the dog bone looking mount under the engine toward the passenger side it is
lately my cars been "jerky" when im in gear at low rpms, i had it on the lift at school and seen that mount was cracked and looking about to snap in half....my questions are
1 can that be welded? since the rubber parts are still good
2 if not how much new ones cost? looking for stock one
3 how hard is that to take off and put new one on? i sorta forgot what it looked like and not going under the car right now lol
thanks!
1. Yes, it can be welded, but I wouldn't do it.
2. I have one with under 22K mile on it that I can sell you if you would like. I believe they are all the same (someone can confirm?). PM me if you're interested.
3. Very easy, just two bolts. Removal of inner splash shield and wheel for easy access. Torque to 74 lbs ft
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
I welded mine solid with some BIG washers over the rubber piece in the back. Saved a lot of money on a solid mount
"In Oldskool we trust"
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:1. Yes, it can be welded, but I wouldn't do it.
2. I have one with under 22K mile on it that I can sell you if you would like. I believe they are all the same (someone can confirm?). PM me if you're interested.
3. Very easy, just two bolts. Removal of inner splash shield and wheel for easy access. Torque to 74 lbs ft
notch the fender liner
that way you dont have to pull it. just notch it and that way the bolt can get out.
carnivorous mouse wrote:are sure the rubber just didnt break you can metal aftermarket one.
http://www.turbotechracing.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4968&idcategory=528
i kind of need a picture but i think i know ahat your talking about
no way im spending 100 dollars on a mount lol even if its the best one out there, if you knew my car, you'd know its not worth 100 dollar mount haha
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:1. Yes, it can be welded, but I wouldn't do it.
2. I have one with under 22K mile on it that I can sell you if you would like. I believe they are all the same (someone can confirm?). PM me if you're interested.
3. Very easy, just two bolts. Removal of inner splash shield and wheel for easy access. Torque to 74 lbs ft
thanks but im gonna just weld it =)
and to whoever said is the rubber broken, no the rubber it still ok looking and no ripped...the actual metal part cracked in half, or its about to break fully in half, theres a deep crack in it
If it's cracked then replace it. No sense in rigging it to work again. The damn things are a dime a dozen in the junkyards.
I have both TTR mounts and did the same as Vince, Just notched the liner. IMO, I would just get the TTR mounts...They have a package deal for upper and lower that isn't too bad on the wallet.
ok i have one more question, my friend talks about me bringing him the front and rear mounts that he can weld and make stronger.....
i dont know the names of any mounts, are engine mounts and transmission mounts the same? can someone name them all for me and tell me where they are please? lol 2.2 ohv 1995
also is the dg bone one a transmission mount? its not even near the transmission
no the tranny mounts and engine mounts are different. the dog bone is an engine mount, i believe ur tranny mounts are the big like 4 inch ring with the rubber ring in the middle
all of our cars have 4 main mounts.
the motor mount (top passenger side or engine)
dogbone mount (the mount lower passenger side, its not really a mount and is called a Engine Torque Strut)
the 3rd and 4th mounts are ur trans and as said before are round with rubber inserts, and a large black bracket that bolts to the underside of the frame.
hope that helps!
Seriously, just buy a replacement. Don't half ass it and weld it.
its literally $14 new.
rockauto.com
do a part number search for # 2798
it comes up as Torque Strut Mount
or do the traditional search and look for your car, its under the Engine section also labeled as Torque Strut Mount.
dont half ass it, they're flimsy enough from the factory. welding it will probably just break again.
OK i ended up just buying stock replacement bc it wasnt fully broken just cracked and bent and further looking, the rubber still looked ok but im sure it's been there for all 101k miles of that engine, was 27.99 for new....here are pics of new and old
Cool beans. Now you won't have to worry about it breaking again.
Welding on that would have probably melted alot of the rubber in there too.
Mike wrote:If it's cracked then replace it. No sense in rigging it to work again. The damn things are a dime a dozen in the junkyards.
I have both TTR mounts and did the same as Vince, Just notched the liner. IMO, I would just get the TTR mounts...They have a package deal for upper and lower that isn't too bad on the wallet.
Thanks for the referal.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
u can get one from jegs it is 55.99 but it prothane
