I have a 2000 Sunfire GT, 2.4L. The engine has not lost any power and accelerates beautifully. Recently it has been gaining a very slight rough idle (jumps up or down by 100-200 rpms), stalls occasionally at low speeds when braking, and has a "dead spot" in the throttle. About a 1/2" - 1" into the pedal, the car bogs for a second and then takes off. Its inconsistent in severity and is far more common once warm. I tested and replaced my tps, didnt fix anything. Engine has.no lights and is not throwing any codes. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!!!
Try cleaning your throttle body and IAC valve
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Forgot to.mention, i cleaned my throttle body. Havent got to my iac valve yet though. Thanks for the quick response.
Any other ideas if cleaning the iac doesnt work? Just compiling a to do list so i can try everything tomorriw.
I got 10 to 1 odds saying you have a coil going out.
Mine did the same thing the last time my coil pack started going for the 3rd time.
Weebel: Where the hell is my coil pack? Is it inside the assembly on top of the engine that has the plug boots? I'm guessing it's inside the white plastic housing on the underside of the cover. If I'm correct, then what the hell size bolts are those? haha I tried 5mm and 6mm...surely they didn't make them 5.5mm?
Ya thats where its at I dont remember the bolt size though... but if your going to replace them dont bother removing the coils, just get another complete assembly from a salvage yard for $40
So i tested my coil packs and they both read 6k ohms on the secondary terminals. Im now suspecting a vacuum leak or faulty cam position sensor. What do you guys think?
Vacuum hose to map sensor....check that.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Dont worry about the cam sensor, you can unplug that and the car will run OK... thats only there to make your MPFI into SMPFI.
But check the usual, like said. clean the IAC, check vacuum hoses ect.
I have the same issue with my ecotec, they couldn't find anything wrong with the car at the shop (didn't look very hard but still had no problem charging me 90$ to read the ECM and clear the evaporate code I some how developed... Same things to try for an Eco too?
www.driftnamiperformance.com
