randizzle wrote:there is a lot that could be wrong. the hub is one of them, the tie rod could have been damaged, the control arm could be bent, the strut could be messed up, etc., etc.Supposedly all that stuff is ok, according to the shop that looked at the car, just that the wheel bearing is bad. However, I thought that if the bearing was bad there would be some play in the wheel like you could rock it up and down when you put it up on jackstands but it seems solid to me. Just asking here because I can replace the wheel bearing myself for less than $100 instead of the $281 the shop wants.
EYEOPNR (sleepercavy) wrote:just because there is no play in the wheel bearing doesnt mean it isnt noisy... hitting the curb could have damaged something inside the bearing that made it noisy...OK, thats what I was wondering about, if there should be play in it or it can still be bad. Don't know how difficult a job it is to replace it but I'm going to try.
Matt Linke wrote:I greased the axle before I put it back in (cause it was a PAIN to get out).OK, thanks. Anyone know what the axel nut size is. I was told 30mm so I rented that socket from autozone, but it doesnt seem like the right size. Is it 29mm? Or is it standard size?
I also used BLUE Locktite on the bolts (it never hurts to be sure).
I had the exact same thing happen to me as you described. I replaced the wheel bearings and got it aligned and all was well.
You can re-use the axle lock nut (I did) but if it isnt recommended I would replace it (i bought a couple from napa for like $10 each). I dropped my axle when i pulled the motor and screwed up the threads, so I had no choice.Its not necessary, but I would still advocate it.
porter92 wrote:It is a 29mm, I just discovered. I purchased the Timkin hub/bearing assembly from autozone and found the seal is seperate from the assembly, which wasnt what I was expecting. Does anyone know: Should you have the seal pressed into the assembly prior to installing the thing back on the steering knuckle or just put the seal into the knuckle and slide on the assembly and bolt it up ? Also should I fill up the beveled side of the seal with grease (chassis grease I assume) prior to putting it together on the hub/bearing assembly?Matt Linke wrote:I greased the axle before I put it back in (cause it was a PAIN to get out).OK, thanks. Anyone know what the axel nut size is. I was told 30mm so I rented that socket from autozone, but it doesnt seem like the right size. Is it 29mm? Or is it standard size?
I also used BLUE Locktite on the bolts (it never hurts to be sure).
I had the exact same thing happen to me as you described. I replaced the wheel bearings and got it aligned and all was well.
You can re-use the axle lock nut (I did) but if it isnt recommended I would replace it (i bought a couple from napa for like $10 each). I dropped my axle when i pulled the motor and screwed up the threads, so I had no choice.Its not necessary, but I would still advocate it.
randizzle wrote:make sure to torque the spindle nut to the correct torque spec.Thanks but whats the correct torque spec for the axel nut? In the Chilton manual it says 185lbs in the text and 192lbs in the diagram (pg. 8-12)? Also, anybody know about the seal as I posted yesterday?