Anyone found a fal fan or anyaftermarket that fits a jbody with the space we have?
I say: If the area of the radiator is the same as an 2nd-gen S-truck, do the '88-'95 Taurus 2-spd fan mod. It'll move way more air than any aftermarket setup could, and cost way less!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
i had no problem fitting my 3000cfm fan in my bay..plenty of room...whats the problem ?
I didn't say how do I get more room I said who makes one that will fit.
^Yeah, this is the one I'm running and it works bada$$. Actually I can't really say that since with my Griffin radiator the fan doesn't even kick on anymore...lol. But when I had AC and turned it on it pushed alot of air.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 23, 2009 4:20 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Luis Marroquin wrote:Nickelin Dimer wrote:I say: If the area of the radiator is the same as an 2nd-gen S-truck, do the '88-'95 Taurus 2-spd fan mod. It'll move way more air than any aftermarket setup could, and cost way less!
more on this?
Not much, really... Just find the fan assembly in a 'yard-car (It will have 3-wires going to the motor, and the back of the motor will be very flat)and use whatever you want in the way of control. Just be sure to use heavy-duty relays & fusible-links for the constant 12V+ feed to the relays. Setup the low-speed for regular cooling & the high-speed to work in conjunction with the A/C control. If your car already has a factory single or dual fan setup, just use the relays & links to wire the Taurus fan in. You will need to use some type of mounting... fabricated or otherwise... to keep the fan in place. One popular method is the use of zip-style straps, like the ones found in aftermarket trans-cooler kits.
This is about all I can really tell you in summary, without going into a bunch of detail I can't remember off the top of my head. Try going to
s10planet.com or
s10forum.com (I suggest the first one... I'm a regular member there, and that's where I first heard of it.) to learn more about what's all involved, and how well it works. From what I've read, it's the sweetest deal for the bucks-down whom want max-cooling.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
well i just wanted specs and a little info on it. Im currently running a 16" transcool slim fan on my factory radiator with straight through zip ties and it pulls plenty of air!
Sorry 'bout that... I though I'd just pass-along a li'l "secret" long-known among many other "traditionalist" rodders for those in the "bucks-down" position. I also thought a li'l further about the wiring of one today:
Do you know what a diode is? Do you know how to install one? If not, learn about it before continuing to read further.
The way the 2-spd fan must operate is much like a transmission with multiple forward gears:Even if it's only a 2-spd trans, in order to make use of one of the high gears under it's own power, you must make use of the ones before it. In-that, the fan must be gotten turning on the low-speed first before engaging the high-speed. Why? Here's the scenario: You just get into the car on a hot day with the engine fully cooled-off, and you want to get the A/C going right-away. So you start the engine & just flip the A/C on. In a single 2-spd fan situation, this means the high-speed will by prompted be the low-speed has had a chance to be applied. What results? An overload on the high-speed's constant-feed circuit that "pops" the fuse. How does one prevent that? Install a diode!
How does a diode come into play here? Simple: A diode (as you may know at this point, if you did the research suggested necessary) is a one-way filter for current flow. Since the install of this fan requires two relays, and many of you out there may be relying on aftermarket controllers for automatic fan activation, a diode (of proper rating, of course!) installed between the positive sides of the relays activation circuits that allows flow from the high-speed's "on" circuit to the low-speed's will automatically engage the low-speed fan the moment the high-speed in engaged.
This will prevent the overload had from trying to turn the fan with just the high-speed circuit activated by simultainously activating the low-speed, thus giving the the fan the extra current needed to get it turning from a dead-stop. I also stronglyrecommend wiring-in a diode in-line on the low-speed activation circuit to allow current from it's switching source to reach the relay, but not back-flow from the relay to prevent shorting.
As for the fan's performance itself, lemme share a few testimonies:
In the few apps I've seen the Taurus 2-spd fan installed in, all rave of amazement of how much air the fan moves at low-speed alone. Be it a 4WD S-blazer with an all-stock engine & factory aluminum radiator, or a old-school street-machine with a robustly healthy big-block & a multi-row brass radiator... all sing praises of how with whatever control they installed it with it perfectly maintains coolant at the temperature desired and/or brings it down to very low levels. And how when used in a app with A/C, the "frigid" temps of output found in-cabin from using this fan. Especially in apps where it replaced a factory thermo-clutch'd mechanical fan.
I say screw what the after-market wants for their "second-to-nothing" expensive fans... this is is the deal to have. And the best part: If the motor fails for any reason, you can just go get a new replacement at any auto-parts store for way less than those after-market companies want for just the fan... or controller... alone.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
