98% gone before you even insert them.
IMO if you are going to replace the tensioner, I'd replace the entire timing chain kit. Saves time and frustration later down the line.
As for the tensioner extension, check to see if you can retract it and keep it like that. The tensioner should only have two extension lengths; closed flat and extended. Anything else means that your extension is shot.
ShiftyCav wrote:thats probably the dumbest thing i have ever heard. you should take that serpentine belt and wrap it around your neck.
fits1 how bad was this to do? Any tools that need rented? The cover on my car is leaking oil pretty bad and needs replaced. I'm hoping this is a job I can do in my garage over a day or so. Thanks!
the only thing you really need to rent would be a pulley/harmonic balancer puller to pull off the crank pulley. other than that its just a jack and a bunch of hand tools. i've gotten it down to a 2 hour job in my driveway. getting behind the cover, doing some work, and re-installing everything. but that's with the assistance of air tools.
Jon D wrote:the only thing you really need to rent would be a pulley/harmonic balancer puller to pull off the crank pulley. other than that its just a jack and a bunch of hand tools. i've gotten it down to a 2 hour job in my driveway. getting behind the cover, doing some work, and re-installing everything. but that's with the assistance of air tools.
I think I should have all the hand tools I would need. Jack, Jackstands, Socket set and a wrench set. Are there any tricks to reinstalling the crank pulley? I'm sure pulling it off is not a big deal.
if you have the puller, or have had it off recently it's no biggie. if it's never been removed it can be a pain in the ass. mine took a good amount of effort to get off the first time (with the screw on puller), but i replaced it with an alluminum one so it's cake on and off now. i usually just tap it back on with a soft rubber mallet.
Jon D wrote:if you have the puller, or have had it off recently it's no biggie. if it's never been removed it can be a pain in the ass. mine took a good amount of effort to get off the first time (with the screw on puller), but i replaced it with an alluminum one so it's cake on and off now. i usually just tap it back on with a soft rubber mallet.
Good to know. The car has 130K on it and it's never been off the car. Where did you get the aluminum pulley? There was a member on here making them right? Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? Water pump isn't leaking so I'm not going to mess with it. If it aint broke.....
i bought my pulley off ebay. stock sized lightweight. it was really cheap, so i figured i'd do it while i was in there. bought mine
from this guy he also sells underdrive crank pullies alternator pullies some engine mounts and strut bars.
i would do the water pump just because its such a pain in the ass to tear it all back apart again, but thats your call. if all you're doing is changing the cover or the gasket then that's really it. if you're gonna start replacing parts that run off the chain then i'd go all out. replace the chain, tensioner, guides, cam and crank gears, etc. but thats just me. i reccomend fel-pro gaskets.
Its not too bad.
What I found to be a b*#*$ was the bolts that you cant get to - and the only way to get to them is to remove the upper mount entirely and even then you have to jack up the side of engine. I did right on the bottom mount.
Also, the 22 or so little timing cover bolts - they are annoying. and make sure when you put the cover back on -on either side of the crank are some holes to fits onto shafts on either side (haha i just typed that and decided it was too funny to delete). dont tighten them all down till you are sure.
......It ran me about 180 from advanced auto for all the parts. you can probaly get away with not doing 1 or 2 of the guides (advanced cahrged 15 each) , but I figured might as well do it - im sick of the noise and dont want it to be my stupidity for not doing it when i had the cover off.
Cool guys thanks alot for the help. I'll look into that lightened crank pulley and the water pump replacement. My only concern right now is that I don't have air tools so I'm unsure if I can get the gasket surfaces clean enough so that they will seal. The last thing I want is to have to tear it all apart a second time because I have an exhaust or coolant leak.
Get a haynes manual. It has the steps to do this. As for slack between the cam gears, if everything is lined up in the timed position there should be no slack, but if you are turning the crank, or even start the car slack will show up in between the cam gears, but should go away once everything is back to the timed position again.
FU Tuning
Not a Expert per Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:Get a haynes manual. It has the steps to do this. As for slack between the cam gears, if everything is lined up in the timed position there should be no slack, but if you are turning the crank, or even start the car slack will show up in between the cam gears, but should go away once everything is back to the timed position again.
Even though your not an expert I'll take your advice
I actually do have the Haynes manual for up through 98 and downloaded the one that was posted in the forums. Seems the steps are the same. I usually find that the manuals tend to leave out some information and I normally just get myself into trouble.
Just so I'm clear : I should be able to do the timing cover, associated timing chain parts, water pump and thermostat with just the very basic hand tools and jackstands?
Is there anything else I should do? Crank seal? Car has 130K on it.
I really appreciate the help guys. Your potentially saving me over $1000 bucks if I can pull this off. The dealer quoted me over $800 for the timing cover and chain parts.
Yes basic tool. The biggest wrench I can think of is a 18mm for the 3 bolts that hold the upper motor mount bracket to the block. 15mm for the nuts on the upper motor mount to chassis.10mm for the 25 bolts holding the timing chain cover to the housing.
Relacing the seal opn the timing chain cover is not a bad idea. best to do while off the car anyways.
FU Tuning
