Alright. I think that my car has a ghost. After all of the times that my car has quit, each time a "solution" has been arrived at, it seems to just be a band aid. So I have put two control modules on thinking they were going bad and most recently ran a 12v power wire to the control module instead of the factory because a tech at work when through the diagnostics told me that the ICM wasnt getting power. Now the car will sit and run all day without shutting off, but when driving, it seems like there is a rev limiter on it. You can get to about 2500 rpm and it cuts out. regardless of driving or revving in neutral. Think this could be a crank sensor? or still a problem with the ICM? im desperate here guys. I am almost to the point of getting rid of my J.
Most auto part stores can hook up and test ICMs to make sure they are working properly.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Does it misfire when U rev it? Maybe a bad coil pack? Or could be the cat. converter is clogged?
DSMskyline wrote:Most auto part stores can hook up and test ICMs to make sure they are working properly.
Bad thing is, all three of the parts stores here have gotten rid of their ICM testers. It is beyond me.
Jeff E. wrote: Does it misfire when U rev it? Maybe a bad coil pack? Or could be the cat. convertor is clogged?
It seems to do more than misfire. When revving or driving, sometimes it just falls on its face for a moment. When it starts acting up, you can rev it and it will hit about 2500 and sound like its hitting a limiter.
Has any wiring been messed with? More so at the Crank Position sensor?
FU Tuning
Could it be fuel related? I had a bad FPR that caused a similar issue.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:Has any wiring been messed with? More so at the Crank Position sensor?
The only wiring that has been messed with is the new one that I ran from the fuse box to the ICM.
Also in the last year I have replaced, Fuel pump, fuel filter, FPR, ICM, plugs, wires, relays, and coil packs but the coils werent replaced with OEM.
OK so now I am really confused.
After getting my car back from the shop the other evening and it acting up, I decided to crank it first thing in the morning when I got to work. I got it and it cranked right up and idled fine. I then took it a mile or so down the road with no problems and turned around, laying into the throttle heavily. It didn’t miss a beat.
So with this new result I decided I would try and baby it the 20 miles to the house after work. I got in, and it started then died and backfired through the exhaust. WTH? So this morning when I got to work I cranked it again and it fired right up and idled fine, but I didn’t have time to drive it.
My only thought is that something is heating up in the 100+ degree heat under a black hood. In the mornings when it has ran it has been significantly cooler outside. The day it left me stranded it was hot as hell and yesterday afternoon was the same. Now my IAT is in metal intake piping and I seem to remember reading somewhere that if the IAT and ECT temps aren’t close that the car won’t start. I don’t remember if this shuts off the fuel or spark though; I have fuel but no spark.
Anyone want to blow up a J?
Quote:
I seem to remember reading somewhere that if the IAT and ECT temps aren’t close that the car won’t start.
This is not true.
I do agree something is heating up. Coil could be for sure.
FU Tuning
Think the coil could be heating up from ambient temperature?
Piece of crap...I went out with it hot again like yesterday when it failed to run with the Tech 2 so that I could take a snapshot of the engine data. Well it started and ran fine. No codes, no stumble, nothing. The one time in my life that I want my car to die, it wont. FML lol.
