So i know the spring just got here, but i was wondering what the repercussions were on running the Tsudo stainless steel header in the winter.
Is it worth the time and effort to go stock every winter?
stainless steel does not rust too easily or at all.
I've run a Pasesetter 4:1 UNCOATED STEEL for 3 Canadian winters and its still in great condition. With that said a stainless header should last longer than the car.
Ba-hahahaha, I would shoot myself in the head if I had to remove my tsuedo every winter
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
LOL
That's great news. Just waiting for the header in the mail now. can't wait to hear it ripp!!!
its not a bad header at all and will be fine for the winter, the only thing i noticed with mine was after about a year its kinda discolored, but still works good
as long as it works, looks won't bother me much.
What size exhaust are you all running? I'm thinking 2.5, because i plan on adding a small dry shot later on
as long as you dont care about looks your good 2 go and im pieceing together a 2.25 exhuast currently, but 2.5 would fine as is or with the dry shot just dont go any bigger unless your going to turbo it
I got a 2.5" and it's great, I didn't lose much low end at all, gained mid to topend... and make sure you print out all the threads in here about installing the tsudo...good advice, or PM me before you install it and I'll gibve you the rundown.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
I will definatley print out those threads. and i will get back to you on some details as soon as i get the header in my hands.
Thanks for the info!
2 Questions
Why Dry shot over Wet?
Why not the OBX header? My buddies bolted on with ease and seems to be great so far
answers:
1. Already own a dry kit, worked well with a 94 prelude srv on 100 shot (i'll only do 25 or 35)
2. More info on Tsudo headers on this site than OBX, and there are easier to locate as well
Questions:
1. Why would you want wet over dry?
2. what does it matter which knock off header I use?
Because wet will keep you from blowing your motor, especially since the eco's stock injectors are maxxed on a stock engine. Lots more oxygen + no extra fuel = BOOM. 2004-up eco pistons have the thinner ringlands too which means they're more prone to cracking if you encounter even a little detonation.
Personally, from experiences I've had with two different ecotec cars, I recommend not using nitrous AT ALL unless you have checked out your power enrichment settings with HPTuners. A lot of 2004+ Eco ecu's don't engage the power enrichment table (when your ecu sees that you have the pedal to the metal and goes to a richer air/fuel ratio) until 5000 RPM +. This is VERY VERY BAD JUJU. It means your car's computer will still be forcing a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio even under full throttle, which is fine on a stock motor, but add nitrous to that and you are getting dangerously lean. Even using a wet setup, we have seen the ecu pull back injector pulsewidth to achieve a 14.7:1 a/f ratio even with 100+ psi of fuel pressue and 440 cc injectors.
Unfortunately, Ecotec electronic controls are not like most sport compacts out there... Most dry setups include a little thingamajig that tricks the fuel pressure regulator into bumping up pressure while using the nitrous so that you won't run lean. On an Eco ecu that hasn't had the settings adjusted through HPT, it just won't work. While using nitrous, you really don't want to be any leaner than 13.5:1, and frankly, thats way leaner than I'd ever go. I'd prefer somewhere in the 12.XX:1 neighborhood. The 14.7:1 or leaner that you will get with a stock ecu and dry kit WILL eventually result in engine failure. Even a wet kit will. So skip on the nitrous until you have someone who knows what they're doing reflash your ecu with modified settings.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Luis Marroquin wrote:stainless steel does not rust too easily or at all.
depends what grade of stainless. your factory exhaust, fuel, brake lines are all stainless and they rust. if its a low end stainless it will rust just not as fast as say mild steel
JBO since July 30, 2001
Oh ya, i'm not planning on running any kind of nitrous until i get my ECU flashed, and i get upgraded injectors and pressure regulator. I only got a dry kit cause my friend sold it to me for $200 with a full bottle. I thought that it was tooo much of a good deal, but if your telling me that i'm safer with a wet, i think i'll put it up for sale and do some more research.
lol! it was like an impulse item!
hopefully be the end of this summer i'll have enough $$$ to get all this done.
Back when I was researching Nitrous, I always though wet was more dangerous since the install is bit trickier and there's more to go wrong, also if something does go wrong a wet kit can toast your engine in seconds, not as easy with a dry kit..but this was on a OHV, so maybe with the ecotec's ecu quirks, the opposite is true
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
FastFireTwoTwo wrote:Back when I was researching Nitrous, I always though wet was more dangerous since the install is bit trickier and there's more to go wrong, also if something does go wrong a wet kit can toast your engine in seconds, not as easy with a dry kit..but this was on a OHV, so maybe with the ecotec's ecu quirks, the opposite is true
You have it backwards. More is prone to go wrong with a dry kit because no fuel is added and the pcm cannot adjust enough for plenty of fuel to be available, therefore detonating and breaking pistons or melting stuff due to the high heat of a lean mixture. On the other hand though, a wet kit supplies fuel in line with nitrous to justify the amount of oxygen that you are injecting into your engine. Although the install is a little trickier like you mentioned, I personally would much rather have too much fuel than having just too much nitrous. Too much fuel will only make you run pig rich for a brief moment but keep the chance of detonation down along with combustion chamber temperatures.
Or the best solution of all- go turbo and don't waste your time with nitrous.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
I have an 04 and have no problems with my A/F ratio while spraying, I have a .002 bigger fuel jet in then whats recommended and run around 12.5ish until 4th gear. But Scarab is correct with his statement as GM made it much harder for us 04+ guys. I must say a wideband is a MUST for bigger shots.
As for the tsudo header, mine looks like death after this past winter. My hood doesn't help any as it allows water to hit the header and leaves funny water spots on it to. I must say that they do polish up pretty good with some good polish and fine steel wool.
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
Who cares about looks... mine looks like crap because it's got copper rtv all over it..as long as it doesn't rust.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
FastFireTwoTwo wrote:Who cares about looks... mine looks like crap because it's got copper rtv all over it..as long as it doesn't rust.
Some of us actually do take pride about how our cars look, obviously you don't.
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
Anything i can do to the header to prevent it from staining?
like wax or sealer?
JoeyDaBomb wrote:FastFireTwoTwo wrote:Who cares about looks... mine looks like crap because it's got copper rtv all over it..as long as it doesn't rust.
Some of us actually do take pride about how our cars look, obviously you don't.
Do you clean all your suspension parts with a toothbrush too?
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Actually I do have pride, just lack of time.. my old sunfire was clean at all times, interior always looked it just came off the showroom floor, engine bay pretty clean most times..I used to wax the car all the time..now I work 50 hours a week and have fiancee and all sorts of other things to do, so just no time.. also, not going to any shows anymore
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
