Ok i am at a loss here and i NEED HELP! I use to be lowered on Dropzone springs on OEM struts and ride was awful. I use to have shudders when i accelerated and wheel vibs really bad above 70 mph with my stock tires on. I fugured the high speed vibs were due to my multitreads on my car. so... I put my Eibach Prokit and AGX combo on and my summer wheels on that were almost bald. That got ride of the shudder when accelerating but i still had the high speed vibs. I ordered new Tires and just had them installed tonight at Firestone and the wheel balancer is good up to 200Mph there. They balanced out and they are not bend or warped. I still had the same damn vibs tonight. I let my car sit for the past 6 hrs and i just go in it to come home and when i left the g/f 's house and got on the main road, when i hit like 30 it felt like i was getting a flat. So i pulled over and check things out. All tires were ok.. It continued for a few more hunred yards then rolled themselves out. I got on an interstate and drove to 65-70 and they are still there.. I have no idea on what they hell is causing this. I had it at the dealership and blamed it on my first suspension. Now there is NO way in hell thats causing this. Any ideas on how to approach the dealership on this problem since i have an extended warrenty. I NEED HELP ASAP! I cannot drive like this and damage my new suspension or tires.
your struts maybe bad and your experence a high speed wheel bounce.
1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback
This was occuring before i put the new struts and springs in. Yes i can feel these are working like a strut should. Somthing is worn somewhere, but i don't know what. Its not the rims/tires since they balanced out. After letting it sit tonight for a few hr, it felt like i had a flat but then rolled out? WTF is up wit that?
damn.....cody. Wish I had the answer for ya. Hopefully somebody will come forward who has had this problem with their car.
--04 Blazing Copper Mazda 6 s
Well i payed the friggin 73 bucks to get the damn thing looked at.. and can anyone guess what they blamed it on?
" Oh its your aftermarket rims." BS.. i talked to the mechanic who's worked on my car from day 1 instead of the @!#$ service dept desk mother @!#$ and he's got 1 more idea on what it might be. So tomorrow i will be returning the car to him and were going to put it up on jack stands and put the bitch to 80-90 mph and to see if he can get the car to do its wobble. They are not allowed to drive the car to the speeds where its occuring. I am thinking its dealing with my CV shaft or somthing along those lines. This is the only thing he can think of. So i am going to put my stockers back on for a day and prove those @!#$s that its not my rims. But he also checked out my hub/wheel assemblys and those are in good conidition along with my power steering and tie rods. So we'll see tomorrow. I also put the front up to 3 and that didn't help out. But damn... when its under 60 mph... i love the ride.
i have a few questions.
Is it noticeable at all speeds? If it is, it would most likely be in your drive train. Like a cv shaft or wheel bear or even internal tranny.
does it seem worse after the car sits for awhile? If is seems worse after sitting your tires may have flat spots. This is common on some tires that are real soft. the tires may go back round as the tire warms up but in most cases they do not.
1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback
Shifted- They checked those out when it was there today. THey are solid with no play and do nut hum or groan.
Jimmy- It only occurs at speeds above 60-70MPH. I had Brand spankin new tires mounted and re balanced 2 times. There is not even 100 miles on them yet. Its occuring with my summer rims and even before with my stock Steel tires. Thats why i am ruling my wheels out. My struts are brand new and still functioning. I played with the stiffness tonight and know they are good. Its somthing in the driveline that is getting thrown outta wack at high speeds.
I had this EXACT same problem right after I lowered my car. It felt like I was riding in a stone boat from China, and then once I put my aftermarket rims on it was a little better. Driving on the highway over 70mph though it still did it. put the car on the lift and couldn't find anything wrong with it. About a week later I took it to get a front end alignment and it fixed everything. It's always reccomended to get your car aligned right after you do anything to change your suspension. Also, if your car is equipped with a factory sway bar, when you lower the car it changes the angle a little bit. After you get your car aligned, it may still shake a little over 80-85, if it does, then you need to change either the bushings or bolts on your swaybar to level it again.
And if you already had your car aligned after changing the suspension. Then I REALLY am clueless. but good luck! hope this helps!!!
Officer: Do you know how fast you were going??
Me: Fast enough to get you to put down the coffee and doughnut!
Officer: (scowls)
Me: great, now I'm REALLY gonna get a ticket huh?
ok when you put the new suspension in how was your strut mounts.or did u put new ones on? also was the car ever in an accident?
you could also check out the rack n oinion.my car does that some n me n my brother traced it to the rack, as for fixing it i haven't done it yet, i don't know if the rack has bushings or if it is just bolted on.it's a bitch to get to on my 97 cav.hope this helps you.
When I fixed that problem my strout mounts weren't that bad, but they could've used new ones then, but I didn't get around to that until 2 months ago, and that helped even more. When I bought my car it was totaled, but the extent of the damage was only a dent in the door, fender and quarter on the drivers side, there was no damage to the frame or suspension of any kind. The wheels weren't even bent. It was laid on its side in a ditch. So, hope this information helps, and if you can get a new set of strut mounts (even if its just for the front) I'd really suggest doing so, you can get them at autozone or advance cheap.
Officer: Do you know how fast you were going??
Me: Fast enough to get you to put down the coffee and doughnut!
Officer: (scowls)
Me: great, now I'm REALLY gonna get a ticket huh?
When was the last time you had an alignment? Get the chevy dealer just to double check it if it was recent.
It was aligned last sunday. New tires were put on tuesday and balanced. This all was done at Firestone. Well here's the verdict after today. Last night i took my 2 summer rims off and put my steelies back on. Geeze, funny, i still have wheel vibs at the high speeds but they are not as harsh as with the rims. I am going to assume its becuase they are lighter and have a thicker side wall, but if my stockers are still doing it. Yea, there is a problem. Just got back from the dealership AGAIN! . The tech put my car on the lift and had one of the other tech's hold the gas pedal down. He said the Drive shafts are running flat, but the tires are running side to side in their place and my front end was shaking like a bitch. Then he asked if there is any difference when when i changed wheels around. I said No. Its a slim to none chance that i have 6 tires that are @!#$ up. He agreed. But my wheel bearings don't hum, or growl. He is clueless. But admits i have a problem.
.. Step 1 accomplished,( admitting the problem) step 2 gettin it fixed is a whole nother ball game. He thinks the warrentech is going to @!#$ me over becuase if anything i need a new hub assembly and they won't pay it because of my drop. But i don't think they will becuase my drop is going to kill a hub assembly. Its prolly just shot after being 6 years old. ( The hub assembly is just the wheel bearing correct?) Sooo.... u have to call back tonight and see what they are going to do about it. .. thats the update for now. But i gotta love putting them in their place. @!#$s! I should be a dick and bitch and want my 73 bucks i spend yesterday for them to tell me it was my rims... I really should!
If its a hub assembly thats bad you would be able to move the tire towards and away from the engine bay (it will wiggle a little bit). If you end up replacing your hub (wheel bearing assembly) I would suggest picking up the Timken ones at autozone. They have a 1 year warranty and are made a little better than the OEM ones IMO.
If you were closer I'd tell you to go pick up two wheel bearings and come on over to my house. I can change those things in 20 minutes. Seriously easy job, and yes, wheel bearings and hub assemblies are the same thing. The extended warranty probably won't cover them since a lowered car without a camber kit can add stress to the wheel bearings. $75 per bearing per side, timken are lifetime warranty if I remember right and probably the best you can get.
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Thanks for your $.02 guys.
Zach- I passed a post on another site on wheel bearing replacements and that what he used in the how-to. Thanks for spelling it right for me. I wasn't finding anything spelling it Timekein..LMAo....
Shifted- Thanks for the offer man. I would take you up on it too if i was closer. But like i said to Zach, i passed a How-to along my tracks and didn't look too hard. I am glad i am gettin another car this fall so i can tinker with the cav and not worry about it for a few days.
.. one more thing i remember. He said somthing about checking the run out on the hub assembly. I personally cannot move the wheel around. But when the drove it on the left, that was the motion of the wheels when the were spinning. IN and out.
I thought they had a lifetime warranty too, but thats not what autozone told me when I was exchanging mine last friday.
Well i am going to go out and dick with my car right now and see if i can get a good look at these wheel bearing. What should i be looking for to know they are bad?
If you pull the brake caliper off you can see the wheel bearing. Its triangular shaped near the spindle and has the 5 lugs on the end of it. There is also a hole to stick the torx bit you need to take it off through. If its bad, you will be able to wiggle your tire back and forth and from top to bottom while it is on.
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Well i didn't go that far as taking the rotors off... but i couldn't move my wheel in any direction. Probably wouldn't move since the rotor and caliper basically keep it from moving to the point of seeing a problem.
Do they have to make noise if they are bad? I can't hear anything when i go 60 mph down the road. It feel liks my wheel is going to fall off vibration bad. But i get no Humming or growling.
To check the bearing leave the tire on, If you have a hydralic jack use it. Jack up the car a bit, enough to get a crowbar or something under it, try to move the tire with it. If it move your bearings are bad. Dont stab the tire though...LOL
I have tried this. The car starts to shake on my driveway and i don't want to knock it off the jack.
