i have a 2000 cavi with the 2200 3t40 and when i bought it it ran a 21 in the quarter mile i put a glass pack and a warm air intake and now it runs 18.1 if i cut the cat out how much do you suppose it will help
Something is seriously wrong, you should be running low 16 to mid/upper 15.
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Quote:
Something is seriously wrong, you should be running low 16 to mid/upper 15.
Wrong.
it's a 2200... auto....
it should be high 16, low 17s
i think its driver error.
Pushrods wrote:Something is seriously wrong, you should be running low 16 to mid/upper 15.
No he should not be not with an 2200 paired with an auto trans.
And here folks lies the problem with bench racing. Anyone can post but it does not mean they know what they are talking about.
To answer your question cutting out the cat will not net you any gain in the 1/4. It would just make it louder and sound even worse. FYI jbody cats are straight through anyway.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Seriously...you're going to argue over a second of stock time over 16. The point is that there is something seriously wrong as he should be running much better than 20.
Wade, don't go startin @!#$ again, the idea of the site is to help people.
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And to answer the second question:
If you want to cut the cat out you can but you won't see any gain without 1. replacing your header and 2. funneling the exhaust exit outward.
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Pushrods wrote:Seriously...you're going to argue over a second of stock time over 16. The point is that there is something seriously wrong as he should be running much better than 20.
Wade, don't go startin @!#$ again, the idea of the site is to help people.
Ohh Ok this post now makes sense. After seeing the retarded post you made and your attack on me I looked to see your real name. Rob Durret that explains it all.
Don't worry I have not forgot the point of this site is to help others. Clearing up incorrect info gets old, so don't be surprised if I seem a little snappy about it.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
my friend has a 4 speed but i have a 3 speed and his is alot faster
i have alson had a compression test and it has 130 lbs per cylinder and every thing seems ok its only got 85000 miles with new injectors and fuel pump
can anyone tell me if it will help by swapping out my 3t40 for a 4t40e thanks
Matt Rabida wrote:i have alson had a compression test and it has 130 lbs per cylinder and every thing seems ok its only got 85000 miles with new injectors and fuel pump
can anyone tell me if it will help by swapping out my 3t40 for a 4t40e thanks
if you are going to the trouble of swapping trannys just to gain a second or 2 then you might as well go ful bore and swap in an eco or a 2.4
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
The gearing on the autos suck, especially the 3sp (TH125C/3T40).
Cavalier 2.2L / 2200 Automatic Transmission Ratios
Type :-------3-speed automatic ------4-speed elec. Automatic
-----------------------------------------------with OD and traction control
-----------------TH125C/3T40-------------4T40E
Layout :------FWD transverse----------FWD transverse
Gear ratios:
1st :----------2.84 ---------------------------2.96
2nd : --------1.60 ---------------------------1.63
3rd : ---------1.00 ---------------------------1.00
4th : ---------N/A-----------------------------0.68
Reverse: ----2.07 ----------------------------2.13
Final
drive
Ratios : -----3.18-----------------------------3.63
Swapping the 3T40 for the 4T40E is possible, but you'll need a tranny, PCM, wiring harness and the dash panel and console indicator , if you want to see the proper information displayed. For more performance on the 4T40E install the 3.91 differential from a 2.4 TC (LS or Z24) J-Body. Both trannies use the same torque converters, which is normally a 2375rpm stall stock, but are available upto 2950 rpm stall. Aftermarkets are available also.
For information on the 3T40 read these threads: speed auto, finally done and finally installed by Funky Bottoms (Event) and Stock Torque Converters, 3 Speed Gears and more by me.
Edited for spacing
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, November 10, 2008 12:22 PM
Wade Jarvis wrote:Pushrods wrote:Seriously...you're going to argue over a second of stock time over 16. The point is that there is something seriously wrong as he should be running much better than 20.
Wade, don't go startin @!#$ again, the idea of the site is to help people.
Ohh Ok this post now makes sense. After seeing the retarded post you made and your attack on me I looked to see your real name. Rob Durret that explains it all.
Don't worry I have not forgot the point of this site is to help others. Clearing up incorrect info gets old, so don't be surprised if I seem a little snappy about it.
I like how you call that an attack. You may act like an ass at times but I'm not attacking you.
Oh and if I ever get ahold of another sunfire I will prove the sub 15 quarter. Sorry you apparently can't drive.
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Leave it to MadJack to know the machine better than us all! Thanks again Jack for the further info on the 4T40E. Now to find a 4-cyl Fiero w/auto for cheap to put the LN2/4-spd trans-axle combo into...
Better fueling, better ignition, 33% more power from 22% less displacement, an electronic OD trans w/paddles added in a 2300lbs car that handles like it's on rails & is second in safety to only a Volvo that is capable of possibly delivering 35mpg or better. Yep... Sounds like a cheap way to have fun while driving to me!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
i have a 4 speed from a 96 cavi the wiring and computer will that work
Nickelin Dimer wrote:Now to find a 4-cyl Fiero w/auto for cheap to put the LN2/4-spd trans-axle combo into...
Better fueling, better ignition, 33% more power from 22% less displacement, an electronic OD trans w/paddles added in a 2300lbs car that handles like it's on rails & is second in safety to only a Volvo that is capable of possibly delivering 35mpg or better. Yep... Sounds like a cheap way to have fun while driving to me!
The Iron Duke is a decent engine but I'd rather swap in an eco or the 2.3HO.
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pushrods, please re-read, he want's to get the fiero to put in a J-body LN2 into it, not and Iron Duke. true, the Iron Duke is a great engine, but it's heavy as hell IIRC.
smaller, lighter, but slightly more powerful engine in an already lightweight car? why not? run lots of boost through her and you're set.
Wouldn't even need the boost... the 33% increase over stock HP will do wonders for drivability. Heck, even 20% does wonders... As I've learned from the swap to a higher output engine (12hp vs. 10hp) on my old lawn tractor. Yeah, I know what you're thinkin'... Apples & oranges. But still, it's an improvement regardless of what it's on, and it translates to all motor vehicles. And the lighter weight of the engine will add nicely to the mileage.
Hmmmm... Maybe I should also look into those 12" brake kits I see for them so regularly.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I vote have fun and boost it
If I reach the point where I feel like it's not as grand as it was when I completed it (Like so many rodders who've gotten used-to their rides), than I'll consider a water-air intercooled turbo system. At least I have a good idea as where to look for parts to fit it (Here!). But safety first... You gotta be able to control something before you build-up the power it has.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Brad wrote:pushrods, please re-read, he want's to get the fiero to put in a J-body LN2 into it, not and Iron Duke. true, the Iron Duke is a great engine, but it's heavy as hell IIRC.
smaller, lighter, but slightly more powerful engine in an already lightweight car? why not? run lots of boost through her and you're set.
Gotcha.
I say if you've got the money go for it.
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