Ok well I've decided that I love my sunfire to death and I want to go all out with it, I am planning on putting around $4,000 or $5,000 in it, I want to do everything at once and I was wondering what you guys thought would be better for the buck I could either do a full build on my 2200 ( Patriot performance head, built valvetrain, a turbo cam with a ton of lift, built low comp bottom end, and a full t3/t4 turbo kit plan to run between 15-20 lbs of boost, I figure that would cost me around $5,000 approximately, And I would hope to push at least 250 to the wheels or.....
I was thinking of buying a 3800 SC motor and building it a tad ( not a full engine build ) but all bolt ons etc. and would probaly push at least 250 to the wheels with that too.....
Now what would you guys do? I am not just looking for the most power I am looking for what would be more cost effective dollar per horsepower and what would be less of a pain in the ass.
Thanks guys
I guess it all comes down to your own preference. I personally would rather just deal with a motor I have now and boost the hell out of it instead of trying to do a swap, that's just my opinion.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
X2. Boost. That swap will be a PITA.
Be kind to dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.
okay ...
First off....... it will be a little more then 5000 just to SWAP in the motor....... Custom wiring harness etc.......NEVERMIND bolt ons................
Second..... so far with my 2200 the custom kit and built head (P&P, s.s valves 1+ oversized, stock springs, magnum rollar rockers 1.6:1 if they fit))........ so far..... with those 2 things.....
I'm well over 5k.......................
so 5000 fully built..... uhhh no ...... and turbo ...... definitely not ......
in my opinion however..... keep the 2200 ... you'll still have the weight advantage....... turbo the 2200 the RIGHT way .................... and build the bottom end ................ but not a crazy build ..... just like some main bearings, rod bearings (the 77's should do
), eagle rods, some pistons....... you'll be good to 250whp.... but NO problem..... I'm pushing the stock internals intergrity and strength @ 10psi at 230WHP right now.....with all the other bolt ons you need......(those bolt ons are NOT included in the price of the turbo and head)
Sorry.... I had to talk about my car ....Karo... he wanted to know my opinion however I am a little bias............ I love the 2200 ...... just letting him know the potential....
It's a great motor that everyone hates on because it's push rod... and slowjam stock..................... but with a little work the 2200 is a gem motor....
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Boost the poo out of that 2200!!
you can easily build and boost for less than 5000. This is how much I purchased everything for (or am expecting to pay in the near future):
mildly ported & flowbenched head w/ 3-angle 340
JBP hi-revolution lifters (part #JP0565) 250
JBP pushrods (part #JP0298) 120
Comp Cams 1.6:1 60* V6 roller rockers (Mantapart/JBP) 50
JBP "HD" retainers & locks (part #JP0533) 60
Mantapart valve springs 100
SI stainless valves (Mantapart) 100
ARP rod and main studs 185
Eagle rods w/ARP studs (dyno-flow.com part# CRS-5590-C3D) 300
Clevite 77 rod bearings (part #CB745H) - Howell 20
Venolia pistons 300
cryoed crank (metal-wear.com) 150
balanced crank 100
crank scraper & windage tray (crank-scrapers.com) 150
Melling 90-94 oil pump (part #M-98) 70
Mantapart lightweight underdriven pulley set 100
RSM bored TB and upper intake manifold 125
CC tuning ported lower intake manifold 75
Upper polyurethane mount insert and lower dogbone mount 60
A lot of this stuff was purchased second hand (but still new) through the classifieds or ebay, and the porting would be practially free if you took a little time and did it yourself. This all adds up to a little over 2000. Obviously, this doesn't include a new cam (should you want one), or boring/honing (should you need it). You may also want to look into an upgraded head gasket (but a Felpro replacement may hold pretty well with the ARP studs, I got my SCE copper gasket for 70, and an o-ring may run about 100).
HOWEVER, the MOST IMPORTANT part of a solid engine is the management system, so throw $1000 aside for that (paid $300 for my MSD coils/adapters/DISII, and a Megasquirt unit will run $300 or so).
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
That's one KILLER OHV build. Very thorough. Wish I had the money for a build like that on my 2.4L. Megasquirt sounds like a priceless addicion to any turbo system.
I'd love to get a mega squirt I have a holley commander that went in my iroc z that I never finished not sure what I'd do for a engine harness any ideas or has anyone ever used a commander 950 in a j. body
IS Michael Jackson coming back next?
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
he's already back, and black
Well the 3800 road is not as expensive as everyone else is saying . . . Depending on your skill level it can be as cheap as a good junkyard motor and a few parts. I am into my swap for about $225 into the engine and trans. I have to get some custom axles and the wiring harness from a 2004 Impala S/C so I can run the interior harness. All in I am expecting the engine/trans swap to be $1500. That is a stock engine and trans. take the rest of your budget and do a mild rebuild with some nice cams, a smaller pulley (maybe a short stack intercooler may or may not fit), some good tuning and maybe a GMPP Diff and you should have a car that is more than fun to drive.
Whats up people?
Oh forgot to add that since I have a donor vehicle I am doing the aluminum control arm swap and going to use the GTP brakes which will give me some nice 13" brakes up front. Mmmmmm a wider stance should be make corning much nicer.
Whats up people?
3800 all the way. You can find a donor car for under 5k plus it will be quick and reliable.the 2200 especially turbocharged is simply just not a good motor. I would swap in an eco or ld9, then turbo later before I spent a dime on the 2200. The 2200 in my 98 is simply there for gas mileage, and its not even staying there too long. Once my 05 turbo is finished to my liking, the 98 gets a 3400.
Yeah^
1996 Sunfire, 2.2L, 18" Equus/General Exclaim UHP
Alpine CDE-9845
u guys dont love the l67 lmao my regal with a zzp stage 2 ic and heat exchanger went 13.3 with bolt ons exhaust cai on stock inj and stock manifolds i could imagine what this would do on car that weights 1k lbs less then mines .....but hey is ur money and i bet is not a easy swap but im sure 4k would cover it
Wow, bumpin' old threads rulz...
Yeah it's an old thread, but the boosted 2200 would be faster and handle better than any 3800 swapped J for a budget of 4k. why even bother with the wiring hassels and subframe....guess some peole just like running backwards through a corn feild while attempting to grab their ancles.
I have a 00 sunfire with a 2.4 that knocks can't set my mind on what motor to put in it just put a 2.4 back in a 2.3 ho 3400 a 3800 sc I got the car for 400 bucks and the rest of it is mint what ever I do put in I'm wanting atleast 250 hp
JUCNBST wrote:Yeah it's an old thread, but the boosted 2200 would be faster and handle better than any 3800 swapped J for a budget of 4k. why even bother with the wiring hassels and subframe....guess some peole just like running backwards through a corn feild while attempting to grab their ancles.
Can the 2200 be safely boosted without having to build the block up? Even N/A I have seen those motors fail pretty common around my neck of the woods.
2000 Buick Regal GSE - "Gods Grocery Getter is powered by an L67 3800" -
333WHP
12.900 @ 109.91mph 2.166 60Ft (Fastest 1/4)
13.374 @ 110.01mph 2.467 60Ft (Fastest Trap)
2004 Chevy Cavalier - 15.7 @ 90mph (Semi-Modded)
Michael Dougherty wrote:JUCNBST wrote:Yeah it's an old thread, but the boosted 2200 would be faster and handle better than any 3800 swapped J for a budget of 4k. why even bother with the wiring hassels and subframe....guess some peole just like running backwards through a corn feild while attempting to grab their ancles.
Can the 2200 be safely boosted without having to build the block up? Even N/A I have seen those motors fail pretty common around my neck of the woods.
cast iron block, stock crank that will hold ~300+ hp, and who would boost an engine with stock rods and pistons? just sounds silly.
these engines don't "fall apart" because they get pushed too hard. the ohv only develops issues when it's not properly maintained.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, November 28, 2010 7:08 PM
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
Michael Dougherty wrote:JUCNBST wrote:Yeah it's an old thread, but the boosted 2200 would be faster and handle better than any 3800 swapped J for a budget of 4k. why even bother with the wiring hassels and subframe....guess some peole just like running backwards through a corn feild while attempting to grab their ancles.
Can the 2200 be safely boosted without having to build the block up? Even N/A I have seen those motors fail pretty common around my neck of the woods.
You can get 250whp on a boosted stock 2200 motor if tuned properly.
FU Tuning
comparing apples to oranges... nice.
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Michael Dougherty wrote:JUCNBST wrote:Yeah it's an old thread, but the boosted 2200 would be faster and handle better than any 3800 swapped J for a budget of 4k. why even bother with the wiring hassels and subframe....guess some peole just like running backwards through a corn feild while attempting to grab their ancles.
Can the 2200 be safely boosted without having to build the block up? Even N/A I have seen those motors fail pretty common around my neck of the woods.
cast iron block, stock crank that will hold ~300+ hp, and who would boost an engine with stock rods and pistons? just sounds silly.
these engines don't "fall apart" because they get pushed too hard. the ohv only develops issues when it's not properly maintained.
I'm with Rich about the maintenance issue... From what I've read, the LN2 only really suffered from cooling-system woes (Namely, rusted-out core-plugs) attributed to lack of proper maintenance. Other than that, they're stout.
How stout? Just ask Bob Guptil (Found here!) about running an unholy compression-ratio wit a carb & distributor! Even if you do push the long-block to the point of failure, the crank will
still survive!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
