I just finished rebuilding my motor after i spun a rod bearing, i decided to do the intake manifold swap but before i go to put my motor in this weekend i was wondering if anybody else who has done this could give me some tips on what to do with the throttle cables and if you can post any pictures that would be awesome thanx
if you aren't useing the cruise control then you can use the stock throttle body bracet. just take the cable and go around and put it a little under the battery tray, thats how I ran mine.
View my MySpace
I had to cut a notch out for my transmission (auto), but I got away with the stock throttle cable bracket.
I highly recommend getting the Phenolic spacer from Chris Fontana for this swap, and remember to get some longer intake manifold bolts (8mm x 40mm and 1.25mm pitch).
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
A topic thoroughly covered before I can even post.
If you can. Get the 56MM TB from the car too.
Forever a work in Progress
yea i already have the 56 mm throttle body and i swapped over my butterfly so that i would still have cruise control, if i can see a picture or get links to a picture of what the routing of the throttle cables look like i wil be all set to
i am considering swapping to the quad 4 intake mani, but was wondering are all the quad 4 mani's the same?
r.i.p rotary
There are 2. The LO and the HO. From what I can tell the differences are slight but I'm told the gains are the same. The LO doesn't have as large a bulge in the plenum as the HO
And also, I heard a
RUMOR that the said Bulge helps reduce the loss of low end torque but I personally don't think it's at all different, I could be wrong.
There should be a list of numbers out there that will identify the plenum if you look. They should be listed at the Quad4forums and at NY J bodies.
Forever a work in Progress
Here's some pictures... It's pretty simple.. I just turned my cruise control module around and that cable just rests on my intake tube now.. then ran the throttle cable through that hole where the plastic intake box used to sit off the strut tower and everything works like a charm now.
Overall picture:
How the cables run 'into' the TB: (throttle on top, cruise on bottom)
Hope this helps.. lemme know if you would like a different picture, I'll see what i can do.
15.69@86.670 - stock 99Z
I noticed you put your throttle cable through that little hole near the strut tower. Some people are unable to do that though being that they have the AEM bracket for their clutch fluid reservoirs but you can always zip tie it somewhere. that's just a general idea for the direction it's supposed to go.
Forever a work in Progress
also I used a sohc 2.3l LO throttle body, I had to drill out the hole where the throttle cable attaches to the TB. but it was off of an older car so you probably wont have to do that. also in the ny-jbodies.org write up it says to use the 2.4 Idle Air Control sensor I had to used the 2.3 sensor because at the end the of the 2.4 sensor it was a completely different style plunger on it. this caused it to idle crappy and die, the 2.3l sensor works like a charm. but again that might only be on the older style TB i used.
View my MySpace
As far as the TB goes, I got a 56mm throttle body off of a 95 2.3l engine, so I was really lucky. No drilling or anything required, everything just goes on as it did on the stock 52mm tb. I used the 2.4 IAC and TPS. I never tried the 2.3 IAC because the idle was fine, but with the 2.3 TPS the car didn't quite recognize WOT. I think I was getting a reading of 4.2 volts at WOT while the 2.4 TPS had a reading of 4.7 at WOT and the car works like a charm with it.
15.69@86.670 - stock 99Z
Shifted wrote:I had to cut a notch out for my transmission (auto), but I got away with the stock throttle cable bracket.
I highly recommend getting the Phenolic spacer from Chris Fontana for this swap, and remember to get some longer intake manifold bolts (8mm x 40mm and 1.25mm pitch).
Really dumb questions how do i remove those bolts to put in the new one.
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-
#30 to register on
JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time
shifted, i have an auto, and instead of cutting a notch, i just filed part of the bracket, it took me all of like 5-10 minutes to do it that way, and i didn't even have to file that much off. beats cutting.
I have an auto and I didn't need to file or notch anything and everything clears.. although I think there's different design's of the manifold and the one I have sits a little higher.
15.69@86.670 - stock 99Z
If i use the throttel body from the intake manifold will it be plug and play wih the connections to it, or are there an mods to be done to the connections.
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-#30 to register on JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time
I used the TB and it was plug and play. but I think there are 3 kinds of TB's out there. Mine personally was plug and play.
Forever a work in Progress
the easiest and best things to swap on there is a Ho intake and HO exhaust manifold. along with the HO TB, later
this helps me alot but does the chris fontana adapter block the pcv valve hole and how do u turn the cruise control around and how do u run the vaccum hoses to use the 2.3 HO manifold and joyride where did u get the air intake i want one lol
I just used a 2.3 L.O. intake mani and throttlebody, for all the sensors I stay with the 2.3 sensors. The mani and the throttle came from a '95 Grandam, only problem that I have is at idle, sometimes my lights will dimmer and fluctuate but I do not see a loss of any low end torque, I am wondering if it is the H.O. only that will cause the loss :S, I am tempted to switch the sensors back due to me being annoyed casue the car has rough Idle, and since the swap was done my stereo doesn't like going over a certain volume(grounds are all connected nicely). the biggest time you feel the difference only seems to be above the 3000 RPM point. So Paul with the little bit of fabricating to do stick with the L.O. if you can(if staying N/A), and stay away from the H.O.(People say lose horsepower with it)
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen
^ You do know you are replying to a post that's the better part of 4 years old right?
christopher bogart wrote:this helps me alot but does the chris fontana adapter block the pcv valve hole and how do u turn the cruise control around and how do u run the vaccum hoses to use the 2.3 HO manifold and joyride where did u get the air intake i want one lol
Yes it blocks the PCV, a little fabrication skills required for the cruise bracket (or you can use one from a 2.4 SC car if you could find one). Vaccum hoses are pretty easy, just run them where they used to go, and block the rest of the open ports. And I don't think JoyRide is going to reply to you, I haven't seen him on here in years.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!