So, I have read through lots of the engine break in posts, but didn't come across any that had to do with a new spec clutch.

The instructions I got with the spec stage 3 say, to break it in, in stop and go traffic, but not at WOT for 500 miles(not too sure on this, too lazy to go and look).

But the engine break in periods i have read through say you need to get to WOT to seat the rings properly. So they kinda contadict each other.

Any advice, help, experience on this?

Or am I better off to, drop the new engine in without the clutch(which I don't really want to do), break in the engine, then throw the new clutch in?

running at wot wont hurt under a light load i wouldnt think

IMO, I would go WOT at say... 50/60, clutch is doing less work than say if you just dumped it, lol.

Ok maybe i am retarted but by the 50/60? you mean go to 50 or 60 mph then go WOT?

I guess that makes sence, cause it would be a lighter load.

Any engine builders wanna pipe in any time that would be great

well i build engines but mine are race car engines and i say break it in how your going to drive it

thanks. I appreciate at least someone answering. I know there are lots of guys out there that have built eco's with new clutches at the same time. I just don't want any headaches down the road. Maybe i'll ask ttr for advice.

If your using a clutch with a kevlar disc you do not need to break it in.


01' Z24 5 speed
422whp/400wtq
T4 Turbocharged
Built LD9
HP Tuners

This is what I do when breaking in a customers car or my own that has had both an engine rebuild and a new clutch.

For the engine if it's a performance engine ... beat it like a red headed step child. Idle it until it comes up to temp......and then drive it hard, redline each gear and be very heavy on the throttle for about 20-30 minutes. After that the rings should be seated. Change the oil and the engine is broken in.

When the clutch is fresh the only thing I do differently is be very gentle but consistent releasing the clutch. Dumping the clutch is what breaks things, riding the clutch is what burns things. Once the clutch is engaged it's not seeing nearly as much force as when it's being engaged.

That's what most of the engine break in procedures I have read about have said. For the main purpose of seating the rings.

Thank you for the advice. I think I will take your method and give it a go. This won't be until spring still need a few items, like balance shaft removal kit and blower cams.