What's up guys, my name is Josh, and this is my first post....


I've got an '04 Sunfire 2.2 Ecotec (automatic)

...and right now I've just got a goofy set up goin on: Custom piped dual exhaust with 4.5" mufflers and gutted the cat (Yeah i know, no backpressure, loudest exhaust around...just for fun) with a eBay P.O.S. universal style intake


But as of Jan. 1 it's time to get serious.... a mixture of "on-the-way" performance stuff and parts already in my possesion would include:


New Cosmo Racing full short ram intake
RK Sport Ram Air Hood
60mm ecotec custom throttle body
Tsudo Headers
magnaflow hi flow cat
RK Sport Dual exhaust
RK ignition springs
Upper and Lower Motor Mounts
Pending install, an HPTuner session at a local Performance shop (upon which I would get Dyno'd)


Lots of other upgrades, but none of which that I can think of having anything to do with power (suspension, audio, cosmetics, etc)

So my question is, to all of you who already possess these items...until I get Dyno'd and really find out...what kind of horsepower am I looking upon completion of all this? Is there anything else I should be considering? As you can see these are all pretty much bolt-ons, which is kinda what i was going for. If you have any other ideas, please let me know!

Thanks for reading...

probably looking at 15-20... maybe. it varies car to car.

Really? That's it? I figured the throttle body and headers would be big power gainers. Not sure how much power the ram-air hood would add, and i'm hoping the HPTuners session will help a lot. Anything I missed in that list that i just have to have?

15--20 without boost or nitrous.

Is the throttle body just a waste? Or is that a good chunk of that 15-20. If not, what would you say is the biggest part of the 15-20?

honestly, buy a hahn stage 2 turbo kit or a gm s/c kit for starters. The header, intake and throttle body will make more of a difference. that my friend, is getting serious.

GM Supercharger was heavily considered, but as i'm eclipsing 70,000 miles I don't want to boost an engine with such high mileage. So I figured when I graduate college and the parents give me 10,000 as a downpayment for the new car, i may drop the 6,000 for a brand new 2.0 ecotec s/c (cobalt ss/ion redline) engine from GM. not sure if that means I have the switch transmission or not...

Josh Angenend wrote:GM Supercharger was heavily considered, but as i'm eclipsing 70,000 miles I don't want to boost an engine with such high mileage. So I figured when I graduate college and the parents give me 10,000 as a downpayment for the new car, i may drop the 6,000 for a brand new 2.0 ecotec s/c (cobalt ss/ion redline) engine from GM. not sure if that means I have the switch transmission or not...

Well in this case being that you have basic bolt ons covered (according to your first post) I would say go get a spare eco head and do a cam basic port and polish and since your going to need to tune it anyway, throw some bigger injectors in and then tune it with HPT. I would bet with the conservative tune chevy graces us with that you would be in the +40-50hp range with a good strong cam, good, tune, and a decent headwork.

cheap horsepower is not possible, sorry. or at least it wont be cheap for long...

It will help alot if you go out, get a die grinder and a P&P kit from Standard abrasives and do the headwork yourself but you have to know where and when not to grind more than anything. Otherwise its not hard for someone to do. Just takes experience. ALOT of money can be saved here. (Think 90 bucks for kit and your die grinder rather than 300+ for basically the same "street/strip" P&P.

You will not be able to swap the 2.0SC motor into your cav. The computers are differant. They both work off two completely different reluctor ring signals (it has to do with how many teeth and where the indexing ring is on the wheel for the CKP and CMP sensor.) Of course if you DO manage the swap, (not even mentioning the mechanical aspect of getting it to fit and mount up cause its not a bolt in) and get the computer in as well you'll prolly find that the computer is not designed to run an auto transmission or if it is, its a different one then the one thats in there now. So unless an eco trans from the cobalt will fit into a cav as well it wont bolt up, work, or operate properly anyway and overall its just easer and less expensive to boost the motor you have.

And if your engine is strong enough and has been taken care of enough to run well and continue to run as it should it will run for 200,000+miles. Boost or not. Milage really shouldnt be all that much of a consideration if everything else is in proper order and within mechanical limits.







Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards

Why would you do the 2.0SC engine swap anyway? It's rated at 205hp. With the GM supercharger (less $$$) and headers, nice exhaust, cams, etc and your gonna be puttin down more than 205hp, or pretty damn close.

that gutted cat should give you at least 55 hp.....well worth polluting the air . congratulations

whiteboyz24 wrote:that gutted cat should give you at least 55 hp.....well worth polluting the air . congratulations

Keep your smart ass coments to your self, at least he didn't go out and spend 300 dollars on a Venom 400. The guy is just getting started.

rollie785 (Almir) wrote:

whiteboyz24 wrote:that gutted cat should give you at least 55 hp.....well worth polluting the air . congratulations

Keep your smart ass coments to your self, at least he didn't go out and spend 300 dollars on a Venom 400. The guy is just getting started.

Yeah man, a little rough there? I get it done about 2 weeks ago, because I knew i had the magnaflow on the way.

Also, to Alex, i drive a Sunfire, not a Cav, if it makes a difference. My local dealer told me the 2.0 s/c would swap no problem? Even if he was wrong, I may just get a new 2.2 and buy the supercharger kit, so that way I can keep my auto transmission.

Josh Angenend wrote:GM Supercharger was heavily considered, but as i'm eclipsing 70,000 miles I don't want to boost an engine with such high mileage.

70,000 isn't high at all. o_O

I have 177,700 miles.


2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero

Quote:

My local dealer told me the 2.0 s/c would swap no problem?

i wouldnt ever go to that dealer again lol

sounds like he has some money to me parents giving ya 10,000 for a down payment, i wish i was rich,, anyways dont get the rk sport spark plug springs(junk) and dont get an ebay throttle body if thats what your doing go to www.mantapart.com and get a throttle body. do it right or dont do it at all

Hahaha I'm still paying off my clutch upgrade!


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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...

2.0 lsj won't work in the jbody without a stand alone computer. reluctor wheels are different and all the electronics are different.

no need to upgrade either, the L61 (2.2) is a fine engine and can be replaced for a song and a dance ($400-$500 at local scrap yards) so if you blow one up no problem replacing it.

with the stuff you're putting on the car you're going to go from about 125whp to maybe 135whp if that.

dual exhaust will make your car heavier
the ram air hood doesn't make your car faster either
don't waste your time with the ignition springs

you should take the money saved from those and get larger injectors. Once you start tuning with HPT for a good AFR, the factory injectors hit over 100% duty cycle.

don't expect much from what you're doing tho. It'll be a gain, but it won't be substantial.

if you add a ported head to the mix with a new valvetrain and cams then you'll see a pretty nice gain.

if you want easy affordable horsepower go boost or spray nitrous. Nitrous is easier, but its more stress on the motor. Boost is more expensive, and more difficult to setup but is always there.. it won't run out like nitrous will.

Agreed^^


Caution: Redneck Posting
MMMM, HIDs

Wiat, I have a short ram intake, gutted cat, and a weld on muffler (Megan Racing), and I have 134 whp.


Caution: Redneck Posting
MMMM, HIDs

Alex Currington wrote:sounds like he has some money to me parents giving ya 10,000 for a down payment, i wish i was rich,, anyways dont get the rk sport spark plug springs(junk) and dont get an ebay throttle body if thats what your doing go to www.mantapart.com and get a throttle body. do it right or dont do it at all

The ebay companies like Revco that bore out throttle bodies are FAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRR more reputable than Mantapart. Mantapart has actually been in court for a while because of how @!#$ty their service (or lack thereof) has become. If you order anything from Mantapart, don't expect to recieve the product within this lifetime.


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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.

When you mention doin it right or not at all...i figured when it comes time to put a NEW ecotec 2.2 in there, not a $500 scrap yard one. Dealer says its like 5 grand to put it in.


I know 70,000 isn't a ton, but i put on 33,000 in the first year, and i'm on track for 28,000 this year. So with such high usage, i'm wondering if I should still do it or not until i get the new motor. I guess if i'm getting the new motor anyway, why does it matter when i get the s/c?


The more I think about it, gm supercharger is really gonna be the only real way to go. Because the car is just gonna be so heavy, with the duals, a 22-spear sound system (rear seat delete), 18s, etc.


Anyone know off the top of their head how much power the supercharger itself adds?

the gm supercharger puts you around 200 hp with the gm reflash.

OEM junk for $500 or OEM junk for $6000

hmm...

what do you mean by "oem junk"? why is the ecotec junk?

OEM = boring... He's not saying that the ecotec is junk... Well actually he did say that but he ment that a stock ecotec is really not that great! If you want to go boosted and make some good HP your going to need a decent build of your internals. In that case you might as well start with a cheap junkyard motor and build it in your garage until your ready for the swap. After a complete build, mileage doesn't really matter anymore because the motor is ready to go!