My fuel gauge goes to full on start, then the check gauges light comes on, then the fuel gauge drops and stays at empty no matter how much fuel is in tank. Replaced fuel pump & sending unit, bought a used cluster, and switched BCM, all with no change. Any info?
Out of curiosity.... did this happen first? Or did you change the fuel pump/sending unit, then it happened?
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Yeah, it happened first, so I started changing parts. So far nothing has worked. I bought a used cluster, it had other issues (no back lights), got another one, it too does not work, fuel gauge that is. I am almost believing THIS cluster could be bad. So 3 clusters all with the fuel gauge bad?? Rechecked the fuel pump, it seems all good and seems to change ohms as you work the float. Thinking of adding a new ground wire?
At this point I would suspect a break/short in the wiring from the pump to the gauge cluster somewhere. If the ohms fluctuate properly within the required range for the gauge to work (not sure what the correct ohms are) and you have tried 3 clusters... I don't think all three would be bad but you never know..
Have a nice day.
Now I notice the odometer is not working right in trip mode. The word trip flashes on and off and sometimes the decimal point is missing. I'm thinkin I will try 1 more cluster.....
Suggested that I had bad ground, tried adding ground wires at sending unit,, cluster, and battery ground- all with no change. Tried to chase wire from sending unit forward, could not find any visible spots that looked like a break or any damage.
Guess what I found? A broken wire by the computer module in the front fender....NO CLUE how it could just have a clean break....but hey, good news ...Fuel gauge works!