How do I do the heated o2 sensor for the upstream o2 on a 98 z24 cavalier? I mean, there is only 1 wire that goes to the upstream o2, so what do I do to accomadate the 4 wire o2 that is the heated one?
Thanks
Matt
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
The purple wire from your oem O2 sensor should go to the wire designated for the heated O2.
There should be two black wires that should designate them being ground and the leftover wire is for the 12 volts that turns on the heater of the O2 sensor. You'll have to use a switched 12 volt power source to be able to make this work or like some have done, tap into the rear O2 sensor power wire.
Hope this helps.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
There is a harness for your system inwhich it will be plug and play. I don't know who makes it, but it was talked about it here before.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Thanks for the info guys, and I dont think I will buy the adapter kit, rather buy the heated o2 and solder everythign together. And john, I dont know why I didnt do this when you tryed to show me like 4 months ago, but thanks.
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
John Higgins wrote:Here you go Caspers retro kit
Holy paycheck Batman.
That's outrageous.
I made my own harness and like Matthew mentioned, soldered and heat shrunk everything together.
Cost for the entire harness and including the O2 sensor, less than 15 bucks.
Good luck with it Matthew.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Sorry I like the Casper kit, looks better and looks GM.
FU Tuning
I know this is probably a crazy ?, but do I need to get the 4 wire heated o2, or can I use the 3 wire? The reason I ask is because if I use the 4 wire, then I will have an extra wire, or 2 wires that go for a ground, just wondering...
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
If you've got a stock exhaust manifold, you won't need the heated O2 sensor.
But with a header on the car, this places the O2 sensor far down the exhaust which not only means it has time to cool down with a header but it means that it'll take that much longer to heat up and do it's job. This is one reason for the heated setup, to offset this time delay for the closed loop operation of the O2 sensor.
On the wiring, two wires are a common ground, one wire for the pcm hookup, and the other for a switched 12 volt source.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
ok, I do have a full exhaust. So this is for me, and as far as symptoms of needing a heated o2, what are they? I have a sputter in the idle that happens after 30 seconds of running, and goes away after about 5 seconds of sputtering down to about 300 rpm. S hopefully this solves my issue.
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
The problem I had with a one wire O2 sensor like the one that came with my car is that once I installed the header, it would take forever for the car to go into closed loop.
This is where the O2 sensor starts to adjust a/f ratios according to what it sees once it's heated up.
The symptoms I had was severe stumbling off of idle and when I'd shut the car off to go into a store, come back, and restart the car, the car again would stumble really bad especially when trying to pull out into traffic which coudl've been a concern.
WIth the advent of the heated O2 sensor, it takes 45 seconds or less for closed loop on a cold startup and less than 15 seconds for a startup when the engine is warm.
No more stumbling when leaving a store and never had an issue with it again.
Hope that helps.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
My 97 Z24 with stock exhaust manifold but full 2.25 exhaust from the flange back had the same issues most have with a header. When you increase exhaust flow there is a chance you will have this issue with a non heated O2.
FU Tuning
color me lost but i still have little knowledge pertaining to these. how do you know you need one? ive had a header and different exhaust components for several years and have never had CEL's or bad running engines because of it.
will i need one running a turbo manifold?
z yaaaa wrote:color me lost but i still have little knowledge pertaining to these. how do you know you need one? ive had a header and different exhaust components for several years and have never had CEL's or bad running engines because of it.
will i need one running a turbo manifold?
If you are not having issues then you do not need it. I would not expect you to need one with a turbo set-up. The heat a turbo produces would take care of the issue.
FU Tuning
You'll also be running a wideband which will do more for tuning and a/f ratios along with HPT.
So if you're not having any issues like John stated, you'll be good to continue with something that works.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
ok... why do others have issues then? different design in headers?
on thing i guess i should point out is the fact that my first (front) 02 in real close to the head in the first runner. i guess having the 02 down far to get all the runners' readings needs the heated 02?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, November 14, 2008 8:26 PM
z yaaaa wrote:ok... why do others have issues then? different design in headers?
on thing i guess i should point out is the fact that my first (front) 02 in real close to the head in the first runner. i guess having the 02 down far to get all the runners' readings needs the heated 02?
WIth the header it usually move the O2 sensor downstream more (further away from the motor), so exhaust is starting to cool off. Also if you have a ceramic coated header (which it seems what most have when they have issues) your exhaust flows better, faster. So the heat is not there as long heating up the sensor.
It also comes down to exhaust set-up overall. If you are running a header, with cat, resonator, muffler, your flow is not going to be as good as a car with header, no cat and a open muffler. The lack of flow could help keep heat in the exhaust to heat the sensor.
My friend has a 99 cavalier with a 2200 3 speed. He put a pacesetter ceramic coated header on with stock exhaust. No problems. Later added full exhaust. He has a air/fuel gauge on the stock sensor, weill with the full exhaust at idle the gauge does not move, but once he starts driving the gauge works as normal. I think this is because of the flow of the heat. I will say I could be wrong.
FU Tuning
z yaaaa wrote:color me lost but i still have little knowledge pertaining to these. how do you know you need one?
Throttle hesitation when cold.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
^Heated O2 solved my previous problems with this. I love it.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
so is the casper kit sensor that comes with it a good sensor?
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