Hey I bought a 2000 Cavalier Z24 that wasn't running. I changed the MAP sensor and the fuel pump. It starts up every time but only runs for a second or two. There is no security light on, also the odometer is really dim you cant even read it unless I shine a flashlight on it. The airbag light is also always on but I think that is because they is an aftermarket steering wheel with no aribag. Does this not starting problem have something to do with an aftermarket radio. The guy before me wired in a Pioneer DEH-P6000UB but he wired it in wierd because he took out the cigarett lighter and put in a toggle switch from the orange wire to the red wire coming out of the deck. The other wire (black wire) from the cig lighter is just hanging there is it a ground? The deck works perfect but the car wont stay running. Is there anyway to disable the pioneer deck and try starting the car to see if this is the problem.
I have tried bypassing the passlock system by wiring in a 3.3k resistor and that didn't work. I check the voltage on the yellow for the ignition cylinder and the voltage drops each time I turn the key. All the fuses are good, I put in a new fuel pump relay. I swapped the instrument cluster. I don't know what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Probably not your problem but,when you crank it does it turn over strong.I would at least check your batteries voltage,and alt will read the same.Unless your problem is a wiring issue,or maybe something I am just not familiar with on the 3rd gen stuff.The radio wiring sounds screwy and a toggle(oh my sounds like a bad mod).I am sure those who know these cars can chime in.
If your car starts and runs find for a second - 2 seconds. Probably the passlock kicking in. I had a 97 cavalier ls that a customer wanted me to put a remote start in. That is exactly what it did. If i pressed the gas, when it started I could get it to run for 5 seconds tops before it shut off. Every bypass kit I bought would not work. I tried about 5 of them. I never had an issue with any other car with bypassing the anti theft. I even took it to 3 other shops and they said the car was blacklisted. There has to be an issue somewhere with the anti theft. Either something with the radio wiring, factory alarm, or ignition. Usually putting the key in the ignition disables the factory alarm but you may have a hidden wiring issue. Try doing the passlock relearn.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Thanks for the replies. The battery and alternator are good. Could I just go to a junk yard and take out the lock cylinder of a 2000 cavalier (I'm assuming that is where the passlock is).
Also sound similar to a reference signal issue. On some GM cars, a signal is sent to the PCM to verify the coils fired and have ignition.... If that signal is not received, the PCM shuts the engine off.
I'm wondering if the gauge cluster has gone bad in it. It's part of the anti theft system.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
SHOoff wrote:I'm wondering if the gauge cluster has gone bad in it. It's part of the anti theft system.
Are you sure it is part of the anti theft system? I ran my 2000 z24 the other day for two days with the cluster removed and did not have any issues. I was installing a radio at the time and didn't get to finish putting the dash back together. I saw no difference in the car,
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
With mine, if you pulled the cluster it refused to start. Unless they're using a different system in the OO+ cars.
Matt - Try this. Turn the key to ON without starting it. And just let it sit there for a minimum of 10 minutes (9 min 59sec isn't long enough) Then try to start it.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
95-99 the cluster is part of the passlock. 2000+ passlock 2 doesn't care about the cluster.
I had this exact issue with my 1997 sunfire. I would crank it over even with a new battery and it would start and turn off 1-2 seconds later.
I searched and searched the web with very little information. I ended up taking the shroud off of my steering wheel and directly below my ignition I snipped one of the three cables on a connector as well as pulling a black grounded cable off of the ignition. Although my theft light is always on it starts perfectly ever since.
I read somewhere that the ignition starts to wear down and is no longer sending the proper resistance to the computer. Hopefully this at least helps you confirm the problem and give you a possible resolution.
I just ended up cutting out the aftermarket radio and getting another stock wiring harness and stock radio. I just wired them in and the car started right up. Thanks for all your time and help.
I composed a posting late last night about this . I have an 01 Cav and i can't find nor see the post i put together here in this thread .
I talked to someone today and they said ( in reference to the Malibu they had in the shop ) that there is a diode in the ign cylinder and that is a part of the circuitry for Pass Lock , Now I have no idea about the diode being an issue . As well , it was a different model altogether but the same brand .
Any ideas where my post from last night disappeared to . I hit the post button .
.
It's a resistor, not a diode. You can go through the long passlock relearn session or you can put a resistor between two of those three wires and it'll be fine. I chose to take a half hour out of my Thanksgiving afternoon today and did the relearn three times.
1.Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2.Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3.Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4.Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
5.Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes ( the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).
Important - The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
6.Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password).
7.With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if desired (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).
My light DIDN'T go out at ten minutes. I simply timed it with my phone and waited for the next instant the light flashed out and shut off the ignition. After three repeats, it still died right away. So I turned it off and on a few times, and then tried again and it was fine, stayed running, no THEFT SYSTEM light. I've tried four more times since today and it seems to be OK.
Alan Moore wrote:It's a resistor, not a diode. You can go through the long passlock relearn session or you can put a resistor between two of those three wires and it'll be fine. I chose to take a half hour out of my Thanksgiving afternoon today and did the relearn three times.
1.Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2.Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3.Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4.Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
5.Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes ( the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).
Important - The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
6.Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password).
7.With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if desired (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).
My light DIDN'T go out at ten minutes. I simply timed it with my phone and waited for the next instant the light flashed out and shut off the ignition. After three repeats, it still died right away. So I turned it off and on a few times, and then tried again and it was fine, stayed running, no THEFT SYSTEM light. I've tried four more times since today and it seems to be OK.
That is the old relearn process. We have two different relearns. The one you posted, and one where you let it sit for like 20 minutes solid and it runs. Never heard of this diode/resistor, as you can not bypass theftlock/passlock.
FU Tuning
The only separate diode I've ever seen used in a third gen is to do with the trunk light on the 2000-05 (it's in the body wiring harness, near the C200 plug).
Passlock.. is not a difficult system to defeat when you know how it works. There's a hall effect sensor in the ignition switch, and yes it uses the resistance of the metal in the key to generate an "R-code" (resistance code) that is learned by the BCM (on 00-05 models) or cluster (96-99 models) and when you start the car with the right key, either the BCM or cluster will send the fuel password to the PCM in order for the car to run.
If you have a working key.. you can start the car, then snip the yellow wire off the Passlock ignition switch and it will never Pass-lock-you-out again. But in most cases, you'll get the security telltale light on solid. Good way to get around the Passlock if you want a remote starter installed but don't want to pay $20 for a Passlock bypass module.
The Passlock re-learn procedure, for both 96-99 and 00-05, is in the FAQ.
