anyone have a link or something for it? front bearings. just trying to figure out tools required, how long it'll take to do one, and the general procedure. thanks!
ok so you need a torque it think its a t55 or 50 im not sure i forget jack it up take off the wheel brake caliper, rotor put ur ebrake on block one of the back wheels and drop it in neutral theres a whole on the wheel hub that you stick the torque socket in to get each bolt out as you spin the hub , then if ur car is a northern car after that out ur gonna need a big hammer and a chizzle to pop off that wheel hub. Then when you get ur new bearing on just line it up with the cv and push it in place bolt it on done. Takes me about 20-30 min but ive done it like 5 times
Try getting a Haynes manual. It'll explain almost everything you'll ever need to DIY.
well i used to have one when i had my old sunfire, but i sold it with the car. I dont wanna go out and spend another $20 on one if im not going to keep the car
T55 (maybe T50.... dont recall) and around a 29(possibly 30mm... have had both) 1/2" socket and a big breaker/cheater bar.
Not much to it.... get down to the wheel bearing, there's 3 or 4 of those T55 bolts on there, you gotta spin the bearing around until you can get to them..like illdeca said above.... put it in neutral so you can spin things around as needed.
Get those and the big axle nut off, and put the new stuff on....... it's just probably not going to be that easy because there's some higher torque numbers involved to loosen and tighten things. I had to use a 18" breaker bar and 3' long jack handle to get the axle nut loose, and could barely do it at that. During the process I had to put a bar between two of the lug nut studs and brace it against the ground, to keep things from spinning.
I sent you a PM with a link to a file you maybe able to use
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Richard K wrote:T55 (maybe T50.... dont recall) and around a 29(possibly 30mm... have had both) 1/2" socket and a big breaker/cheater bar.
Not much to it.... get down to the wheel bearing, there's 3 or 4 of those T55 bolts on there, you gotta spin the bearing around until you can get to them..like illdeca said above.... put it in neutral so you can spin things around as needed.
Get those and the big axle nut off, and put the new stuff on....... it's just probably not going to be that easy because there's some higher torque numbers involved to loosen and tighten things. I had to use a 18" breaker bar and 3' long jack handle to get the axle nut loose, and could barely do it at that. During the process I had to put a bar between two of the lug nut studs and brace it against the ground, to keep things from spinning.
I sent you a PM with a link to a file you maybe able to use .
I haven't watched the video I posted nor have I done a hub assembly on a j-body, but on the cars I
have done a hub assembly on, I've always left the rotors/caliper on and had someone push the brake to keep the wheel from spinning while I broke loose the axle nut. It may be easier that way than wedging something between the wheel studs (and possibly snapping one off lol)
I ment more for tightening it back up, I actually broke it loose while it was still on the ground, since the axle nut is accessible if you have the stock steelies. Good idea though with the brakes.... if you have someone to help.
Richard K wrote:I ment more for tightening it back up, I actually broke it loose while it was still on the ground, since the axle nut is accessible if you have the stock steelies. Good idea though with the brakes.... if you have someone to help.
Just jam something between the driver's seat and the brake pedal.
its super easy. you will have no problem . pull tire off take caliper off slide rotor off break axle nut loose 29mm then the t50 or t55 holding it on not sure which takes about 25 mins per side. its very easy good luck.
eum what i did was completly change the piece instead of only bearring at scrap it only cost me like 40$ for both side and took me 2 hours to change it was fast and easy no special tools required
you changed the spindle? theres no way to get to the bearing assembly without a torx
yup spindle was looking for the word lol in scrap yard they sell it in one pieces with the bearing loll
yeah take off the wheel, take off the caliper, remove the axle nut with a 30mm socket, pull rotor off, then use a t55 bit and spin the wheel bearing so you can get the bit to the bolt you want removed.
anyone have their wheel bearings come with an o ring and a press in seal as well? looked at it cause my originals didnt have it and these ones came with but say they are good for N & J body cars
meh our higher HP cars done need them
