Please don't laugh at me for this stupid mistake, but I left my fogs on during school, no big deal I just got a jump. But in a rush I put the jumper cable on the opposite terminals, negative to positive and vise versa. When I turned the key it started smoking a little until I took the clamps off. It make a sound like the seloniod was going when I turned the key. When I finally jumped it the right way the battery light was on and my volt meter was only reading 12 instead of 14. The car stalled most likely because it didn't have the juice to pump enough fuel. I trickle charged it all day but it didn't improve anything. Please gimme some possibilities on where to start to fix this.
Well, if the volt meter is reading 12, then you probably fired your alternator. I would pull that off, take it to a parts store, and have them test it. All I can say is next time, take your time and accidents wont happen. Unfortunatly, you learned the hard way, but we all start somewhere.
Best case, you only damaged a few items. Worst case, you fried a few modules (I always had oh so much fun trying to fix no starts after tow companies jumepd cars wrong).
I would go with that as well. Or you may have slightly fried the battery or fired a cable but I wouldn't worry just yet do check the alt first. Where was the smoke coming from that would help you and us target the problem area faster as well if the alternator is not the problem.
Mistakes happen I once closed my hood with a flashlight laying on the engine I felt like a retard.
Good luck.
I accidentally the SHIFT LIGHT!!!!!!!!!!
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
I feel like the smoke was closer to the battery but I could be wrong I was the only one to see it and I was in the drivers seat. If I'm right and it was around the battery what do you guys think it could be.
If it was around the battery then you probably toasted a power or ground wire. But its hard to tell since ur just thinking thats where it came from. Start off by getting the alternator checked. I am willing to bet you fried that. Might as well take the battery with u too. And as mitdr said, lets just hope you didnt fry and modules. If the car ran fine just the battery light was on, and at 12 volts, then im willing to bet that u just fried the alternator and or the battery.
Good lord let's hope so. I don't even know what a module is. I'll do this first thing after school and let you know how it goes
Modules as in the On-board computer and such. Was there any check engine lights. I will assume no because you said just the battery light was on.
No check engine light came on which is actually odd because it was on for my exhaust before the incident
Well, its not odd, especially if you killed your battery. U just pretty much reset the computer, so no biggie. But if it ran fine just that one light, I would bet your okay, and just killed one or both of the others (Battery or alternator).
Assuming thats the issue how can I have a rough estimate on how much of my Christmas money I'm gonna have to spend?
Well for one taking the battery and alternator to autozone or advance and get both tested(FREE).However depending if either are toast or both those cost are simply to look up online on either site b4 you go!Batteries are about the same cost btwn both stores above depends on what level u want.Alternator prices may be about the same as well.I would just check the two out on prices.I will say walmart is the cheapest on the everstart battery and is rated very well and u can save about 20 dollars.Example batt for my trk 100.00 autozone duralast gold(I prefer) the walmart was about 20 or so less.But had less cca than the version I got.Check ur cables and ground wires(melted ends or rubber around them).Sounds like u did not blow any fuses tho.
A good battery will run about 60-70 bucks. Dont cheap out and get a used "rebuilt" one for the 30 bucks, because as the saying goes, you always get what you pay for, and it may last a month, and it may last a year who knows. its kinda a coin toss with those.
The alternator depending on the engine your car has and where you go can and probably will run in the mid to high 100's and even tip the 200 dollar range again, depending on where u go and which engine u have and such. I would recommend tho, going with the best warranty you can get on them. I know autozone give a limited lifetime warranty. For the price and if its truely lifetime, you cant ever go wrong. Goodluck, and keep us posted.
I'm outside now posting from my phone I have a multimeter on the battery and its reading 12.5. When I start the car that number DOES NOT change. I'm assuming because the alternator is the problem.
Wo braking news it looks like the red wire coming from the Alternator going to what I think is the starter is completely fried! I unbolted it and it just fell of half way to the starter
It's a fusible link. The guy at autozone told me so. Just need to figure out how to replace it.
Well, that can be done two ways, IIRC you can buy the OEM fusible link and replace that from GM but that will cost you. I know Napa sells fusible link by the foot so you may wanna look into that also, and pretty much all you will need is some ends and such, crimp the ends you need onto the link, and ur done. Replace the wire that fell off and the fusible link and go from there. But either way still have your stuff tested. I have come across people from autozone who dont know squat and every now and then you will come across someone who knows what they are talking about. I forgot all about the link myself.
Okay ill make one more post to confirm everything is fixed, but until then just wanted to say thanks so much, I really appreciate all the help. And merry Christmas!
Replacing the fusible link is easy.For the wire that is broken cut the end for a clean connection and if you have to make a new end going to the alternator get new wire and crimp a new end on it.Now with the two pieces of wire get 2 butt connectors(electrical tube connection) slide on the wire 1 end and crimp.I suggest buying some heat shrink tubing(autozone) and slide it over the end you just crimped.Next slide the NEW fusible link end wire into the end and crimp it to that.Next slide the heat shrink over the entire butt connector and use a lighter to seal the conn( make sure it completely covers the end.Next for the end connecting at the alter put a butt conn on it and crimp.Then slide the heat shrink over it (but not covering connector) and then crimp the last end of the fusible to it.Slide the heat shrink over that and heat.Just heat it to shrink it tight over the connector.It is simple to do,just make sure u buy the heat shrink large enuff to cover the connector it comes in various sizes.That is all this is required and I sure hope this book of explaining is clear enuff to understand.
Also, check all of your underhood and under dash fuses as well.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!