Hey guys I'm new to the forum and I am in the midst of putting on a new header and downpipe on my 2200 motor. As I was taking off the stock header and downpipe I went under the car to unbolt the downpipe and realized that the rest of the downpipe is welded into the catalytic converter. So instead of cutting the pipe off a few inches before the catalytic converter to make the downpipe fit with a clamp or something, I have decided to just buy the remainder of the exhaust parts which is a new catalytic converter and the catback part of the exhaust. Also, my stock exhaust is all rusted and hanging very low to the ground especially since my car is lowered too which doesnt help, so I figured that I would just replace it all anyway for the reason too. I know the 2200 motors are designed for 2.25 inch piping when you change the exhaust and plan on running naturally aspirated but I was wondering how big is the diameter of the stock piping? Also, instead of using the catalytic converter could I use a test pipe instead? Would it be possible to use 2.5 inch piping for my exhaust instead of 2.25 because the only exhaust piping I can find on eBay are only 2.5 inch. How much performance would I lose by going with 2.5 inch piping instead of 2.25? I am on a tight budget right now so I have to get whatever I can off eBay. I know the words performance and tight budget don't mix well but oh well.

Which one of these exhausts would fit best for the remainder of my exhaust for my 2200 motor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330321596816
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220374706622 (I know the muffler tip on this one is quite ricey but I can always change the muffler later on.)
What is difference between these exhausts because I noticed the piping and hangers are significantly different. I hate how generic eBay can be with car parts. You rarely ever see any auto parts on eBay that list the EXACT year or motors that the parts will fit.

Would this catalytic converter or test pipe fit with my exhaust?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330318177045
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250389403437

And finally, I know this is a lengthy post and I apologize, but my final question to you guys is could I need to bolt all these remaining parts for my exhaust from my downpipe back to the end of the car with clamps and bolts or would I need to weld everything? What would you guys recommend? Thanks to anyone in advance for your input or advice.

stock exhaust is 1 and 7/8". Running a 2.5" system won't be that bad. I wouldn't recommend those cheap eGay exhaust parts but thats just me. You get what you pay for in many cases and it applies here. If you run a test pipe, your exhaust sound will be significantly changed. Louder and much more raspy. If you do use a fart can, which it seems you might, the exhaust will be brutally loud and IMO sound like a can of bees. Not a cool sound.

What kind of muffler should I get to make my exhaust sound not so ricey? I definitely don't want a ricey sound. I am going for a deep throaty sound.

Also, what does an exhaust resonator do? I keep hearing about everyone talking about them but I have no idea what they are. Is there an exhaust resonator on my stock exhaust?

a resonator will elminate alot of rasp and loudness from the exhaust, depending on what length you go with. I'd go with 2.25, you should be able to get it locally. High flow cat, and maybe a 12" resonator. For a muffly, use a vibrant or magnaflow or something of the sort, they sound way better than those can style mufflers



2002 Cavalier "LS Sport"

You will need a resonator, I would say 18 to 22" long. I suggest you read all the other threads that have been recently posted about exhaust and then you may find your answers there. The search function is your friend as well.

By a resonator the above posters mean a glasspack muffler. Your car has a stock resonator its the bulge behind the cat. What is does is it resonates the sound in the bulge and reflects the higher frequency sound back and cancels it. I would recommend putting an at least 18" glasspack muffler (look inside and make sure it doesn't constrict). 2 1/4 would be best but i dont think 2 1/2 would make a noticeable difference though. I went with the pacesetter ceramic header, pacesetter catback, magnaflow universal cat and a cheap 18" glasspack, it sounds good but if i were to do it over again i would use a higher quality 22" glasspack. Dont just use a glasspack as a muffler use a larger oval (magnaflow preferably) at the end. Your first time is always a learning experience.

What if I don't put a resonator on? What if I just put on my header, downpipe, high flow cat, and catback exhaust? Will it sound okay or not? And will it pass emissions/inspection without a resonator?

mike hill wrote:What if I don't put a resonator on? What if I just put on my header, downpipe, high flow cat, and catback exhaust? Will it sound okay or not? And will it pass emissions/inspection without a resonator?

Purchase a resonator, the biggest one that will fit. Between 18"-22".
Your exaust system will sound better and you run less chances of being bothered by local authorities.



J-Body Club of Ontario (JCO)

Yes, it will pass without the resonator... But you may grow tired of the "tinny" sound after awhile. The reason the factory put it there in the first place is reduce in-cabin noise to an acceptable tone. Eliminate it & you'll have a high-pitched resonance that'll become annoying & uncomfortable after driving for awhile.

A throaty, deep low rumble is the tone that's most pleasurable to those that enjoy a healthy-sounding exhaust that doesn't become a intrusive nuisance on long trips is what most performance enthusiasts look for in an exhaust note. Using a 18"-22" glass-pack in place of the factory resonator in conjunction with a chambered "turbo"-style muffler is the way to go for it. But don't go for Flowmaster's offerings, as they are just expansion-chamber pieces that sound like a gutted catalytic-converter... and supposedly flow worse than even the stock muffler.

If I may suggest it, Walker's Dynomax is a fairly common (and popular) widely available muffler that's inexpensive, flows well & sounds good. I use one of equal size to the CherryBomb glass-pack on my app, and I'm happy to say that it's spot-on in all terms of performance (quiet & un-restrictive). Such a setup may work well for you, too. Heck... If you really wanna try something, try adding a resonator-style tip after the suggested muffler, even with the glass-pack in-line. This can further fine-tune the sound to be something both quiet & pleasurable, as well as distinctive from all the other copy-cat setups out there.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

So what you guys are pretty much saying is, if I don't put a resonator on my exhaust setup, its gonna be insanely loud and sound really rice? I like the insanely loud part, but not so much the rice sounding part about it.

mike hill wrote:So what you guys are pretty much saying is, if I don't put a resonator on my exhaust setup, its gonna be insanely loud and sound really rice? I like the insanely loud part, but not so much the rice sounding part about it.

If you dont it will sound like shaking a marble in a tin can, trust me iv been there.

I can always just put my header, downpipe, high flow cat, and catback piping on first to see how it sounds and then add the resonator later on if I don't like the sound right?

I was able to fit a 28" resonator under there and a 2.5" exhaust sounds stock under partial throttle.



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mike hill wrote:I can always just put my header, downpipe, high flow cat, and catback piping on first to see how it sounds and then add the resonator later on if I don't like the sound right?

Thats what i did, but it would save time and effort to do it together.

mike hill wrote:I can always just put my header, downpipe, high flow cat, and catback piping on first to see how it sounds and then add the resonator later on if I don't like the sound right?

Yes.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Cool, so I have just one other question for you guys. Is there a certain torque pressure that I need to put on the header and downpipe bolts when I put the header and downpipe back on? I was told that you need to torque down the bolts since these parts come off the block of the motor to prevent them to leak. If so, what is the torque rating or number I need to torque these bolts back down properly?

Oh wait...2200? DO NOT install a 2.5" exhaust system, it's way too big for the 8v engine... you will lose a huge amount of low and mid power, a stock 2200 will rape you untill you get up to higher speeds. Have some experience with this...



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Really? Will it make that much of a difference to use 2.5" piping on my 2200? I mean I know 2.25" is recommended, but is the difference really that big by a quarter of an inch difference? I have a cold air intake on it hooked directly up to the throttle body on my motor too. So that should help compared to a short ram or stock intake system with this exhaust I plan on putting on right?

mike hill wrote:Cool, so I have just one other question for you guys. Is there a certain torque pressure that I need to put on the header and downpipe bolts when I put the header and downpipe back on? I was told that you need to torque down the bolts since these parts come off the block of the motor to prevent them to leak. If so, what is the torque rating or number I need to torque these bolts back down properly?

There is torque specs, but generally I can never fit a torque wrench in there to check...the header you should follow the standard tightening procedure,

Exhaust tightening sequence: (do it medium tight, then go back to #1 and fully tighten in order)... you should retorque them after a few days as they may loosen up a bit...I tighten them up till they don't move, then try another 1/8th turn

-9--5--1--3--7-
-10-6--2--4--8-





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Mike, 2.5" is too big for a 2200, even 2.25" with a highflow cat, the ohv/2200 are sensitive when it comes to the exhaust, I learned this firsthand with my '96.... unless you plan on FI, or very big all-motor buildup you will lose a lot of low end power..if you do city driving, or stop and go expecially... if you don't mind this then go ahead. And it is a huge difference compared to stock, you are moving double the volume of exhaust.



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Well, I already have a cold air intake put directly on the throttle body since I removed the 2200 box. After this header-back exhaust, what else can I do to make my motor a little more quick. Nothing drastic, but what else could I do? I plan to stay all motor. No forced induction for me. (Too much work, haha.)

An intake and header back exhaust will only do so much for these motors. To start making much more power you need to boost or do alot of work on the head and motor. The head is fairly restrictive and the cam is designed for low end torque, fuel economy and emissions. To start making this added power will require a port and polished head, an increase in compression and a cam regrind. Another thing to consider on the 2200, the valve springs are small and can not handle too much more of an aggressive cam and there hasn't been a decent spring tested yet (that's still being made, as now Crane Cams is closed).

So I'm gonna be very slow after I add this headerback exhaust? I might as well just not even do it then right? It sucks though because I already ordered the rest of the parts and they are going to be here in the mail later today...

Slow your roll..as I said in my PM to you and in here, it depends on your driving style, and if you are auto or manual..manual will not be as bad as you can control the gear, auto will be slow off the line... 2.5" will mean lost low end power and move your powerband higher...if you already got the parts then just do it, but keep the revs up... and don't do a highflow cat.



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