Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone has any pics of a 2.2 head that has been cut through the ports. I have the head off my 96 2.2 to replace lifters and do a general overhaul of it and figured I'll do a good PNP of it while I'm in there and this will guide me so I don't hit water jackets.

Also, what's the most I would want to deck the head for higher compression, .010?

Lol, I chopped one up the other day. I'll try to get pics up tomorrow.



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

^^ Sweet I've been planning on the same thing eventually, but I got my project schedule got royally f-ed once again when the timing belt tensioner on the bug decided to break off and wedge between the cam gear and the motor mount bracket...




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got those pics up yet?!!

Sorry, I spent the day working on our Baja car project, and doing a CV axle and window motor on a Camry, so I didn't get any pictures. Now I'm going to go continue seam welding the Cav, you will have to wait until tomorrow to get your pictures



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

lol, it's no problem, I'm just taking the valves out of the head now. I really do appreciate it though!

wow, this head has sooo many flaws in the casting it is insane. So far I've spent 5 hours on the #1 cylinder and I'm into my 3rd hour on cylinder #2.

I can see being able to pick up a decent amount of power just doing a basic "cleaning of the flaws". I'm going a little beyond that though, I'm working on the short side radius of each port, taking out the hump in the exhaust port, opening up the bowls a little more and unshrouding the valves....though there is not much room to unshroud them.

I'll be sure to get some pics up when I get done.

**oh yea, I'm also just using a dremel with the grinding stones and polishing wheels you can buy at walmart. It's taking about 2 1/2 of the larger stones per cylinder.

Jason

Be careful, the short side radius is the quickest place to ruin the air flow of a head.

MadJack wrote:Be careful, the short side radius is the quickest place to ruin the air flow of a head.

Lol, this I know. I've ported a few heads so I should be able to manipulate it slightly in my favor

This isn't quite the center of the port, since it was cut to check spring seat thickness, but it'll give you an idea. The second level cut (not all the way through) shows the 'hump' can be safely taken out.



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

Well, that certainly opens the door!


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Hey Josh, what is the thickness below the spring seat? It looks substantial enough to machine the .090" for the LS6/Comp Cams springs.

As for the Vane in the exhaust runner, it's supposed to keep the exhaust velocity up. According to the Chevy Power Guide, they recommend you leave them in there. If you notice it's location, it's just after the Short side radius, where the exhaust gas flow is nearly non-existent. IMHO I'd leave them in there, just polish them. It looks like it would just prevent an eddy of gas flow after the turn, keeping the gas velocity up, by occupying the space the eddy would form.

well, i've got some pics of the what I have done so far, but i'll start up another thread on it. I ended up taking the vane out, but I'm planning to go turbo in the next year.

I've stated it before, I still think a boosted moter is better off with the vane removed, just for sheer volume of flow. A N/A motor would probably be better off keep the vane, to mainyain port velocity and scavaging.

MadJack wrote:I've stated it before, I still think a boosted moter is better off with the vane removed, just for sheer volume of flow. A N/A motor would probably be better off keep the vane, to mainyain port velocity and scavaging.

agreed as well. I figured I don't want to take the head out again when i do the turbo conversion, so just get it over with now, lol. It has taken me nearly an hour to grind each one of those SOB's down!!

It also appears that opening the exhaust port exit more than a gasket match might show more of a gain than expected as well.... Look at how the whole port seems to bulge between the valve and the exhaust face of the head!




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That was done as a move towards economy. Forgive me for quoting, but according to David Vizard's book "Performance With Economy", an increase of exhaust flow of as much as 30% with the stock valves & the intake merely "cleaned-up" can net a gain of .5-4% in fuel economy over the operation range of the engine. It's also the same reason why the intake/exhaust valve size ratio is so small (Numerically) on this engine: To help this engine produce better economy.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

MadJack wrote:Hey Josh, what is the thickness below the spring seat? It looks substantial enough to machine the .090" for the LS6/Comp Cams springs

It's pretty thick, I don't forsee any problems. I also have a few 2200 heads, but they were kind of exppensive to cut up

Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:It also appears that opening the exhaust port exit more than a gasket match might show more of a gain than expected as well.... Look at how the whole port seems to bulge between the valve and the exhaust face of the head!

That's just because of where the cut was made, it doesn't actually do that



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

Well, I just ripped the head off of the $300 sunfire that PJ has sitting around the shop... I was going to do my first port and polish on it up until I found that the number 3 chamber is partially melted from what looks like an extreme lean condition/detonation.... so sometime this week it gets put on the chopsaw at work. Might be a few days until I get to it since I've been being kept occupied with getting one of the lines back up from a fire and major reconfiguation, but hopefully by friday I'll have slices of every port/spring seat with detailed pics and some critical measurements with the vernier calipers.




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Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:Well, I just ripped the head off of the $300 sunfire that PJ has sitting around the shop... I was going to do my first port and polish on it up until I found that the number 3 chamber is partially melted from what looks like an extreme lean condition/detonation.... so sometime this week it gets put on the chopsaw at work. Might be a few days until I get to it since I've been being kept occupied with getting one of the lines back up from a fire and major reconfiguation, but hopefully by friday I'll have slices of every port/spring seat with detailed pics and some critical measurements with the vernier calipers.

After using the chopsaw on this head, I won't do it again...they just hate aluminum. Put it on a bandsaw.
What year is the motor?



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

I can try the bandsaw too, may have to actually since I'm looking to try and get every slice to go right up the center of each port to its valve so that we don't find out the hard way that the water jacket comes a little closer to one port/seat than another.

I believe its a 98 model year head... Might be 99, but definitely one of the two and not a 2000+ head.




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I cant wait for this, because this might mean that i might be finishing my head soon!