2001 Cavalier 2.2 manual 188K.....
New starter and new battery installed 2 weeks ago. Everything worked great until last 48 hours.....car now not wanting to start. Had battery and ALT checked last night both came back fine and no symptoms of alternator going bad since that is pretty obvious even without the test. Starter seems to be working - none of the grinding or scraping noises so it is trying to spin that flywheel but car just does not want to start. Wondering what aspect of engine fuel/spark/wiring, etc...to run through first/next....
Totally intermittent impossible to predict as of right now, although it is getting worse and more frequent over last day and night. Hot/cold/morning/afternoon/just ran/sat for a while - none of that matters. Also no codes thrown and no RPM variability once it is running. Runs just as good as ever once it is driving down the road. No warning lights no dash.
Any suggestions?
Was hoping someone here could point me in the right direction since it is a cavalier specific website. Problem just persisting and getting worse over the last week. Took it to two different places and had them check the battery, alt and starter and both said everything checked out fine. They cannot explain the problem. I scheduled an ignition switch replacement at the dealer for next week when the parts come in. Could that be the issue? I also replaced the battery cable bolts since they were old and could be stripped a little but that did absolutely nothing and the problem is worse than ever.
4 starters over the last 5 months. New battery. And the alternator is fine. No codes. Runs great once it is starting so the problem is only upon ignition. Has anyone had any problems or experience with shorting after replacing the engine cooling fan and/or that connector? The reason I ask is that back in August of last year I had a hell of a time getting that fan assembly back into place and think all these starting problems started shortly after that - so was wondering if that wire that comes off the starter - and that goes to the cooling fan could have something to do with it. I was reminded of this the other day when the cooling fan came on when it was not supposed to after one of the starting-failure events.
Thanks.
Does it crank but it just won't start? Or do you mean it won't even crank?
It starts to crank then fails as if the battery is weak. The battery was just put in, even though the old battery was fine. So NEW battery - tested twice at two different places in the last 72 hours both saying it was good.
4th new starter in the car in the last 5 months - The original starter failed last November - replaced with reman starter that lasted one month. Second starter put in just like the one before it at a place 1000 miles away - lasted one month. Starter that is in the car now is brand new (not reman) 3 weeks ago along with a new battery stronger than the 525 CCA batteries the car has always had in it (this one is 650).
Alternator tested (in addition to not having any symptoms or reason to think it has a problem) - and of course it repeatedly tests OK.
Yesterday, bought two new battery cable bolts thinking maybe that would solve the issue - no change. Inspected both ends of both battery cables. Appear just fine. Cleaned the conections. No change.
This is a totally intermittent problem. Last night after changing the battery cable bolts, I sat in the car and started it about 10 times in 60 seconds. First 5 were perfect. Number 6 failed. Next two fine. 9 and 10 failed.
Can the battery cable itself fail or become corroded somewhere that you cannot see - other than the ends? I am at the end of my rope with this problem. It has cost me a fortune but the real toll is on my stress level.
Was going to replace the cables next but despite having a vast assortment of wrenches, sockets sizes, etc.....I do not apparently have the right size for either the bolt that goes on the starter end or the bolt that grounds to the engine. Anyone happen to know what insane size they are? I tried both metric and standard and no-go. *Could it be related to that ignition switch recall thing?* I went to the dealer and have that scheduled for whenever they get the parts in this week, but with the car failing so badly on each start attempt, I dont know if it will survive until then. I am afraid that this new starter is going to be killed or damaged from the stress and faiiled starts. In fact, it grinded a little this morning which I sure did not need or want to hear.
HELP!!!
You need to put a decent voltmeter on the starter motor positive lead and the other on the engine (not the body) and see what cranking voltage you have.
I'd be willing to bet you have a corroded/missing engine to body (or at least battery negative) cable or connection.
If it's missing, the starter motor might be trying to return to the battery negative via the transmission gears and suspension via wheel bearings, brakes etc.
Not a great path, eh?
Next, hook the + voltmeter lead to the engine block and the negative lead to the battery terminal.
While cranking, observe the voltage. It should be almost nothing. Certainly no more than one volt.
> 6 starters killed / fried / burned-up in 5 months.
> 2 new batteries both checked out fine
> Alternator tested and retested checked out fine
> Chevrolet dealer recall work done for ignition thermal events harness/relay wiring
> New Ignition switch installed
Last starter caught on fire had to get car towed back to have things inspected again. Nobody can find the problem or cause.
What could cause a 2001 cavalier manual 5-speed to have such problems starting? Here is what happens: Get in, turn key.......about 1 out of 5 tries, instead of starting, the starter just quits trying. It is like I changed my mind and decided I didn't want to start the car after about 1 second. I know that I am either going to get stranded somewhere again and/or that this thing is going to catch fire again like the last time. I wish someone could help me.
I'm not an expert on motors by all means but thought I'd throw the possibility of maybe a cracked distributor or bad wires maybe, although if it runs fine after prob not. Maybe computer has a starting issue or bad timing. Not getting enough spark or something
ReD RaiN
Ok very few if any could properly diagnose this problem. But here's my go at it, first guess you have had a string of crappie starters very doubtful. Second ignition system isn't sending starter proper starting signal. Third and more likely you have a ground and hot wire going to starter that is intermittently touching. But it's all guessing unless I had car myself. Good luck.
I second the bad engine ground.
Don't crank it for more more 10 seconds wait 3 mins before you try cranking it again (you'll cook your starter). Is the starter not cranking intermittently or is it just cranking fast and not starting or is is cranking to slow to start ( batterie is below 9.6V) These are important things to know. Check your voltage at the battery. with it off and with it running
If you have 12.6 volts at the battery and its cranking slow let us know.
You should have around 14V at the alternator and you should have 14V at the batteries terminals if its making it there assuming you don't have resistance in your charging circuit. Does it stall and die on you? Do the headlights and all interior lights flicker at idle?
If you want to rule out a bad wire or ground. use booster cables but make sure you know that your connecting a ground to a ground and positive to a positive. If you had that many starters changed Its not unlikely that one of the connections got mixed. Anything is possible.
