should i expect gains?
i got this oil for my cav .
its 10W30 ROYAL PURPLE said to be the best..
tried it?
You won't see any real gains from it.
How would you expect gains from Oil ?
you would be surprised. a friend of mine put it in his srt 4 and said it was the best money he spent on it.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
Yes you will, lighter wallet.
Lanman31337 -F = fatties = do not want. A little chunk in the junk is ok though.
lol teh bottle said more HP... and m dumaas bolieved it . it ocst over here in puert orico 8.99 the 1/4 i spent total about 36 dollars on oil...
Funny how most don't research things nor ever try the product to see how it actually effects their car or does for the car on a long term trial.
I use Royal Purple in the daily driver and in the Cavy.
In the Daily driver, I went from 38 mpg to 42+ mpg on a very consistent basis with more power to boot.
The same can be said with the Cavy but didn't realize an increase in gas mileage because with it, I don't really worry about it.
The other thing is and I'm sure to get flack with this but with the Royal Purple, you can go 10,000 miles without an oil change.
So take your 3000 mile oil change with Mobil1 oil, times three, and you're sure to see that the sarcasm of being more expensive is a mute subject.
I still change the oil filter every 5000 miles on both of the cars and yes, I only change oil every 5000 miles and if anyone says that's too long, I've got 196,000 miles on the Cavy that's still running strong to this day. The daily driver is the same way with oil filter change at every 5000 miles while the RP is changed every 10,000. The Paseo has 167,000 miles on it and still going strong, all the way to it's 7K redline.
I consider the Royal Purple for n/a engines to be better than Mobile1 but for turbo or forced induction, I'd still recommend the Mobil1 for the heat properties it has over the RP.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Everytime I get an oil change, it always gives me better response.
It is not a gain, it is more like getting your power back.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
Yeah the royal purple and mobile 1 and such seem to give more power because they have less friciton and give the engine more potential to bring out the power it already has.
you got the wrong viscosity.
ho i got the wrong viscocity
you prob didnt. my engine says 5w-30 on the cap, but i think thats way too thin for it, so i use 10w-40.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
10w-30 is what i put in the gtp!
WiGM-Tuners member.
Oedwards wrote:you prob didnt. my engine says 5w-30 on the cap, but i think thats way too thin for it, so i use 10w-40.
So why do they put 5w-30 on the cap and in the owners manual then?
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
Viscosity is chosen because of the bearing clearances engineered into your engine. If they say 30 weight oil, you should be using 30 weight oil. You CAN cause premature wear/failure in an engine by using too thick of an oil. However, the only difference between 5w and 10w is the temperature range its designed to operate in. 5w is better during winters because, for lack of a better description, it gets less thick in extreme cold. 10w gets "less thin" in extreme heat. If you live somewhere like New Mexico or Arizona, there's no reason to use anything but 10w30. In Jersey, PA, and northwards, 5 in the winter 10 in the summer, although 5 is perfectly safe year round.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
To sell you another engine or car. Do you really think they have your best interest in mind? Any dealership? They exist to sell cars, if cars lasted longer there business suffers. They don't make it too obvious, but they want that bastard to fail just after what you would normally expect it too. Why do you expect it to? Cause the last one you had did, and the one before that, and before that. Notice a trend here?
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
JerseyJayLN2 (Scarab) wrote:Viscosity is chosen because of the bearing clearances engineered into your engine.
While I agree there are engineering considerations in the oil viscosity selection process, there's much more to it than that. Consider that the maximum allowable rod and main bearing clearance on the 2.4 LD9 engine is the same as that of the 1960 air cooled Chevy Corvair, and countless other engines designed decades before it. None of the current crop of "energy conserving" oils existed back then and oil engineering to increase fuel economy so manufacturers could meet the government mandated CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) standards wasn't even on their radar. If engine designers only had to deal with longevity, you'd likely see different recommendations. But, they have to balance longevity with economy, which aren't always in mutual agreement with warranty considerations and government regulation.
I haven't seen anything anyone said they're using that would cause any problem.
altho you might not feel it, reduced friction frees up horse power, friction is drag, drag requires hp to overcome, aka a high performance oil like RP says you can gain hp, in reality your just getting hp you already have.
horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.
Multiple dyno test have shown that you will pick up a few HP from running Royal Purple, especially in racing applications. A very good friend of mine went to the School of Automotive Machinists and saw the results on the dyno, they were picking up an average of 10rwhp by running Royal Purple.
97 Cavalier 2.2 5-speed, 88 Camaro IROC-Z 5.7 auto, 91 Firebird Formula 5.7 auto, 88 Conquest TSi 2.6T 5 speed, 93 Silverado ECSB 5.7 auto, 83 Mazda RX-7
Misnblu wrote:
The other thing is and I'm sure to get flack with this but with the Royal Purple, you can go 10,000 miles without an oil change.
Not from my experience, RP seems to break down FASTER then other synthetics, or even dino oil... it made the inside of my engine turn a dark purple, and dark purple sludge... I'm throwing the rest of what I have of Rp in the recycle bins...but it did drop my normal operating temps.
My advice, run Mobil one or something else, Rp is hard to fine, more expensive and there's lots of bad experieinces with it, so a search on google.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Noquarter wrote:Multiple dyno test have shown that you will pick up a few HP from running Royal Purple, especially in racing applications. A very good friend of mine went to the School of Automotive Machinists and saw the results on the dyno, they were picking up an average of 10rwhp by running Royal Purple.
On a 300hp engine maybe, not on our engines... any links to this dyno you mention? It won't give hp, it seems to allow the engine to run slightly cooler., that's about it.. I didn't even notice any fuel economy improvements
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
for now i havnt noticed nothing with the oil ... even though the enginge kinda sounds like kinda less loud for me
I've got nothing to lose in the Cavy since it has that many miles on it.
I figure I'm doing this to see what RP is really all about, just like I did with the Mobil1 product. Btw, I'm very happy with the results of Mobil1 but like I always do in life, I try new things to see if there truly is something that is better out there that can help with the car.
Dom, too bad you had such bad experiences with the RP.
And like with any product, you're going to see alot of negative whilst there also can be tons of positive too.
I'm an optimist so I'm sticking with it until I see some dramatic changes for the worse in either of the two cars I'm using the RP product.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Before you run it, you might want to pull your valve cover and look at the valvetrain... then after running RP for a year, pull it again and see if it changes to a dark purple color inside and has dark purple/blackish sludge (and purple dye in the oil pan).... Good things I noticed were engine seemed to run smoother and less vibes at idle (I have mounts), and operating temp dropped a few needle widths with RP in the engine. Bad, like I said, oil broke down quickly, created sludge inside engine and made it dark purple/black inside.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
