okay so heres my plan im going with on my 98 cav 2.2 ohv
aem cold air intake
cat-back exhoust-with pacesetter header, 2.25 inc
gonna pull engine
then put a stage 2 spec clutch
lighter flywheel
rk sport motor mounts
i was wanting to port and poish the head but when i had a blown head gasket the head was warped so i got it resurfaced
and they had to cut so much off im using a shim so when i pull it off will it need to be resurfaced? will i beable to use the shim again?
and i live by stl MO and i can not find a machine shop that ports and polishes?
and how much does p&p cost? i no its differnt but?
any input or ideas
i have like 1600 on budget so input?
port and polsih is charged way different for every shop, i judge how much tim ei have in them and charge accordingly. how much did they shave the head. i have cut over .120 off a head and no shim
since you're pulling the engine... why not replace it with an Ecotec?
It'll be cheaper, and probable make more power.
you could always do a p&p yourself. and get rid of that spacer, it will give you a little boost in compression while you are at it.
I would recomend a resurface on the head everytime it gets pulled, as well as pressure tested.
Willem wrote:since you're pulling the engine... why not replace it with an Ecotec?
It'll be cheaper, and probable make more power.
it may have more aftermarket support and ultimately, more power potential, but it will not be cheaper than getting a 2200 to the same hp level as a stock eco.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
plus, OHV rocks out with its c*ck out.
Willem wrote:since you're pulling the engine... why not replace it with an Ecotec?
It'll be cheaper, and probable make more power.
He's got a 98. The eco swap is not financially worth the gain. He'll have to rewire the whole car and swap the half the interior. Definatly not wort it.
The Outlaw
98 Pontiac Sunfire (Christine)
2200 5spd
Red with Black racing stripes.
Don't let the punks get to you. If they can't say anything helpful its because they probably
have VERY LITTLE IF ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS . Talking crap is just their way of hiding that
fact. They figure the more crap they say the less likley anyone will know how dumb they are.
Willem wrote:since you're pulling the engine... why not replace it with an Ecotec?
It'll be cheaper, and probable make more power.
Or better yet drop a 2.4HO in.
_________________________
2.3*
_________________________
NO
A V-8 thats how you should roll
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
okay thanks guys
i think my heads leaking coolant again
:/
and how hard is it to pull the engine? on these j bodys?
thanks for any input guys
not that hard. I pulled the trans with mine, and it all came out pretty easy.
okay well im pullin it in our shop for the winter (concete in there now not gravel
)
and pull the engine and get a good look at it
so this is a pain in the @ss
owell good winter project
thx again on the info
If you get a spare head to PnP make sure you get a 98 head. Its the only year (engine year not model year) that the 2200 came with an EGR. You can find them on all 98s and some 99s that had their engine manufactured in 98.
The Outlaw
98 Pontiac Sunfire (Christine)
2200 5spd
Red with Black racing stripes.
Don't let the punks get to you. If they can't say anything helpful its because they probably
have VERY LITTLE IF ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS . Talking crap is just their way of hiding that
fact. They figure the more crap they say the less likley anyone will know how dumb they are.
the outlaw wrote:If you get a spare head to PnP make sure you get a 98 head. Its the only year (engine year not model year) that the 2200 came with an EGR. You can find them on all 98s and some 99s that had their engine manufactured in 98.
Actually, the LN2-pwrd S-trucks still got it 'til the end for their run.
And (Sadly) the killer of the LN2 in terms of reliability (In all years) was head-gasket problems & core-plug rust-out woes (Although I've yet to see it happen) causing coolant leaks. A machining of the head (Minimally) along with a good gasket (Fel-Pro Blue comes to mind) should insure the top, while a check of the core plugs (And possible replacement of them) should guarantee no more woes.
While your at it, if the engine has around or more than 100,000mi, replace the timing chain set. I know this is seldom heard of on LN2-pwrd J-cars but that's when they usually fail in the S-trucks. And if the oiling system gets ahold of the fragments, you're lookin' at need for a whole new engine. Use the GM pieces, since many of the cheaper replacement sets have a tensioner spring that doesn't set properly (Setting when it sees hot engine oil, then relaxing when the engine cools) like the GM piece does, causing slack & chain-slap at dead-cold start-up. And Cloyes tensioner/guide assembly's metal is only 3/4 as thick. Believe me... that comes to haunt you.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Alex Patch wrote:There is no need for the stage 2 clutch. Does that motor have a forged crank? If not, Don't put the lighter flywheel on there unless you plan on putting a new crank in when it breaks. You should build the motor first before you P&P it. If you are going to pull the motor, put a cam in it and swap pulleys.
And you sir just earned the "I don't know WTF i'm talking about" award for the week...
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
jersey i do love your sig, and for the slex dude ya no forged crank is needed. also p+p on a stock motor is jsut fine the head is hwat chokes up these motors
hey, if your interested in getting your head ported and polished for a really good price just let me know. There is a guy in KC that does it and gets them flow bench tested before he finishes. The price he quoted for me on an LN2 head was 150 but he said that everything had to be done that your going to do to the head. STL is only 3 hours from KC so it is almost worth the drive to drop off the head and pick it back up. The company is New Kid Cylinder heads and the guy does amazing work. He has done some crazy evos and stis, some that are putting out over 500hp. Also he has done a civic hatch with close to 600 hp to the wheels. All this can be proven by the local guys driving the vehicles and if you need his info, just let me know.
JerseyJayLN2 (Scarab) wrote:Willem wrote:since you're pulling the engine... why not replace it with an Ecotec?
It'll be cheaper, and probable make more power.
it may have more aftermarket support and ultimately, more power potential, but it will not be cheaper than getting a 2200 to the same hp level as a stock eco.
as much as I advocate swapping ecos in, I agree. doing the swap on a pre 2000 is not for the faint of heart and I'd advise against it in this case.
but in the same breath I don't feel 1600 is a worth while amount to spend on the OHV. Its going to take 2500 minimum to see anything worth while (IE. turbo) I'd either focus on doing something with a turbo or spend the money elsewhere (suspension for example) the OHV just isn't worth it in my opinion. It needs a much larger budget to see anything worth while.
To put it into perspective, you're going to blow 1600 bucks to make a little more than 100hp at the wheels.. its kinda sad if you think about it.
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hey, if your interested in getting your head ported and polished for a really good price just let me know. There is a guy in KC that does it and gets them flow bench tested before he finishes. The price he quoted for me on an LN2 head was 150 but he said that everything had to be done that your going to do to the head. STL is only 3 hours from KC so it is almost worth the drive to drop off the head and pick it back up. The company is New Kid Cylinder heads and the guy does amazing work. He has done some crazy evos and stis, some that are putting out over 500hp. Also he has done a civic hatch with close to 600 hp to the wheels. All this can be proven by the local guys driving the vehicles and if you need his info, just let me know.
what does porting DOHC and SOHC heads have anything to do with 2V per cylinder heads? I'd feel more comfortable letting a V8 shop port an OHV head than anyone else since its what they're used to.
Alex Patch wrote:There is no need for the stage 2 clutch. Does that motor have a forged crank? If not, Don't put the lighter flywheel on there unless you plan on putting a new crank in when it breaks. You should build the motor first before you P&P it. If you are going to pull the motor, put a cam in it and swap pulleys.
can you tell the difference between your ass and a hole in the ground? cuz by reading this statement, I'd assume the answer is no.
MadJack wrote:Alex Patch wrote:There is no need for the stage 2 clutch. Does that motor have a forged crank? If not, Don't put the lighter flywheel on there unless you plan on putting a new crank in when it breaks.
I guess you haven't seen what Bob Guptil didn't do to his crank. Damn near blew the enitire bottom end, but the crank was fine! Others on here have run in excess of 350 hp (boosted) on stock bottom end motors. Remember these motors have two main journals for every rod throw, as opposed to V design motors that typically have two rod throws between each pair of main journals. In other words, they have twice number of main journals supporting the crank as the V motors, thus giving them far greater stability.
Agreed, and nice to see you back MadJack, its been a while.
JerseyJayLN2 (Scarab) wrote:Alex Patch wrote:There is no need for the stage 2 clutch. Does that motor have a forged crank? If not, Don't put the lighter flywheel on there unless you plan on putting a new crank in when it breaks. You should build the motor first before you P&P it. If you are going to pull the motor, put a cam in it and swap pulleys.
And you sir just earned the "I don't know WTF i'm talking about" award for the week...
also agreed.
I also agree with PJ, ohv are not for the faint of wallet to build, and a shop more familiar with V-8 is going to do a better job on the motor.....since it is the same basic design.
I also have to say an eco swap into a car with no BCM is going to be a lot of work (as Pj mentioned). But to me, its worth it. I have a high power odd ball that I am proud of. It was not cheap, nor easy to get everything, but I for one am glad I stuck with OHV.
Luis Marroquin wrote:hey, if your interested in getting your head ported and polished for a really good price just let me know. There is a guy in KC that does it and gets them flow bench tested before he finishes. The price he quoted for me on an LN2 head was 150 but he said that everything had to be done that your going to do to the head. STL is only 3 hours from KC so it is almost worth the drive to drop off the head and pick it back up. The company is New Kid Cylinder heads and the guy does amazing work. He has done some crazy evos and stis, some that are putting out over 500hp. Also he has done a civic hatch with close to 600 hp to the wheels. All this can be proven by the local guys driving the vehicles and if you need his info, just let me know.
yea man if you could get me some info on or a number id give them a call
okay so you guys are saying i shouldnt get a lighter flywheel
unless i get a better crank? its hard to find pullys for the ohv and the cam id have to get regrinded + on jb parts a cams like 350 or somthing
so this is what my plan is
port and polish head
lighter flywheel
stage 1 spec clutch
full exhoust with header
and cold air intake
with comestic head gasket
arp studs
rksport motor mounts
i mean im still a newb i know the basics but idk
i was starting to get confuzed
????
thx for the input also
the crank is all but indestructable, you can put a lightweight flyweel and stage 2 clutch without worry of the crank.
I would also suggest some oversized valves with 1:6 roller rockers if you are doing all that head work.
I assume you are getting the thinner cometic gasket to boost compression? Also, when you get the head ported have them deck it for a few reasons:
level it out for re-install
get the correct surface finish for the cometic gasket
boost compression a little more.
I think all that, maybe a SLIGHTLY larger TB, like the 56mm out of the 2.3 will give you a nice increase in power and responce. your not going to be a 10 second bad boy, but you will definitely notice the difference.
