i just changed my oil on saturday and ever since i have been hearing a weird noise coming from the engine. i switched from regular oil to Mobil 1 synthetic. sounds almost like a small little ticking. my motor only has 102XXX kms. ay ideas?
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
ive heard its a bad idea to switch from regular to sythetic with a lot of mileage/kilometers. although yours isnt really a lot, it's still a lot of time run with regular. your engine has been broken in with regular, now you threw a completely different kind of oil in there.
my guess would be the engine didnt like the change and might have been damaged as a result.
even synthetic oil companies warn of this happening.
I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.
Your supposed to switch over oils over a period of time go from regular to a synthetic blend then to a full synthetic.
*95 Z28 M6* *Free mods* *160 t-stat*New LT1 Crate motor 357*Edelbrock Headers*3" Flowmaster cat back* !CAT
ok so ill get some synthetic blend then. whats a good brand to get?
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
Good synthetics have better detergents in them. This cleans out all the gunk on your valvetrain and can, at times, make things louder and ruin seals. But the seals were already bad, you just cleaned all the gunk out that was keeping the seal. Seafoam can do the same thing.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
I use castrol synthetic blend for my 02 beater cav with 111,000 miles on it.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
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well i think i figured out what the prob was. i looked under the car again and i noticed that one of the 2 bolts that bolts the intake manifold bracket to the block backed out and another bolt that holds the manifold to the bracket was completly backed out. needless to say its getting fixed asap
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
I have had problems with J's with over 75,000km and switching to synthetic...really, the switch should be made early in the engine life, right after the break-in period... I have noticed a bit of blue smoke, high oil consumption and other problems...try a synthtic oil meant for high mileage engines.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
According to actual experts, not heresay, there are no side effects to be experienced from switching to full syn after running an engine on conventional for the start of its life.
Glad to see that your backed out bolts reaffirms the consonant.
I don't give a @!#$ what you say, I base my advice on real life experience, not articles or figures...that's not hearsay...experts are like @!#$s, we all have one.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Hahaha, get offended easy there buddy?
Actually, opinions are like @!#$s. Experts get paid to do research, and publish their findings, those are the only Experts I pay attention to - not dickheads who think they know everything because they've been on a message board for 8 years.
edited: was being too much of an ass.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, May 05, 2009 1:41 AM
KFLO wrote:Glad to see that your backed out bolts reaffirms the consonant.
thanks. Now i think my alternator is starting to @!#$ the bed on me now. starting to hear some alternator whine at idle, and whenever i have my music barely on, when the base hits my lights dim and when i am at idle my rpms drop low and it starts to feel like its going to stall out.
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
Are your battery cables tight?
as far as i know they are.
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
I have had 2 Jbodys now...And changing to a full syn will not cause issues,Nor will it cause seals to leak..My old 3.1 V6 was put on syn at 100 thousand KM,And went happily till 400 thousand...And my 05 Sunfire is now running mobil1 Syn,And it was put on that at 50 thousand..After the first motor Threw a timming chain tensoner..So you will be ok and injoy..Also good choice ont the Mobil1..
Well Jason, I had issues with a '96 OHV engine switching to synthetic oil after 75,000km, so perhaps we should discuss what engine we are talking about.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
well sorry you had a issue..but he is on a ecotec..great motor..so I don't see him having a issue..But hey maybe I am wrong who knows..
FastFireTwoTwo wrote:Well Jason, I had issues with a '96 OHV engine switching to synthetic oil after 75,000km, so perhaps we should discuss what engine we are talking about.
Hmmm... IIRC, the LN2 didn't receive the orificed galley-plug (For the lifter galley, to bleed-off any air that may get trapped in it & cause lifter tick) until the '98 M/Y. So don't be surprised if maybe you just washed loose some sludge that affected them.
Goofy... The LN2's oiling system has lifters as priority, then cam bearing, mains & rods. And yet, they still tend to tick for a bit after cold start-up. Sometimes constantly, some say. Lord help you if metal frags get into the system, like on my '94. It ticked like a diesel full-time until the lifters finally collapsed after about 40,000mi after the contamination. I could kill that idiot mechanic that replaced the chain before I bought it... and failed to remove the old pieces from the pan.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Soon after I switched from dino to royal purple synthetic, the car blew blue smoke, oil consumption went from 1/4 litre between oil changes to over a liter and a half...excess oil was obviously getting past rings and left in chambers and being burned
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Bummer... Did you consider running a li'l thicker oil to try to keep it at bay? It's an old method used with high-mileage engines, so...
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Okay. I just did the math... and since there are two different numbers to go by for the metric-SAE conversion, with two different results from each... I just averaged what your odometer and what your fuel mileage is (from another post we spoke on):
Odometer: 46,593.90149161mi.
Fuel mileage: 57L -> 15.05372258917gal.
550km -> 341.6886109385mi.
9.649122807018km/l -> 22.68mpg.
22.68mpg/city? After all those parts you mentioned? My '94 S-truck with LN2/auto & A/C got 24.5-tankful loop-avg just trying to keep pace with traffic, with just the following:
K&N drop-in replacement.
Splitfire original design forked side-electrode plugs.
Self-fitted MSD Superconductor wires.
And a (Temporarily) gutted catalytic-converter since it was plugged-up & I hadda get it home.
Not to mention 15w-40 diesel-engine oil to keep the pressure up. Why? Because of a bad mechanic that worked upon it under previous ownership, who failed to remove the pieces of the broken original timing-chain set during replacement. Which was picked-up by the oiling system, and necessitated a crank, bearing & oil-pump swap by me when it became mine @ 125,000mi (201,200km) along with fore mentioned cat-gutting, for aforementioned reason. Once the cat was replaced, it got 23.5mpg (9.99375km/l). The engine ticked like a diesel because of the lifters being contaminated by said metal fragments, before they finally collapsed at 165,000mi (265,600km, making the engine completely inoperable.
Gee... I'm not a master-mechanic, but judging by those numbers... Well, to paraphrase an old internet adage: I don't know what you're doing, but... you're doing it wrong!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I have 220,000 km on my car when I switched to synthetic, and shes still going strong at 272,000 km, the only way the synthetic oil will hurt your motor is if there is already something wrong before you do the change as stated above, I work at a dealership where we have had Fords(still figuring how they lasted as long as they did) at 300,000km and have switched to Synthetic oil, and with no problems, I deal with at least 14 cars a day, and seem many have no problems, it all boils down to is how well you take care of your car, motor, and your driving habits in the long term, we had a guy with castrol come in to explain stuff to all the techs in our shop
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen
My girls 00 ford focus stopped ticking after i put mobil 1 synthetic in it. Her car had 126,000 miles with a small tick when we got it . Now at 132,000 with mobil 1 synthetic running in it sense, it sounds great. No more noises, i don't know what caused it but i think it might of been the oil.
FastFireTwoTwo wrote:Soon after I switched from dino to royal purple synthetic, the car blew blue smoke, oil consumption went from 1/4 litre between oil changes to over a liter and a half...excess oil was obviously getting past rings and left in chambers and being burned
I just heard a li'l further note upon Royal Purple from a friend...
Turns out that many were having trouble with the original formula being oddly thin, and slipping past the rings... resulting in oil burning. Perhaps this is what befell you. I dunno... Still seems weird to me.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
