I have a question about a '96 Sunfire convertible that I am currently working on. I have been working on it on and off for a while now, so it has been mostly stationary for a couple of years. I have always been able to go out and get in it, and crank it right up with no difficulty. This last time I tried to start it it was sitting for about a month. I can get it to turn over, but it never fires up. I had thought at first that it might be the theftlock system, because I had problems with it recently when I installed a new gauge cluster. I had reset it then, and everything was back to normal. I tried to reset it this time, but I don't think it was activated because my light never flashed on the dash. I figured out that I was not getting fuel by pulling the return fuel line below the diaphram regulator, and found no flow. I put it back together and sprayed carb cleaner into the air tube to the throttle body, and it hit like it was going to start. I started checking around, and decided it was the fuel pump, because I was not hearing the familiar buzzing sound when I turned the key. I replaced it, and the filter, and still got nothin'. I had tested the fuel pump before the install to make sure that it was good, and it worked fine. I again pulled the supply and return fuel lines to check for flow and had no flow. I jumpered the fuel pump from the pigtail harness on the pump to the battery and the fuel pump came on, and I got flow through the fuel rail. I thought it might start with a full fuel rail, so I tried it again, and got nothin'. I have since put the wiring back to normal. I am under the impression that I might have an interlock through the computer, or the wiring is faulty somewhere. I have run out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just to start, is your CEL on? Are your fuses okay? Did you check to see if the relay is activating?

I don't know what a CEL is, but yeah I checked the relay, and it's good. The fuses all looked good as well. Thanks

Check Engine Light=CEL

I would have checked for power and ground at the tank before I bought a pump. Sounds like thats the problem since you hooked straight power to it and it worked.

I originally purchased a pump out of a salvage yard in order to cut cost....but I could not get the pump to run by hooking up straight power. My original one would not run either. Both of those pumps were factory units. The new one is an Airtex brand pump. I don't know why they wouldn't, but they wouldn't. I decided at that point since I got the second one out of a junker, that I must've grabbed another bad pump by luck of the draw. I now have peace of mind knowing that the new one will work. It helped in the process of elimination, but was quite pricey for my "hit and miss" mechanical skills.

We know the relay works,but is the relay activating when the ignition switch is turned to run?

If you do hear the relay activate, check to see if you have voltage at one of the switched contacts in the relay socket, with the ignition switch in the run position. If you have voltage at the socket, then the relay's points are burnt (i've had that happen to me.) If no voltage, then you have a wiring problem up stream from there.

If you don't hear the relay activate, then the your not getting the relay signal from the PCM (secrity interlock, bad wiring or something else in the PCM.)

I did a voltage test on the relay socket today. I am getting power through the box when the key is turned on. I decided to remove the relay right next to the relay in question, the one for the a/c and plug it into the fuel pump socket. No difference. I don't know where to go from here. I am definitely not getting the pump when the key is put into the forward position. No audible buzzing. And I know from the bypass to direct power the other day that I will be able to hear the pump, so I'm at a loss.