Well previous post was about replacing the hub ... got that done thanks to the link provided by z24challenge, good news is the squealing stopped but the the driver side thumping didn't. So looking for some imput on changing the CV joint. Any write-ups or links on this subject? Doing it on a 2000 Z24 Auto.

Thanks, Shane

Courtesy of Chilton Manual (1995-2000 Cavalier/Sunfire). Hope this is what you were looking for. Sorry, don't have pics. Won't until July-ish when I have to do this on mine...

I'll try to fill in some of the details where the step-by-step points to a picture in the manual...

Halfshafts - Removal and Installation

1. Remove the negative battery cable. (Ever wonder why they recommend removing the negative battery cable for everything...)
2. With the weight of the vehicle still on the wheels, loosen, but do not remove the front hub nut. This is the big ol' sucker in the center of the front hub. 22mm I think it is...
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
5. Remove the hub nut and washer.
6. Remove and support the brake caliper. This can be accomplished by safety wiring the caliper to the coil spring.
7. Remove the brake rotor.
8. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut and loosen the joint. If removing the left halfshaft, turn the wheel to the right.
9. The above cotter pin is on the top of the tie rod/ball joint connection point.
10. Disconnect the ABS sensor, if equipped.
11. Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. A ball joint separator is recommended for removing the tie rod end from the hub assembly without damaging the ball joint/tie rod end.
12. Disengage the halfshaft stub end from the front wheel bearing and hub assembly by using a suitable press-type tool (ie steering wheel puller), pressing until the halfshaft splines are just loose. A hammer and suitable punch can be used to drive the axle out of the hub.
13. Separate the hub and bearing assembly from the halfshaft. Move the strut and knuckle assembly rearward.
14. Separate the inner joint from the transaxle using the proper puller tools. If not available, a pry-bar can be used. Take caution what is being used for leverage.
15. Remove the halfshaft from the transaxle. Do not pull the halfshaft by the boot or joint itself.

To install:

1. Prior to installation, cover all sharp edges in the area of the halfshaft with shop towels so the boot will be protected from damage. These are filled with grease. One small tear, one big mess.
2. Ensure the hub is free from debris.
3. Install the shaft into the transaxle by placing a brass drift pin (whatever that is) into the groove on the joint housing and tapping until seated. Be careful not to damage the axle seal or dislodge the seal garter spring when installing the axle.
4. Install the axle into the hub.
5. Reassemble the knuckle, hub, brake assembly.
6. Install the washer and new hub nut for the halfshaft. To keep the hub from turning while the nut is being torqued insert a pin/screwdriver through the caliper opening into one of the vent openings in the brake rotor.... (k, that don't make sense...)
7. Torque the hub nut to 185 ft lbs.
8. Install tire and wheel.
9. Test drive.

For the final torque, get it snugged down, install the wheel, torque the hub nut while there is some pressure on the tire (don't lower the car all the way, just enough to create friction to where you can torque that nut down...)

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HTH

(btw, Big thanks to Dave for the spell checker... just found out that I can't spell "separate" correctly)

Very Nice! Thanks ... so it sounds like I have to do the same thing I did to replace the hub but just a little deeper. Also just a note on the write-up:

"2. With the weight of the vehicle still on the wheels, loosen, but do not remove the front hub nut. This is the big ol' sucker in the center of the front hub. 22 mm I think it is..."

The nut is actually a 30 mm, the only reason I remember that is I drove to 5 different hardware stores (including Sears!) that didn't have that large of a deep-well socket! Good ol' Harbor Freight saved the day again! Set of large deep-well impacts for $19.99 up to 32 mm.

Thanks Again, Shane

The nut is actually a 30 mm, the only reason I remember that is I drove to 5 different hardware stores (including Sears!) that didn't have that large of a deep-well socket! Good ol' Harbor Freight saved the day again!

That's good to know when I have to go do the clutch/passenger side halfshaft on mine.

Thanks