I had my front end checked out the dealership, I was clueless what was wrong....
It turns out, my alignment problem is being caused by, if I remember correctly, Strut tower/bolt seats.
What exactly, and where exactly are these?
I was quoted by the dealer a parts cost of about $400, and total cost of like $600 including labor.
That is just an exhorbitant amount of money that I really don't want to spend right now.
He told me if I don't fix it, in time it could cause other things to wear out, such as my struts, and other steering parts that he didn't mention.
On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being HVAC knob replacement, and 10 being a 3800 swap, how hard would this be to do myself?
Will I need any special tools?
Other than tire wear due to the alignment, do I risk any other potential problems driving the car like this?
I think that's about all, I'm a little ticked off, so I may be forgetting something.. if I think of anything else, I'll post up.
Thanks in advance.
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
I just picked my car up...
On the Service receipt it says:
Vehicle needs front upper strut mounts and bearings and alignment.
I knew about the alignment.
Where are the upper strut mounts? Do I need spring compressors to do this?
And what about the bearings? Is it one assembly?
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
When you pop the hood and look at the two strut towers you'll see stuff within them. That is the upper strut mounts. I am 99% sure that to replace them you WILL need spring compressors (anybody else can correct me if I am wrong and make me look like an idiot). The parts are not cheap but they are not that expensive either.
The job is definately NOT a 1 (aka HVAC knob replacement). Some people this will take an hour or so, other people it will take longer. if you have no experience working on the car, I wouldn't make this your first project.
As for the bearings.... the wheel bearings you mean?
Jay
One huge aluminum wing - $200
More vinyl graphics than your ride can handle - $150
Decals for products you don’t even have - $10
500lbs of Car Audio equipment in the trunk - $1500
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Getting slaughtered by a KIA - Priceless
.... or does that mean the bearings in the strut mounts?
If it's just the strut mounts, it will cost about $100 for the parts if you get them yourself, and another $75 tops for alignment. As for difficulty, it's around a 5 if you have the tools (spring compressors, torque wrench, breaker bar or impact wrench, lotsa metric sockets). I think $600 for strut mount swap is retarded. If they are going to do your wheel bearings also, it's an okay price... but I don't think you need them.
- Ken
'99 Z24, Manual
J-kub,
Ok I know what you mean, for some reason I was thinking something under the strut towers....... I didn't connect the two, which I should have.
I'm hoping costs to be $300 or less. I was told I need BOTH sides done. The car is a 2001, is this a common problem?
I just did my front brakes yesterday in about 2 hours. About 45 minutes for my side, and 1hr 15mins for the other side, teaching my g/f how to do them.
About 2-3 weeks ago, I did my driver's side wheel bearing. Not super easy, but it wasn't hard enough to make me throw any tools either.
And a last note, if they're telling me I need wheel bearings, I'll be REALLY upset.
Ken,
I'm hoping he meant the bearings in the strut mounts.. I had assumed they had some after he told me that. I wouldn't pay to have wheel bearings done, I can do them myself, thanks to a write-up someone posted here.... it was 100% accurate.
And as I said before, I just did my driver's side wheel bearing, I have also checked my passenger side wheel bearing and it seems fine. There is no noise, and no movement of the wheel when the car is jacked up.
And now that I'm thinking about it, the guy told me strut bolt seats. I replied "My seats?" I thought perhaps they found something wrong with my seats in the car (I know, I'm an ass at times) And he said no, your strut seats, or strut mounts.....
I'd definitely like to get this fixed ASAP.
And as far as tools.. I can rent tools from Autozone for free... after I pay a deposit on the tool of course..........
Thanks for the input guys, I really really appreciate it.
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
Get in the Zone and buy a couple front strut mounts. Your looking at about $100. Rent yourself a spring compressor and set aside about 3 hours worth of time. You will need an alignment when your finished. Here's what you need to do:
Jack up the car.
Remove the front wheels.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor (assuming you know how to do this since you did your wheel bearings)
Take out the two bolts on the front spindle that attach the strut. (Should be like 18 or 22mm) They have splines on them so leave the nuts onf at the very end of the bolt and tap them out with a hammer.
Move the strut away from the spindle.
Remove the two nuts on the strut tower and the bolt (all 13mm)
The strut/sping/mount assembly should come free now.
Using your spring compressor, compress the spring.
Remove the mount from the strut by taking of the nut in the middle off the mount (18mm), use an impact wrench to do this.
Installation is reverse of assembly. Hope that helps.
hay man, i just got front strut mounts from autozone for $80 for the 2. get the 95-99 ones. and if ya need, ill help ya switch em out. ive done it a bunch of times, and just did mine this past weekend.
ps- with my goldlines, i dont need spring compressors. on most springs, especially stock you have to have compressors
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Zach, for the wheel bearing (Only did the drivers side so far) I've done all of that up to taking the strut assembly off the spindle...
A few more steps shouldn't be too hard....
I haven't used a spring compressor ever in my life, but I can probably rent one from autozone.
Zach, do I need an impact wrench, or will brute force work?
I have access to an air compressor, but it's eh.. maybe a 10 gallon? Seems a bit small for my preferences...
And it helped a lot, thanks man!
Eazy, The g/f and I saw you crusing down broadway, just after we droped my car off at Basil ..... We were in the black monte rockin steelies, with the chrome painted red...
Anyways, your car is looking good, and she commented that the back end needs a spoiler (read: spoiler, not wing) she said it looked too smooth...
Anyways, back on topic... Why buy the 95-99 strut mounts??
I might need a hand, I'll see how things go, and I appreciate the offer.
I was also thinking last night.....
I jacked up my car to check my rear brakes.... I went a bit high, and the whole back end was lifted....And being a fan of muscle cars, I liked it...
My question, when I'm taking my springs off, can I cut a coil off? or maybe 1 or 2" of metal from the first coil??
I could care less if I lower the back end, but the front needs to be slammed......
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
If you need instructions on how to do struts, go
here. Click on the "My Garage" link, and go to "strut mount replacement", it's the second one down. Great instructions, with pics. Very helpful for those who've never done this sort of thing before. I did my struts in a couple hours using that site, and I'd never done that before.
I may not know much about cars, but I know two things....
1) Breaking things is expensive, and
2) Horsepower isn't cheap.
If you use the 95-99 mounts you will need to get new spring seats ($4.99 each) for the springs to properly rest on the bearings of the mount. Those are rarely stocked at a dealership, so just stick with the 2000+ mounts so you cna re-use your seats.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
This question comes up one a week but.....
Don't cut the springs!
Also, having lowered springs in the front and stock in the rear would be unhealthy for your suspension and steering.
Jay
One huge aluminum wing - $200
More vinyl graphics than your ride can handle - $150
Decals for products you don’t even have - $10
500lbs of Car Audio equipment in the trunk - $1500
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Getting slaughtered by a KIA - Priceless
Zman2k2,
Looks like a good read, from what I've seen that should carry me easily through the installation. Thanks! I appreciate it.
2.4 Cavaweir,
Is there a difference in cost between using the 2001 mounts (correct mounts) and the 95-99 mounts, plus the spring seats?
Any difference in quality?
J-kub,
Ok, I won't cut my springs.
Is there any way I can lower the front, and leave the back higher? Or does any lowering have to keep the car level?
I was doing that to keep more weight on the front end for traction/drag purposes.
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
Oh crap, I forgot to mention....
I just thought today of a possible cause of my strut mounts...
Wheel hop. Could this do it? I have been known to race on occasion..... And if I take off hard enough to spin my tires, my wheels hop.. really badly.
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
Wheel hop isn't going to wear you strut mounts out much. Thought I don't really reccomend adding more rake, the only proper way to do so would be using coilovers. Read the suspension FAQ about those. Gravana's coilovers are about the best coilovers I have ever seen and they have a decent price tag if you sign up in the group purchase forum.
If the wheel hop didn't do it.. what the hell would cause the upper strut mounts on my 2001 to go to hell so fast?
Maybe I'm expecting more life from an item that typically doesn't last long, but in my life, I have never had a vehicle this new need upper strut mounts.
Either way they shouldn't cost but $100-$200 to fix, right?
And the tech writeup also said bearings.....
Are there bearings in the strut mounts, or anywhere near them? (Not including wheel bearings)
I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.
the big difference between the 95-99 mounts and the 2000+ are that the 2000+ come as a assembly, and the 95-99 are basically rebuild-able, you can get the bearings as a separate piece as I recall. The bearings should be in the mounts when you buy them, not sure on the pre 2000 mounts myself. ask when you got to buy them. some assert that the 95-99 are more durable. i suppose that it boils down to what you do with your car. if its your grandma's car, she will probably have the same mounts in there till she gets another car. if you put ebay springs on stock struts then they could fall apart in no time flat. mine are fine no noise no clunking. I like to drive a little on the aggressive side, and i don't race. you may have to pound out the bolts that attach the strut to the spindle.
My '00 is clunking so I will be rebuilding the strut bearings this summer too. I have been looking for a good excuse to buy an electric impact wrench anyway.
You guys have been giving us some great tips! Thanks!
The 95-99 mounts have a much better bearing design, and the top strut nut is easier to get to (it is recessed on the newer mounts). In my opinion they are much better quality then the newer 2000+ style mounts. The only thing you need to remember is you will need to get a set of spring seats from GM in addition to the mounts - GM part# 22130318.
- Ken
'99 Z24, Manual
I think the 2000+ mounts are a tad more expensive than the 95-99 + the seats. If you have the time to wait and order the seats, go with them. Plus they are easier to tighten the top nut than the 2000+ mounts.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
I replaced my struts on my 96 Sunfire convertible yesterday/ today at 120k. The mounts were OK, but the bearings were a little flaky so replaced them-design is most the most robust in world. IMO. One note for convertibles, Upper stud/nut to be removed is NOT accessed from in the trunk as my aftermarket manual says, is in "boot" area for storing the top just behind the back seat.
GLENN BRAND wrote:I replaced my struts on my 96 Sunfire convertible yesterday/ today at 120k. The mounts were OK, but the bearings were a little flaky so replaced them-design is most the most robust in world. IMO. One note for convertibles, Upper stud/nut to be removed is NOT accessed from in the trunk as my aftermarket manual says, is in "boot" area for storing the top just behind the back seat.
Here's a good example of why the 95-99 mounts are better. If you had the 2000+ mounts you would be bitching you heart out right now 'cause you'd have to replace the entire mount (and after taking a quick look at it you'd know a new one wouldn't last another suspension disassembly anyway).
'99 Z24, Manual
