this is probably a stupid question and I'll probably get roasted by the person who posts all the stickies and FAQS but I'm gonna ask it anyway.
I'm just a brainless 16 year old trying to learn the ways of a car baby steps at a time...

If I install this intake on my car (http://www.amazon.com/96-97-CHEVY-CAVALIER-INTAKE-FILTER/dp/B001LQT54O/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1234393674&sr=8-23) or any other similar intake on my '95 2.2L OHV, that introduces more air into the engine, right???--thus the claimed increases in HP and torque...

If this is true, doesn't that mess up the air/fuel mixture??? Or doesn't this make any difference???

I have the feeling that this question was asked before...it's just something I'm curious about...

Alright...I'm prepared for hammering for asking so bring it on

Tim H

There's nothing to be concerned about other than wasting money on a mod which won't gain you anything. Save your money for nitrous or a turbo.
Intakes will not significantly change your a/f ratio. You would need to do a lot of head work, i.e. valve job, port and polish & a cam.

There is nothing much you can really do for little money to make your car faster besides maybe serious weight reduction, which is why I recommend saving your money for a real power adder, or a different car if speed is what you desire.


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Hahn Stage II - Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Turbo-back Exhaust | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | Team Green LSD | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |

if you want proven effects. K+N air filter in stock box. other than that, its just a noise maker. i enjoy my noise maker though :-p

^^^ what he said....it just makes more noise, doesn't really make a difference in power. Some poeple also think it looks better than the plastic airbox...My suggestion, is if you get an intake, get a cheap one and just put on a good filter like K&N

You really want to put your money into an air-intake tract? Use it to get the parts to fab-up one that collects the on-coming air the car sees as it rolls down the road. Then you will see a difference.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Nickelin Dimer wrote:You really want to put your money into an air-intake tract? Use it to get the parts to fab-up one that collects the on-coming air the car sees as it rolls down the road. Then you will see a difference.

Wrong


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Hahn Stage II - Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Turbo-back Exhaust | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | Team Green LSD | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |

An intake such as a cold air intake or a ram air intake MAY increase your performance, BUT it is on the magnitude of around 0-5 hp which is very little..... The money you spend on it could be used for other mods. Also to answer the A/F question; the answer is no it will not make a difference. Keep reading on the forum and you will learn a lot.

I don't know whats dumber.. the original post, or the responses thus far.


buy the cheapest intake you can find for the ohv. But be warned, most won't fit well.

power increase will be slim to none, but still better than a stock airbox (which is primarily designed to quiet the engine). Go ahead, some one try to argue that bellows are good for air flow..

cold air vs warm air.. short ram.. whatever gay terminology you want to use for an intake has essentially NO difference in Intake Air Temperature (IAT). Its been tested time and time again, and a cold air taking air from the wheel well vs a short ram in the engine bay.. I think was a 1 degree difference in favor of the SHORT ram intake.

Buy the cheapest pipe you can find.. and if you want to be fancy, upgrade the filter.

And don't even get me started on "ram air". the biggest load of crap.. how much forward momentum do we need to see any benefit vs a standard intake? 100mph+? Please.. completely impractical for a non-race car.


AFR is compensated for by the computer.. thats the whole point of fuel injection. This isn't your daddy's 4 barrel muscle car.

...however. The tables in the ecu that control fueling cannot automatically compensate for changes in airflow (which is changed with an intake.. even if its ever so slight). So whats that mean?

will you see a gain?
yes, but very little. Primarily, it'll sound a lot cooler.


will you hurt anything?
no. the change in airflow isn't enough to be dangerous. if you were to add something like a ported head and a cam, or a turbocharger.. then you'd have problems. In cases like those, its necessary to tune the car.

can you tune with the intake?
yes, and you will get a bit more out of it than if you were to just bolt it on the car.. but its a tube with a filter on it. On a naturally aspirated car it helps.. just not a lot. Is it worth spending almost $1000 for the part, the tuning equipment and software, as well as a trip to the local dyno to get 3hp at the wheels? You be the judge of that.. but I'm sure the answer will be clear.


Personally, I feel the intake is a great first mod.. its easy, usually pretty cheap, sounds good, doesn't require tuning, and easy to undo if you change your mind about modding.

A nice simple first project. I say if you want to get into modding, start with the intake.
my advice though: keep ALL your stock parts. One day, you may want to go back. Without stock components you lose all your aftermarket stuff that you could remove and sell to get a little back.

The intake is more of a way to break into modding. You find that working under the hood of your car makes you feel manly and you really like doing it.

So, you keep going.

Super cheap intakes are great!

The idea of a FAI is to use the natural forces that are at work as the car moves down the road to fill the filter canister with as much air as possible, for the engine to breathe at it's leisure (not labor!). And, yes... every 10* drop in air drawn in nets a 1% increase in hp. That may not seem like much, but in these cases every lil' bit helps. And besides... we're talking about buildin'-up FWD econo-boxes here, not show-stoppin' street-machines! I mean, what hottie are you trying to impress? Even they know: If it don't drive the rear-wheels, it's just transportation.

At least you'll see an increase in fuel mileage with what I'm suggesting. Which is something everyone is looking for these days...


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

dont listen to the first 4 or 5 posts. they seem like they know less than what you say u know


Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.

Toronto Cavalier wrote:dont listen to the first 4 or 5 posts. they seem like they know less than what you say u know

Experience teaches much. What experience have you?


Go beyond the "bolt-on".