Hi! I am a newbie & thought I would jump right in with a question. I didn't notice any similar questions in "Newbie" or "Maintenance".
Just bought a '90 Sunbird LE, 2.0 (Engine Code K), auto trans
After replacing the bulb, the oil lamp comes on at idle & goes off when raising the RPM a bit.
I can't get a socket on the oil sender to remove it. The shallow 1 1/16 socket is too shallow; the deep one is too long.The connector is full of oil. It could be from a bad sender, or external oil leaks, or both.
My goal was to replace the sender & tee in a mechanical gauge. I cleaned the connector with electrical cleaner & reconnected it.
I replaced the 5W30 oil with 15W40 Delo, the universal oil for my "Fleet" of 80s & 90s vehicles.
So far, the oil lamp stays off at idle. That may change with some miles on the oil.
Questions:
- If the lamp goes off when the RPM is increased about 200 RPM, is there anything to worry about if the oil level is OK & there are no valvetrain noises?
- Is there an alternate (better access) place to install a sender for the oil lamp and/or a mechanical gauge?
- If I remove the motor mount to gain access, will there be enough room to tee in a mechanical gauge at the sender (right above the oil filter)?
Thanks!
how many miles you have on it ? if it was me I would check compression and replace the sender. how does the motor sound at idle?
I would replace your sender and use permatexs high temp thread sealant(comes in a white tube) use this on the threads of the sending unit.Now why in the h!!! would you use 15w40 in your cars application?This is def a WRONG this to run in this engine,no ifs,ands,or buts.Run 5w30 or highest would be 10w30.I would remove and replace said part,but as a suggestion pour 1 can of seafoam into the oil run the car 50 miles or to clean the gook out of the oil ports and so forth.Drain your oil,replace your oil filter,and install a brand new sending unit.Then see if the idiot light(as they are known as) stays off aside from initial starting the car.If you are dead set on a mechanical gauge wait a few days after you do my suggestion to make SURE there is not a oil pump issue,or even just a small short or connection on your oil press light sender wire.IF you do the gauge idea T in a double fitting for the sender and pressure line on the orig connection.Use the permatex thread sealant as well.The light being ON at idle might be simpley the wire feeding the signal has a break or short and you can check that for continuity with a multimeter with the audiable feature if you have one that can do this.
The car has 126k miles. A valve job was done recently & there is no valve train noise.
The idle surges a bit, which I attribute to a slow O2 sensor.
The sender is such a beast to access that I was hoping for an alternative location for a gauge connection.
I changed the oil to Delo 15-40 and changed the filter. The symptom went away.
I think i will rely on the high detergent level in the oil instead of using Seafoam.
My opinion is that relying on 5w30 oil to get better fuel economy in a 22 year old car is not worthwhile.
Whatever super-precision tolerances were built in to the engine in Brazil that long ago are moot now.
If the engine has an oil-related failure in the next 50,000 miles, with the 15-40 i will be sure to let you know.
SAE member 26 years
ASE certified since 1976
Service Technician Society member
Automotive teaching credential since 1976
15w40 isnt going to do you any long term favors. heck the timing chain squirter hole on our cars is pretty small its just asking for trouble fix the problem if you can don't hide the symptom. also 126k ain't enough to say all the tight tolerances are gone. but hey its your car but dont bitch when it breaks there is a reason its saying you got low oil pressure minor our major there is a reason.
The VIN K engine has a timing BELT, thus no oil squirter.
Well, it has gone several more years without an oil-related noise or problem on 15-40.
The oil light has not come back on at idle.
Stay tuned.
