Noticed this when i was about to replace my fuel filter. I dont know what its for or if it should be replaced as its all rotten. By the way its a 2001 Z24.

if i remember correctly, thats the charcoal canister. someone correct me if im wrong

yeap, its the charcoal canister..........and evap codes? if not just leave it

Yea i have actually been getting the p0440 code. Could be whats causing it?

Is it safe to leave it like that

i do remeber someone telling me that thoses thing always get full of @!#$ and all you can replace it but it might do it again

I thought the metal piece there was just a cover for the connectors on the plastic charcoal canister. I wouldn't worry about it.



2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R

timl777 wrote:Yea i have actually been getting the p0440 code. Could be whats causing it?

P0440 is gas cap not tight enough,installed right or your cap is bad

The biggest reason is the car sometimes hesitates. Right after I shift, and pressing on the gas again it will sometime hesitate like it isnt getting fuel as soon as I press the pedal causing it to jerk. I might have to look into replacing it depending if i can find one for a good price. As for the p0440 evap code, I dont know what else it could be. Purge and vent valves look good with no leaks, theres no signs of any leaks in any fuel lines or hoses. Just changed the filter this afternoon. Also tried 3 gas caps at the junkyard and after each one i reset the code and always returned. I've gone over and couldnt see any vacuum leaks. Is there any sensors that might trigger this?

if you get a code you have a sensor where i have no clue lol

The P0440 Evap Emissions code. (Large Leak I believe)

was the same code that I kept getting, over, and over, and over. I did a quick smoke test on it, and didn't have any leaks.

I just bought a new gas cap, and changed my method with how I tighten it.


When you are done gassing up, do you just turn the cap until you hear it click?

Sometimes dirt, debris or just a shotty design can prevent proper sealing, and cause issues with pressurization of the system.

I always turn it until it starts to click, and then give it another 1/2 turn. Since doing this, I haven't gotten any more Evap codes.

I really dont think it has to do with the gas cap as I have tried 3 others, one being almost new, and it will still throw the code. I'm still leaning towards a vacuum leak somewhere because once the car warms up it will idle funny. It will idle fine, then every few seconds it will surge or something making the engine shake then back to normal again for a few seconds. And sometimes when coming to a stop, I'll push in the clutch and it will stall once I stop and will crank and crank before it starts again. Looking like a common problem with the Z's with all the posts about em.

id replace it and see if the code goes away that code indicate a gross leak usually a gaqs cap but can also be anything in the evap that has a big leak. replace because its probably the cause to be sure run a smoke test itll cost a few bucks but then your not just throwing parts at it. but it does look like crap id replace it.

at the front of the engine too the left side looking at it (pass), beside the alternator, above the AC compressor. There is a solenoid, with electrical connector, bad connection here, undone, bad solenoid so forth also triggers the same code. As I forgot to hook this back up after changing the belt tensioner. I do beleive its the Evaporitive control solenoid.

if your not sure what connector, think if you were too remove the alternator as this needs to be unplugged and moved out of the way so you dont break the connector.

Thats just a metal cover for charcole canister.


- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

LarryMartin830(Soon With Z) wrote:

timl777 wrote:Yea i have actually been getting the p0440 code. Could be whats causing it?

P0440 is gas cap not tight enough,installed right or your cap is bad

no. just no. 0440 is a general fault with the evap system. any part of the evaporative emissions system can cause that code. 99.9999999999999999999999999999999% of the time, it's not the cap, which generally throws an 0442, small leak code.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

^^^ P0445 is EVAP gross leak, bigger than 1/20 of an inch, thats the gas cap, but a faulty purge solenoid will set a P0445


- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

LarryMartin830(Soon With Z) wrote:

timl777 wrote:Yea i have actually been getting the p0440 code. Could be whats causing it?

P0440 is gas cap not tight enough,installed right or your cap is bad

P0440 is usually the gas cap, but it's technically an "Evap emissions leak, small" code. I had one on my car for a while before I found the problem. (which turned out to be a small punture in the metal vacuum line under the vehicle). The GM tech I asked about it said a bad purge canister or a bad charcoal canister could also throw a P0440 code. I picked up the charcoal canister at the local dealer for about $25 so it couldn't hurt to go ahead and replace it since yours looks like that... especially if you're getting that code.


My Car Domain Page

Bulletin from GM for this code. Broken wire at rear fuel pump junction block under the car. I have repaired this problem on numerous J's with this wire being the issue. Just lengthened the harness and new terminals in the connector.





#02-06-04-044: Service Engine Soon (SES) Light Illuminated, DTC P0440 Set (Replace Fuel Tank Evaporative Emissions Control System (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Harness) - (Aug 14, 2002)


Subject: Service Engine Soon (SES) Light Illuminated, DTC P0440 Set (Replace Fuel Tank Evaporative Emissions Control System (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Harness)


Models: 2000-2002 Chevrolet Cavalier

2000-2002 Pontiac Sunfire




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment that the SES light is/was illuminated.

A technician may find DTC P0440 is stored in the PCM.

Cause
The EVAP solenoid harness may be misrouted around the rear antilock brake (ABS) wire harness causing a chaff/damage to the EVAP vent solenoid harness, setting DTC P0440.

Correction
Follow the service procedure below to diagnose and correct this condition.

Install a Tech 2 scan tool and select the appropriate vehicle. Verify that a DTC P0440 is stored in the PCM.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI Document ID #512922).



Locate and inspect the EVAP vent solenoid harness (3) routing. The harness may be routed below the ABS wiring harness (4) at the right rear corner of the fuel tank, causing stress on the EVAP solenoid harness (3).
Disconnect the EVAP vent solenoid harness (3) from the EVAP vent solenoid (2) and connector C313 (1). Discard the EVAP vent solenoid harness (3).



Connect the new EVAP vent solenoid harness (3), P/N 22687059, to the EVAP vent solenoid (2), route the harness above the rear ABS harness (4) and connect the EVAP vent solenoid harness (3) to connector C313 (1).
Lower the vehicle.
Clear the DTC's with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

22687059
Vent Solenoid Harness

Replaced the charcoal canister, and code is gone, gone for now anyway. Doesnt drive or idle any better, but its nice not seeing the CEL. Thanks guys

Got the idle thing narrowed down a little. It is only happening when the fan is running. I can be driving along in any gear and press the clutch, and the engine will drop down to 200 or 300rpm but bounce right back up. But if I'm coming to a stop, the same thing happens, but sometimes stalls. But when the fan is off, works great. I've checked the battery and alternator, and dont really know where to go from here. Car also has A/C, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. Need some help.

hmmmmm i read something about that before. trying to remember what it said. i believe it was to check the iac. it is suppose to adjust your idle for things like cold starts ac being on and what not. when you start the car does it idle up at all when cold and then drop down? or does it just start and idle around 750rpm ? if it isnt the iac i would check the temo sensors. other than that i cannot think of anything else. o check your tps sensor to voltage should be around .5v at idle usually alll of that will throw a code but its all i can think of. let us know

When I start the car it idles around 1500 + for a little then goes down to just below 1000.

thats normal. check your iac temp sensrs and tps alternator an battery. if it isnt one of those then im not sure but check those things first

I bet the stuttering is ignition related, always was for me anyway. Changing the Coil Pack housing would normally clear it up. I finally got tired of changing them 1-2 times a year and went with an MSD Coil swap. Now no stutters at all.