So here is the deal...

My i let the car sit all winter, finally got in on the road a couple weeks ago. Had absolutley no problems with it for the 2 weeks. in that time I refilled the tank and just recently (3/4 gas still) that sar stalls when i come to a stop. AIt also sounds like it is struggling (about to stall) when i slow down to the light or slow down to make a turn.

HOWEVER...that car starts up fine with no problems, it sounds like it is revving normally ( no tackometre but sounds fine) but as soon as i put it into gear (reverse, drive, 1 or 2) it jerks for a split second then completely dies. but then i few minutes later it will start up fine, and drive away with no problems what so ever. Then is does it again later.

I have only driven it the one day with these problems, it has been sitting since. Possible bad gass???

I would guess fuel pump.

which one? isnt there an intank pump and the one under the hood? I know my friends car has both.

Nick wrote:I would guess fuel pump.

wouldn't be my first guess. actually, i wouldn't think this at all. with a fuel pump, you'd have more issues at speed than at coming down to an idle. no, it sounds more like your torque converter lockup solenoid is sticking/bad.



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My first guess is IAC.



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Rich Grayo Jr is completely right, your torque lock up solenoid is is sticking.
I had this happen to me at a busy intersection last year and it didn't disengage after unplugging the solenoid, I jacked the front wheels off the pavement so the car wouldn't stall and spun the wheels up to 50mph and back to idle a couple times to get going again.
The solenoid is fairly easy to replace by removing the transmission side pan inside the drivers wheel well to access it.

thank you thank you very much Rich Grayo Jr and Lewis.

So before i start anything, are you saying to jack it up and spin the wheels and such and that may fix it? or are you saying to just replace the solenoid right off the start?

Again, the car seemed to work for a bit, then crapped out again. I left the car for the night and just drove it home with NO trouble stopping and slowing down several times. Should I still replace it?

Thanks guys

No, I Meant if the solenoid happens to stick on you again and will not disengage even after cooling down and you are stranded, an option is to jack the wheels..It can save you a tow truck bill.(once it disengages unplug the solenoid)

I suggest just unplugging the solenoid until it is fixed, you will not even notice any difference if driving in town but your rpm will be higher on the highway or above 45 mph, but your stalling will be gone. I have seen a new GM transmission filter and fluid replacement solve the problem before leading me to believe the issue is to do with heat or pressure in some way, it could be a good idea to try this before throwing any money at a solenoid replacement.

How do i know when is "disengages". What does that mean exactly. Because ill do what your saying right aways, just not sure. ( sorry, i just started driving and know very little about cars and all the terminology)

and unplug it when the car is off or on?

When I say "disengage" I basically mean "turn off", you will know if it is turned off if the car will idle in drive or reverse normally with the brakes on while the car is jacked (turn off the car and unplug)
I suggest unplugging the solenoid before you start the car first in the morning or when the car is cool, do you know where the plug is?

I dont KNOW where the plug is but im fairly certain i pulled the right one. is it the blue plug on the right side attached to the transmision?

The reason i think this was the one is becase i remember the previous owner talking to me about a problem and rather getting it fixed he said he just unplugged something and it was a simple fix for the time being. He said it shouldnt be any real issue. I just went along with it because i didnt know exactly what he was talking about.

a couple weeks ago, (days before my car started having problems), a friend was looking under my hood to help find where where coolent was leaking from and he saw something unplugged, so he pointed it out and plugged it in for me. I thought nothing of it at the time.

I just got back from unplugging it now. My car was driving and breaking fine, so i turned it off and unplugged it again, just like it was when i bought the car.

after unplugging it, it still went into gear fine, but i havent driven it since. Is that the plug you were talkig about? and do you think i should be good to drive now?

Yeah that is the plug I am talking about and that is why the seller had it unplugged, you should be good to go now.
You should still have it replaced eventually but the car could be driven it's entire life with it unplugged, but your mileage will be less driving over 50mph so it will pay for itself overtime in fuel savings.

Alright, awesome, now i can start my audio build and interior changes with confidence that the car actually works. thanks alot.

No problem

Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:

Nick wrote:I would guess fuel pump.

wouldn't be my first guess. actually, i wouldn't think this at all. with a fuel pump, you'd have more issues at speed than at coming down to an idle. no, it sounds more like your torque converter lockup solenoid is sticking/bad.

Our 4.6L Expedition did this for about 2 weeks before the fuel pump finally quit and it wouldn't start. That is why I suggested it.